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Everything posted by rutkak

  1. Justin, I think you either have a loose power connection to your ignition coil or you have a short (i.e. 12V hitting a ground) somewhere in your system. The power connection to the coil is a fun one because it comes from 2 sources depending if you are cranking or running, but that would be my main guess. Ken
  2. Gentlemen, Although I respect the heck out of folks that try to stay as original as they can, this is another example of when getting newer technology pays off. I recommend a one-wire, high amp, internally regulated alternator so you never have to mess with stuff like this again. The same thing happened to me 7-8 years ago and I vowed to never let it happen again. Ken
  3. Folks, Another great way of making your dash and headlight brighter is to install a headlight relay. Your headlights pulls juice through the instrument cluster and this keeps the headlight power going straight to the battery. It's an easy install that takes 1-2 hrs depending on how anal retentive you are on wiring. I also removed the blue defusers. LEDs are good but generally don't allow you to dim the lights (may or may not be a big deal). You can get blue LEDs which look pretty close. KR
  4. Sticky valve needle IMHO. I had this one 1 Edelbrock and a Chevy 4 bbl stock 84 Carb. Just take it apart and clean it up. I'd also check the float height. I've had to adjust 3x Edelbrock 1405/1406 out of the box because it was too high and I'd flood when hitting turns. I love Edelbrock carbs personally.
  5. My guess is out of sequence plug wires or massive vacuum leak, (i.e. something is disconnected like the PCV or brake booster. KR
  6. You know, that's just one beautiful car. The wiring near the starter relay looks ... pristine. I bet Midlife is drooling over it. KR
  7. I swear by POR-15. I used in on the floor of my barn-find 70 Mustang. It's great stuff but make sure you get the two prep solutions, I think one is a cleaner and another one is rust converter. Must wear gloves, but that stuff is the real deal. Note that it takes awhile to dry, especially with humidity. I also like POR's body putty. I've used it to fill in floorboard holes and other minor stuff. It dries to a substances harder than concrete and I'm not kidding. POR-15 isn't cheap, but its quality and I swear by it. Note it shouldn't be used in any area that will get direct sunlight and you have to get some other type of POR product if you want to paint it. So I'd use it for floorboards and undercarriage, maybe trunk.
  8. 31 yrs old and just got back from Afghanistan with extra $ in my hand. My first car was almost a 71 Mustang w/351C but my Dad test drove it and said "you ain't getting that car, you'll kill yourself." Years later I picked up a 72 coupe, brown and ginger brown, white top.
  9. Oh yes, roger that. The PO of my Torino routed around the radiator cooler and went with a cheap Haynes after-market cooler....probably because the radiator was shot as it was. I replaced the radiator and added the trans cooler lines back to it so mine routes: Upper AOD (hot out) - inline tee temp - radiator trans in - radiator trans out - B&M trans cooler in - B&M trans cooler out - Lower AOD (cool in). I don't put much stock in the radiator trans cooler and I tend to go with overkill when it comes to cooling and 45 yr old cars especially because I've lived in GA, NC, VA and I'll be moving to TX in about a year. Necessary? Maybe not, but it can't hurt and gives me a lil piece of mind. In my opinion having the pressure gauge is an absolute must. My end pressure is actually 44 psi. It sits at zero in N with zero throttle and immediately creeps up when I give her some gas. -KR
  10. I had 2x Grant Steering wheels that did the same thing. I'll never buy them again. If I popped the horn button on the only way to get it to stay on was to turn it a little so it was crooked. Although they look nice, I'll never buy one of them again. KR
  11. Just my 2 cents, but after owning 4 older Fords (72 Mustang, 70 Mustang, 66 Galaxie and 69 Torino GT) I recommend 15 inch Magnum 500s from CJPony Parts. I recommend the package deal, mounted and balanced with Radial TAs where they come with the center caps and lugs. Just spend the money and they'll look great for years. I've owned plenty of 14x6 Magnums but in retrospect they look like roller skate wheels and MIGHT have fitment issues with aftermarket disc brakes.
  12. I second Mr. 4x4 - change all fluids first. What carb do you have? You might need to lean up the idle and / or metering rods / jets if it's running rich. You also may need to adjust the chock or chock pull-off on start up so that it's getting a proper amount of air. KR
  13. Hello Forum, I'm running a 90 AOD in a 69 Torino with a 351W with mild upgrades. There are three things I have not heard mention in this post and having lived this pain I thought I'd share some AAR notes. 1). I didn't notice in this post any mention of the throttle / TV geometry corrector. I'm running the Lokar throttle cable and AOD cable. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SOX-AS5-05K. 2). Homemade Lokar TV cable helper spring to pull the pressure back to near zero when there is no accelerator. This installs on the trans pan pulling the spring back to zero idle. The Lokar spring is pretty weak so it's fairly common to add a helper spring to pull it back when there is no acceleration. 3). Trans cooler. Going from an FMX to AOD requires some additional cooling (or so I'm told) so add a nice, high-end B&M trans cooler in front of your radiator. My radiator did not have trans cooler provisions in it. A few other notes: 35 psi of pressure was too little on my trans but the most important thing (to me) was to ensure that I immediately got pressure when applying the accelerator. My TV pressure ended up being about 42 psi after tuning. Anything less and it sounds like my trans was grinding when downshifting from 2-1. I added trans temp and pressure gauges in a discreet spot in my engine bay to ensure nothing zany was going on. Any time you adjust the idle you'll need to adjust your TV cable. 1/4 turn on the TV actually goes a long way. No need to burn up a trans. I'd add them in the interior but I don't have space. -KR
  14. Go with dual Flowmaster 40s but make sure you get an H or X pipe in there or the drone at high speeds with give you a headache. -KR
  15. If your fuel gauge is not getting power you can jumper it to the power output of the constant voltage regulator (CVR). I've done this on two 68-69 Torino circuit boards since they are impossible to find in good condition and the power is the outer line which always getting broken over time. You'll need 1/2 of a 9V battery terminal receptacle (Home Depot or Radio Shack) spliced into a ring connector for the fuel gauge power. The 9v battery terminal can be cannibalized from an alarm clock or smoke alarm. Just trace the line from the CVR and it should go to one of the fuel gauge terminals on the board. Only connect the output of the CVR to the terminal. You must have 5V for the fuel gauge or bad things happen. Sounds complex, but it's pretty easy. I'd also get a solid state CVR from CJPonyParts. It's a must have. KR Here's an amazon link of the part I'm talking about. http://www.amazon.com/Pacific-Science-Supply-Battery-Connector/dp/B001F39728
  16. I highly recommend that you add a relayed auxiliary circuit to power additional items. You can certainly tie into existing wiring but I'd be cautious about overloading a circuit or dealing with old wires. I added a Painless Wiring Auxiliary relay circuit to my Torino with great success. It allows you to add multiple IGN-ON circuits and even a few BATT circuits depending on the model. I think I used the Painless 70114 3 Circuit Universal 70 Amp Fuse Block.
  17. That Voltmeter conversion turned out very nice. Impressive. Side note - I vouch for Rocketman Bob at RCCI. The idiot cluster to tach conversion is awesome and WELL worth the money. -KR
  18. Gentlemen, I live in Springfield, VA which is just south of D.C. KR
  19. I had a near identical, but older model in my 72 and my 69 Torino came with a Custom Autosound radio in it. My review: average to below average at best. PROs: Looks stock-ish CONs: $$$ for the money, sound quality is poor, USB quit working after 2 weeks, cheaply made. Recommendation: If you aren't stuck with stock, get the aftermarket 1 DIN panel and get a solid Sony radio for $100. Oh yeah, I'm not kidding - custom autosound really are low quality and have a high failure rate.
  20. I've done the following on a few different cars, but all of these are currently in place on my Torino. a). Removed the blue diffusers (no longer have blue tint) b). Swapped in LEDs, dimmable. c). Added headlight relay d). 100A Alternator On my 72 Mustang I removed the blue diffusers but added little blue autogage covers over the stock bulbs. It brightened it up a bit and left the ability to dim. It also matched the gauges I put in. In retrospect, I recommend (a) and (b) above for a cheap lighting upgrade. You can also get blue LEDs, but I didn't like the tint of blue. © shouldn't be for those without electrical wiring confidence but it was a notable improvement and (d) is the easy but probably won't provide that noticeable of an improvement.
  21. Replacing a sending unit is pretty straight forward, but expect that it won't read accurately when installed. I've put in three of them on different vintage Fords and it's always the same. Naturally start with grounding the wire going to the sending unit to verify FULL. If not, you have a wiring issue. Before you install the gauge check it with an Ohmmeter to verify ~73 on E and ~10 on F. You may have the bend the tabs to get it right. Now fill up with tank with 1/4 tank and check the reading. If it's reading low bend the L shaped float arm down so it reads higher. I'd try it again at 1/2 as and maybe F as well. At some point you'll get close enough to where you are happy with it. Oh yeah, if you replace your tank I recommend one with a drain plug...it makes life sooooo much easier. KR
  22. It's hard to believe so many folks still have the VR in system. First and foremost I'd upgrade to a 100A 1-wire alternator and remove the VR since the newer models are internally regulated. Another way to scratch your itch is to put your headlights on their own relays right to your battery. When I did it I noticed my dash and head lights were incredibly brighter. Well, my headlights were brighter because I put in H4 Halogens but my gauge cluster no longer had juice getting sucked away through the headlight circuit. KR
  23. Very normal. If you upgrade your alternator to a beefy 100A then you definitely won't see this. Most provide 65-75A at idle. Stock alternators are 35A I think. Other possible issues with crazy lights are the VR and 5V CVR in the gauge cluster. Non-dimmable LEDs shouldn't exhibit any fluctuation is light since they are on/off. I doubt dimmable LEDs would be effected either. KR
  24. Distributor - I'd go with Pertronix II or III. I've heard the III series is more susceptible to low voltage though so I'd go with II. I've had a few Billet IIs and haven't had a single problem. Alternator - Powermaster 100A. Water Pump - I got a Cardone high flow for my 70 Mustang and it solved the overheating problems. You can't go wrong with Edelbrock though.
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