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mjlan

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mjlan last won the day on November 7 2019

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About mjlan

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 J Code Mach 1
    1972 H Code Mach 1

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  • Location
    SE MI
  • Region
    Northeast

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  1. I have been trying to figure out what the 'SPEC' date code on CJ/ SCJ heads means. What I have come across is not consistent. Theory #1 is that 'SPEC' were early heads. If this is the case they would be on early '70 MY engines (so engines with '69 casting dates and build dates) as the first CJ's were in the Torino line. I think this is unlikely. Theory #2 is that the 'SPEC' dates codes were for SCJ heads that were earmarked to get guide plates. This seems to me more likely as it would indicate something different in the head casting process. But I don't think there is a difference in the head itself between a non-adjustable CJ head and an SCJ head that had non-shouldered studs and guide plates. If you have confirmed that the block is indeed a four-bolt main block and the heads are 'SPEC' date codes to me that indicates an SCJ engine, not a CJ. What type of camshaft is in it? If you've had the intake off, any chance you have the block casting date? I'm always interested in engine dating of possible original engines. My J-code engine is long gone and shopping for parts is more rewarding when you can find stuff with dates that possible match what would have come originally.
  2. Sorry, just looked at this, below is the rod: https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=2488 and these I think are the bushings: But it looks like Don doesn't have them at the moment
  3. Don- it is my understanding that sequential numbering is per assembly plant restting after the model year, which was why I asked if Metuchen (or whatever plant 'F' is) built other platforms. If I understand it correctly, the only two options for Metuchen would be 1F1xxxxx for Mustangs (all sequentials start at 1 as the sixth digit) or 1F5xxxxx for a Cougar as Mercury cars at that plant started at 5xxxxx. And I'm assuming that only Mustangs and Cougars were building there fo rthe 71 model year... I can't remember if Dearborn is F or R. Its one of those two... But, if there was another platform building at 'F' for the 71 MY, then its possible that the engine block was from a different car line. The block info (partial VIN and engine build date) only pertains to the block- it could have been built into a CJ-spec engine after the fact. To support that this engine is as it rolled of the assembly line the casting dates of the other parts should pre-date the engine assembly stamping by 6-12 weeks (that's a rough time frame).
  4. I've been looking at this and trying to figure out why the four partials submitted didn't work. F is Metuchen right? Did Metuchen / Edison ASM just build Mustangs and Cougars or other platforms as well? What is the engine build date code? Should be stamped on a pad on the passenger side front block face, up by the timing cover and cylinder head.
  5. I would check the rod that goes from the pedal to the z-bar. The end that rides in the Z-bar has a little plastic bushing that wears out and then the same thing happens. The link and bushings aren't too expensive and easy enough to change at the same time...
  6. That is a good question. I would assume that the '71 door will have two bolts and the '73 door will have one...
  7. Late Deluxe top, late Standard bottom Early top late bottom
  8. The latch mechanism that bolts to the door inner is different- the deluxe handle is lower on the door so the deluxe latch mechanism has an added tab spot welded to it to lower the handle position. Also, there are early and late latches. Early cars have two bolts, later cars have one bolt, the rear edge of the latch has a tab instead of a bolt that slides under the door inner sheetmetal. I think I have a photo somewhere of the difference as I found this out the hard way...
  9. One of my winter '20-'21 projects is to get my new re-pop door panels installed. The original watershield on my driver's door is gone and the passenger one is in bad shape so I got some repro ones. What have others used to stick these to the inner door? Looks like the originals were stuck on with black strip caulk or some type of non-hardening rubber or urethane sealant. Anybody care to recommend a product?
  10. I installed a late model 5.0L and T-5 into a 72 that had a 302/ 3-spd. I used the 5.0L bellhousing and a cable conversion kit from Modern Driveline. I can't remember what I did for a trans cross member but there are more options for this now vs. when I did the swap. I am not sure about the differences in 71-72 vs. 73 engine mounts.
  11. The spring should not contact the car anywhere. Is the spring sitting in the lower seat correctly, as the tangent tip up against the stop on the lower perch? Most of the time coil springs will just sag, but a natural consequence of this loss of free height is more coil-coil contact which can be heard if its bad enough. If the 'boing!' noise you are hearing is something you can feel as well my guess would be that the spring is mis-located on the upper or lower seat somehow, and is rubbing on the body or a fastener inside the tower. I have seen times were a bolt is run into the tower and is too long and touches the spring...
  12. There are others out there but Tire Rack does not classify them as 'Performance All Season,' they are classified as "Standard Touring All Season.' These other offshore options (Hankook for one) only offers RWL in some of the 15" sizes, not all.
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