sdstang

That was it. Thanks Don!!

I want to remove the lower stud to my fuel pump it it is threaded to apply sealer to treads. I didnt want to try to unthread it if it is a compression stud. Does anyone know if it threads out? Thanks for any help. image upload

Is this the one you are running? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bra-1648/overview/make/ford Yes it is, very good pump for the price. Thanks -Jim

Is this the one you are running? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bra-1648/overview/make/ford

I finished my restoration last year and haven't put but 700 miles on the car. I replaced the water pump with a refurbished WP from cardone I think. Well I dusted it off and went to take for a spin and started leaking coolant out the weep hole. Not sure if anyone has any recomendations. Its an AC car but I don't think that matter. Its such a pain to replace I don't want to take a chance with cardone but want to keep it looking somewhat stock. Also I'm very concerned about not disturbing the timing chain cover. Any suggestions there? Thanks for any input. Jim

It took me a long time to find good panels. I had to get them from two sources because a lot of times the way they park the cars one side will be trashed in the other will be okay. A few guys have used the aftermarket ones but they look like aftermarket ones.

Here you go: They are called Shock Tower Brace Here's a link but I would get used OEM ones. Also I added sub frame connectors on my vert and it really stiffened thing up. https://www.cjponyparts.com/shock-tower-brace-pair-1971-1973/p/STB71/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAjO_QBRC4ARIsAD2FsXNSYsmQ5zopef2TFIX5vV-pk0UvSmIZBGtf41SAGQV2NvPiTmXnybMaAosgEALw_wcB

I had the same problem with mustang market panels. I tweaked them over and over and took off material to try to do the best I could but they're still not great. I guess it's the cost of aftermarket but as a whole the car looks really good and I don't think people notice that closely

The last thing I have left to do all my car is hook up the AC system. as with most of the car I'm replacing most of the AC system except for the evaporator which I had pressure tested and is still good. I'm doing the conversion and wondering if I need the quick disconnects on the hoses as I'm thinking about just going with one line. Classic Auto Air doesn't advertise it but they'll make a single line. my question is is how important is it to have the quick disconnect and what was it for?

I have the red one with the red interior. Fully restored and I paid $75,000 for it. Few things restored incorrectly, but nothing that I can't correct. Nice! :D

I remember similar one in Scottsdale several years back for about the same price. I'm wondering if this is the same one. The restoration will cost you 50 Grand and that's what you doing a lot of the work yourself so is the car worth 100k. They had one at auction serval years back that was red with red interior and it didn't sell with a bit of 72k or so. I remember it being thoroughly clean and certainly drivable. Anybody know the number on these things when they're completely done?

Thanks Chris

Ok here's my submission pics. Would be an honor to make the calendar so Im throwing the kitchen sink at it. Sending high res to email how to upload images

Ill get better pics today. finished resto not to long ago upload temporary image

I have my ram air all hooked up other then where the final hose connect. There are two vacuum trees. One off of the intake manifold and the other on the firewall that the canaster connect to. Can I connect the ram air off of the firewall tree? Thanks Jim