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Everything posted by sdstang

  1. I want to remove the lower stud to my fuel pump it it is threaded to apply sealer to treads. I didnt want to try to unthread it if it is a compression stud. Does anyone know if it threads out? Thanks for any help. image upload
  2. Is this the one you are running? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bra-1648/overview/make/ford Yes it is, very good pump for the price. Thanks -Jim
  3. Is this the one you are running? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bra-1648/overview/make/ford
  4. I finished my restoration last year and haven't put but 700 miles on the car. I replaced the water pump with a refurbished WP from cardone I think. Well I dusted it off and went to take for a spin and started leaking coolant out the weep hole. Not sure if anyone has any recomendations. Its an AC car but I don't think that matter. Its such a pain to replace I don't want to take a chance with cardone but want to keep it looking somewhat stock. Also I'm very concerned about not disturbing the timing chain cover. Any suggestions there? Thanks for any input. Jim
  5. It took me a long time to find good panels. I had to get them from two sources because a lot of times the way they park the cars one side will be trashed in the other will be okay. A few guys have used the aftermarket ones but they look like aftermarket ones.
  6. Here you go: They are called Shock Tower Brace Here's a link but I would get used OEM ones. Also I added sub frame connectors on my vert and it really stiffened thing up. https://www.cjponyparts.com/shock-tower-brace-pair-1971-1973/p/STB71/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAjO_QBRC4ARIsAD2FsXNSYsmQ5zopef2TFIX5vV-pk0UvSmIZBGtf41SAGQV2NvPiTmXnybMaAosgEALw_wcB
  7. I had the same problem with mustang market panels. I tweaked them over and over and took off material to try to do the best I could but they're still not great. I guess it's the cost of aftermarket but as a whole the car looks really good and I don't think people notice that closely
  8. The last thing I have left to do all my car is hook up the AC system. as with most of the car I'm replacing most of the AC system except for the evaporator which I had pressure tested and is still good. I'm doing the conversion and wondering if I need the quick disconnects on the hoses as I'm thinking about just going with one line. Classic Auto Air doesn't advertise it but they'll make a single line. my question is is how important is it to have the quick disconnect and what was it for?
  9. I have the red one with the red interior. Fully restored and I paid $75,000 for it. Few things restored incorrectly, but nothing that I can't correct. Nice! :D
  10. I remember similar one in Scottsdale several years back for about the same price. I'm wondering if this is the same one. The restoration will cost you 50 Grand and that's what you doing a lot of the work yourself so is the car worth 100k. They had one at auction serval years back that was red with red interior and it didn't sell with a bit of 72k or so. I remember it being thoroughly clean and certainly drivable. Anybody know the number on these things when they're completely done?
  11. Ok here's my submission pics. Would be an honor to make the calendar so Im throwing the kitchen sink at it. Sending high res to email how to upload images
  12. Ill get better pics today. finished resto not to long ago upload temporary image
  13. I have my ram air all hooked up other then where the final hose connect. There are two vacuum trees. One off of the intake manifold and the other on the firewall that the canaster connect to. Can I connect the ram air off of the firewall tree? Thanks Jim
  14. [/url] get picture url I purchase the hose that runs from the fuel Vapor canister to the air cleaner but not sure where to get the hhose clamp/clamps
  15. Thanks everyone for their input. The trick was to use a laser. Came out perfect.
  16. I'm installing my side stripes and i am using a laser to run a straight edge across the car to place a tape line. As I lay out the stripe i see it tappers narrower as it goes back. I cant tell is the top is straight and the bottom is tapper up as it goes back, the other way around, or both the top and bottom tapper towards the middle as it goes back. I figured if the top was straight I would use the laser to place the straight tape line on the top of the decal. Any input would be appreciated.
  17. +1 I'm just finishing the installing a Robbins top. The EZON that I took off is better quality and fitment. Plus it's cheaper.
  18. I had a pretty new EZON top on my car but doing a color change to black. I found the ezon to be a nice fit and better quality then the Robbins which cost more. 1. the marks for the rear tac stripes where way off. EZON where correct 2. plastic zipper vs. EZON metal. 3. Zipper section that staples to rear bow is one ply vs. two ply on EZON. This will tear easier at staples. Just my 2 cents. I just have the rear window and bow pads on. Will let you now more on the rest after install but I would save the money and by EZON.
  19. Don, You have been a life saver throughout my whole build. I'm a perfect example of why you want to start with an unmolested car if your going to do a ground up restoration. I will email you. -Jim
  20. well that sucks. David any chance you have a spare parts car?
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