Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    01 Bullitt DHG #2364
    73 convertible ...rust colored


  • Location

dviskoe's Achievements


Apprentice (3/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges



  1. thanks for the encouragement all, here in MN it's -15 today, and the garage has no heat ... so the project is on hold until it's at least mid 40's .... late march prolly ... but I'm excited to get back to it shortly ! Judge, I do have the door frames braced, but bolted to hinges and pin, you think i should weld instead/ too ?? I'll definatly want to talk rocker panels when I get to that point again, the tentative plan is to replace the current inner with steel rectangle tube. drv
  2. that is awesome ... looks like it was ... difficult... to get out, can you tell me what the thickness of that metal was ?? apparently, there is not a reproduction available for these, so I believe I'll be making my own. I did order up 2 from a '68 from Don, he did advise me they'll need to be modified. so far I do know they seem to be thicker material and are wider as well.
  3. That does look nice, i'll give 'em a shout... the extra $1000 may put it out of reach for me now though. does anyone know if a 'universal' 60" will work ??
  4. ok, couple of questions on front suspension. I was leaning towards a 'new' Mustang II 'universal kit: http://www.fulltiltstreetrods.com/hub_to_hub.htm for $1400 ish but when I called the guy said they don't make them for 71-73 ?!? I'm *Assuming* that the universal 60" would work... or, should I stick with my front -end and 'just' do a rebuild ? from Don: http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=2358 for $300 ish I do/would still need a crossmember, the cheapest I can find is welders's series: http://www.welderseries.com/blog/online-store/category/mustang-ii-crossmember-kits/ still is a 'trim to fit', but it looks do able, for $300 ish so $$ -wise it looks like $1400 / $600, but I don't want that to be the only consideration. if I go the complete kit, I get rack steering, disk brakes, and lose that trailing arm in the front (that's good ... right?) I would end up needing to buy / make the shock tower covers, but since mine are shot anyway ... So, I guess the questions are: is MII front end better than ours / what are the differences ? will the kit that works for 64-70 also work in ours ? has anyone done a 60" universal ?
  5. it always seems to come down to time or money (or both). my 1st round of $1000 in parts was a year ago, so 2k dosen't seem too bad. I also have a similar garage situation, I had to kick the wife out of her parking spot to take over. Nearly ended with me sleeping on the couch :) just noticed you're in Duluth ... if you ever come down to the cities, give me a shout, we'll have a beer!
  6. I'm thinking about these on CL: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/pts/4349529918.html (for when the link goes away, they are 'recaro 99-04 SVT seats' $500 seems like a good price for the pair with rails, but how much modification will I have to do ? Wifie says mine have too much mold, and looking at reproduction foam + new covers could easily be that much (more ..)
  7. ... if that's what it's called. the piece between framerail, floor pan and inner fender: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-WomUJ5epsOw/UzoFxFnVVNI/AAAAAAAAAU4/iB8Wd8Plmps/w560-h747-no/14+-+4 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-P6qp0ZWNEW4/UzoFxIKsvII/AAAAAAAAAV0/iF6eC-zUDtI/w560-h747-no/14+-+9 I need them on both sides. Also, I was thinking of replacing the inner rockers with 2"x4" rectangle steel, Ideas, thoughts ??
  8. Being in the same position, if you can do the mechanics, you can get yourself a decent welder, and do that yourself too. frame rails are not that expensive. but it is TIME CONSUMING. my build thread here: http://www.tcstangs.com/forum/showthread.php?125970-73-convert-i-ve-a-Lotta-work-to-do&p=2744096#post2744096 I've 1500 in the car, and $2000 in parts at this point, all four frame rails, both 1/2 floor pans, trunk floor and rt rear 1/4 panel. an extra $700 in steel to nail everything in place. It's been a year almost exactly since i bought mine, and i'm just now ALMOST ready to start assembly. like someone else said, anything *can* be salvaged, it's all a question if that's what you want to do. good luck and keep us informed!
  9. Looks Very Nice, can you post more detail on the front end suspension, where you got the parts, why coil-over instead of stock rebuild? I'm looking to do the same thing, but I need frame rails and a crossmember, that complicates things even more... thanks, Dan
  10. ok, I've taken everyone's advice, and made a chassis table. just got engine pulled and on the table today, tomorrow is clean/pressure wash and REALLY see what all I'll need to replace this winter. (see local mustang thread here ) tomorrow, finish mounting to table square everything up and see what I need to replace this winter. so far I know floor panels and rockers. then to deal with the whole front-end. question for the group on next steps, on the inner and outer rockers, looks like they are 2 pieces, but I cannot find good reference pics, for a convertible (apparently they are different), how do they attach to each other, and how to tie in the convert. floor re-enforcements ? Thanks!
  11. Nice great info on rockers, and seat platforms / lower supports, it the same thing i need to do on mine !
  12. whitesoc, thanks for the link, that was very helpful. I believe that i'll do a door brace similar to what that guy had / did. paul, thanks for the advice, i think i'll go start measuring now ... :) to replace the rockers, (if i'm going to, and it looks like i will need to ...) how much more will need to be tore open to get at where they go? and the frame rails are still being stubborn, i cannot get to the section behind the rear firewall at all, ideas ?
  13. so, where do i brace, and with what i suppose is the important question, and yes, the rockers are rusted to the point where I literally cannot even see where they are supposed to be .. ?!? right now I've most of the vehicles weight on the front tires and 4x4 across the torque boxes, but since i'm replacing the torque boxes/frame rails, where's the next good spot for the weight of the read (not that there's much left ...
  14. Hello all, replacing frame rail on my '73 convert, and have a few questions for the group. I'm replacing both rears, but I plan on doing them one at a time. Then the trunk floor, and both full floor plans. the questions start with how to get the frame rails out. this first pic is of the trunk floor, and there's a 'tray' where the convert motor sits on, but it creates a triangle of sheet metal enclosing in the frame rail. is there a way I can get to the spot welds without taking any of these other parts out as well ? the second pic is of where i'm currently supporting the car ... on the frame rail. since this is SO rusty, where else can/should I try to support the car at ? the inner rocker panel is so rusty as to not exist, do I replace it before or after the frame rails are in? I'm a little worried about taking too many parts off at the same time and loosing the structure. I've a few more too, like the rear of the frame rail ties into the trunk, and bumper supports into the tail panel. there's a piece that goes across that the tank straps slide into. But i cannot find that piece available anywhere, can i just make it ?? let me know what you guys think!
  • Create New...