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mpbsr

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Posts posted by mpbsr

  1. Never seen one before... 

     

    Nice color - reminds me of my 1970 F250 in "Reef Aqua"... 

     

    There has been also a "Fastback" version of these cars: 

     

    1708.jpg

     

     

    My soon to be wife had a 1975 Datsun Hatchback, auto. Slow as a turtle. But the whole family borrowed it when they needed to move something and it fit in the back.

  2. My 3rd car was a 1975 Datsun B210 5 speed. If I recall about 70hp with 0-60 in about 18 seconds. Had her for 11 years and while not fast she was fun to drive. But I haven't seen one in years as they were rust buckets. 

     

    Out today with the Mrs. and what do I come across. A 1977 Datsun B210. Guy was asking $8500. 

     

    B210.jpg

  3. It will not sell well.. No one wants to be associated with a '4 door' mustang; let alone electric.

    Imagine saying, 'hey, look at my new Mustang'. Ahhhh....What?

    Plus they took the engine out....

    its just not natural...

     

     

    Come on people, while it's not for me. It will be for the family man who desires a Mustang, but has a wife and 2 kids plus a dog.

    • Like 1
  4. Just wonderful, drive 200 or 300 miles and then find a motel with charging stations and plug it in for 6 or 8 hours. After paying $60,000+ for the high performance model. I guess I'm a petrol head, too. Oh, and I forgot to mention the $3,000 or $4,000 battery pack replacement every few years.

     

     

    I seriously doubt that on the battery pack and charging 6-8 hours.

     

    Either way, electric is the future, just change the name from Mustang.

  5. Thanks Geoff. While it has that hue in the images (and I would love a calypso coral one) they are both original factory red. To show the impact of the sun, have attached a shot of my 69 500, which is calypso coral, but appears red depending on the sunlight and background. DSC-0318.jpgDSC-0321.jpg

     

     

    My all time fav car. Just need a black stripe.

     

    Please tell me it's a stick?

  6. I had a blast at the Joe's Bar & Grill Car Show yesterday - Frank even pulled a "Top 50" award (out of almost 90 cars).  My camera battery died about 2/3 of the way through getting pics of all the cars, but my pal Stephen Horton came through with his awesome pics.  Here's a link to his Flickr Photo Album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/stephenhorton/albums/72157711412237693?fbclid=IwAR2JmTqZfH2TQZw-Ciq1tEmNC-0V6y-T06gcXJaIoy-IL0qiNlvqLPrw8Tg

     

    48925958356_cd13a9432c_o.jpg

     

    48925958316_dfa7ac2def_o.jpg

     

    My view for the day:

    IMG_0601.jpg

     

    IMG_0603.jpg

     

    Congrats.

     

    My son was in San Angelo for a short time while in the Air Force.

  7. Wow - that's odd to hear.  I haven't looked for wax in awhile, so I guess I just haven't noticed if paste wax has disappeared or not.

     

    You said 'local auto parts stores,' does that mean "Mom & Pop's Parts," or one of the big box auto parts stores 'local' to you?  I seem to recal O'Reilly Auto Parts having the 'Big 3' (Meguiar's, Mother's, and Turtle Wax) products galore - usually, including paste wax.

     

    If you need something to remove pollution and whatnot, you might consider a 'clay bar' solution - which each of the 'Big 3' have their own products for that, as well.

     

    The reason I haven't really looked for wax in a long time is because I still have something like 3 or 4 partially used tubs of Meguiar's Classic Carnauba & Gold Class Carnauba paste floating around my garage - they all look like yellow grits and smell like industrial-grade bananas (LOVE that stuff).  I had one applicator actually disintigrate on me after sitting so long between the can's lid and the clear 'lid' [for keeping the applicator with the can].  I think I have a bag with a half dozen applicators somewhere as well (sometimes get them in car show goodie bags).

     

    I used to use old, thick bath towels to remove the wax, but I'm digging the Micro-fibre cloths these days.

     

     

    Have fun with it - at least waxing a Jeep isn't all that big of a deal.  I can usually have my CJ-7 done in about 15-20 minutes or so, unless the doors are on, then a little longer.  The Mach 1 takes quite a bit longer.

     

     

    My local shops are Napa, Autozone and Advance Auto.

  8. Hey...I know I'm old, but

     

    I used to wax my cars a lot when I was younger up to around 15 years ago. I would wax them 3-4 times a year and even do friends cars

    because I enjoyed it.

     

    Getting older I guess I got lazier and haven't waxed car in at least 10 years.

     

    I decided it was time to wax my 2003 Jeep TJ as it hasn't been waxed since I bought it a little over 2 years ago. While it looks good (red) up close

    you can tell it needs a good wax.

     

    So being old school head over to two local auto shops.

     

    When did paste wax become obsolete? I found only Turtle wax and Meguires on the shelf. Everything else was a spray on wax. Plus can't find cheese cloth any more in order to remove the wax and buff. Didn't want to try a spray on wax as I felt it wouldn't remove road crap and years of pollution on the body. 

     

    So now Saturday I'm going to be out there with a liquid wax (Turtle) and some cloth designed (not cheese) to remove and buff the Jeep.

     

    Man, I'm old.

  9.  

     I say this because, although mine is not a cassette deck radio, wish it were, the buttons were sticking and then the FM quit. Not necessarily connected issues, but the radio went through a complete rebuild with new capacitors and just about anything else that was soon to quit. The guy did a great job and well worth the 250 bucks Cdn it cost me.

    Just sayin'

    Geoff.

     

     

     

    Since my Stang isn't original and for a $250, I'll replace it with a retro radio that has blue tooth if I can't get that button unstuck.

     Yes, I thought about that option too, but as I had already got 'stung' for 200 bucks for what was supposedly and I quote " Professionally rebuilt" AM/FM Mustang radio, that turned out to have never been opened judging by the amount of crud in there, I decided to keep the radio and have it done by a real Professional. My choice. Because of a 35% difference in currency, a modern replacement retro radio would have cost me quite a bit more and that influenced my choice to rebuild.

    Geoff.

    Sort of reminds me when I had my C4 rebuilt. Having some trouble less than a year later and brought it now to a local shop. It appears whatever the first shop did it didn't rebuild the C4. Had my new shop do it and confirmed no rebuild on the first as I saw the original C4 parts that were worn. Unfort no recourse against the first shop as it was farmed out from a client of mine who owned a body shop. Obvious to say that soured our relationship.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

     

    Boy, glad to be "old school". I tried with a metal hanger to loop it in and to pull out the button. It did work a little but the button went back in.

     

    Then I said WTH and banged on the front of the radio (like we did many years ago with banging on the side of a TV when it didn't work). While the button didn't pop out, the radio starting working again. Guessing the setting for the cassette must have unstuck even with the button in.

     

    So now the radio is working.

     

    Anybody want to buy a NOS cassette of Meatloaf, Bat out of Hell?

  10. Don't know on how to fix radio but to remove it is not that bad.  Should be able to take the 4 screws holding the radio bezel and pull it out far enough to remove radio wiring connector and antenna lead.  Remove knobs and nuts to remove from bezel.  Once out you might be able to get you buttons to pop out.

     

    Good luck.

     Kilgon, you forgot to add "and if that fails, take it to a specialist in vintage car radios and have it rebuilt"

     

     I say this because, although mine is not a cassette deck radio, wish it were, the buttons were sticking and then the FM quit. Not necessarily connected issues, but the radio went through a complete rebuild with new capacitors and just about anything else that was soon to quit. The guy did a great job and well worth the 250 bucks Cdn it cost me.

    Just sayin'

    Geoff.

     

     

     

    Since my Stang isn't original and for a $250, I'll replace it with a retro radio that has blue tooth if I can't get that button unstuck.

  11. When out cruising I figured how cool to play Meatloaf.

     

    So I pick up NOS cassette of Bat out of Hell and popped it in and it was working.

     

    I pushed in the play (rev/fwd) button to pop it out and the button is now stuck into the radio and it sounds like

    it's also stuck either in rev or fwd. I as able to get the cassette out but no luck with getting the button out.

     

    So because of the button being stuck in now the radio won't even play.  I do know that even though not a stock Mustang radio it's been there since 1998.

     

    Any ideas of how to fix or am I now looking at replacing the radio with an aftermarket?

     

    How hard to remove if that's what I need to do?

     

    ThanksRadio.jpg

    Radio.thumb.jpg.864b51a4b8371170bd549eef2e4b8480.jpg

  12. a crate might be the best thing.  I never intend to restore my car, so numbers matching is probably not something I need to be concerned with.  I am building a driver that does what I want. it will always look a bit dusty, but it will rip and not break.

     

    getting a crate engine opens up a whole new bag of questions:  do I stick with a small block so I can keep my existing trans?  if so, do I get a 427?  does a big block make more sense, but prob my current trans won't work.  I want low end torque and hp, so it seems that I need displacement.  like I have mentioned, I don't want to have to have the rpms screaming all the time to build power at 6500. i want good power at 2,000 - 4,000 rpms.

     

    what I do know is that I'm not going to put a $10,000 motor in a $15k car. that will obv limit crate choices

     

    I would agree with lower end torque being more desirable then higher end.

     

    Therefore, with keeping the price within reason, I would go with rebuilding it since you can; plus as you said winter project.

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