wwhite72

I agree doesnt have to be Magnum500's. But if you want aftermarket wheels go with AR Torque Thrust wheels like Frank Bullitt put on his car.

Not the factory style. But the Shelby lip spoiler always looked great on the converts!

Do not spend the bucks for Aussie heads. A while ago it was a bargain upgrade. Now it is not. And stay away from ralph the thief at powerheads. Take a look at Kaase offers. He uses CHI (also from Australia) alum heads with awesome results. There is a 3V version with matching intake that will do EXACTLY what you want. I made 370hp with their 2V's....the 3V's are better. Best and easiest upgrade after headers. Then get the Crane goldrace lifters and manley ss valves and you eliminate most valve train problems. Those roller rockers sound like a swiss watch when the engine is idling. I stuck with hydraulic lifters to avoid adjustment costs. The hydraulic roller cam and lifters work flawlessly and flatten out the torque curve....though, you said you have a 4 speed? You probably want solid cam/lifters for the incredible Cleveland sound when you hold the rpm's up to 5700 for shifts.

If you want the newest designed suspension system made of fordged alum you should buy a new Porsche. All new MOOG parts for our 40 yr old cars are cheap and work fine. And when yer parked at a Publix everyone will walk past the new car and stand looking at yer Mustang and smile as they remember all the times they had fun in a car just like yers!

the 1972 351c 2V that i bought was rated at 177HP when new. After I had the block line honed and bored .04 and had new parts (kept the crank) installed it made 378hp on a dyno and I pulled around 100lbs out from over the front wheels. new wheels are lighter with wider rubber. new brakes stop better. new cooling system runs cooler, new ignition runs smoother with lower fumes, new TC is quicker off the line, new gear set makes engine run in the sweet spot. Unless I opened the hood people saw the 48k miles and swore it was 100% showroom. When I did open the hood nobody ever mocked the CHI alum heads or red MSD ignition box. Unless you have a BOSS 351 time machine a 7173 is never going to be a $50k collector so do whatever you want! except for cragar SS's.....they are for cmaro's.

I believe I have seen at least 4 different vac hose diagrams for 72 351c's depending upon if it is 2v, 4v, auto, manual, ac/non-ac ....and of course if it was a california car. I also dont know if the autolite 2100 on my car even had a dist advance port. I do know that my engine had open chambers and the factory specs for tuning resulted in a car that ran so badly and was so underpowered that the initial advance had to be so low so that it wouldn't ping sitting being driven off the lot, had less than 200hp, and even had to have a throttle position solenoid installed just so you could turn the car off without it running on forever. So while yer 4v CJ may have had hoses going one way, mine was different.

they are not identical, very true. but they have 300w and bolt in real easily. unlike the radio shack 8 track and sanyo amp i wired to the Jensen 6x9's when i was 17!

73pony is right. lots of opinions. I believe GM used ported and Ford used constant and that is why aftermarket carbs have both available. I left both plugged on the Holley and used intake port because it looked original.

casmfg.com check the slidebar radio designed for our cars. I had an earlier version of one of their radios. worked fine. 300 watts total, $300 bucks. wiring matches oem plugs. easy peesy.

"forgotten generation"? he must be confusing the 71-73 with the mustang II gia pos.

dont forget that after you finally finish that 450+HP work of art and drop it in the car...you will find that the trans will never hold up...and the factory brakes are not up to the job anymore...or the springs/shocks for that matter...etc. So the answer to yer question is "around $30k over a 5year period depending on the paint....not including annual registration and insurance fees for a non running vehicle.

I had a disagreement about this issue in the past. I will tell you what I found. The gas cap on my 72 has a rubber gasket and a small hole in the center of the inside of the cap. When the cap was tested by the DMV inspector I was told the cap doesnt hold a vacuum. When the DMV checked on their computer, it showed 1972 gas caps did not hold vacuum and my car passed. Is this a vented cap? Seems to be matter of opinion. Our gas tanks ARE vented because I have changed my tank...and cleaned the tank mounted hole cover and the hose to the chacoal canister which is in the engine compartment. So when fumes coming out of a half full tank on a summer day they go thru the tank vent hose. And the fume canister has an additional hose that goes to the air filter housing thus drawing fumes into the engine and creating a slight vac in the gas tank. But, air is allowed to enter the tank through the gas cap to prevent air lock. So is it a vented cap? It is a cap for a vented tank, that is the reality.

quarter windows?

i believe you will need different mounts. These cars came with choice of 4 blocks and used different mounts for the converts as well.

MY swap from oem 2V to 4V involved the factory intake replaced with an Edelbrock intake, both of which use a vac connection tapped in the forward area of the intake. That was how Ford designed it and always worked just fine with my new Holley and factory dist.