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mjlan last won the day on November 7 2019

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About mjlan

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 J Code Mach 1
    1972 H Code Mach 1


  • Location
    SE MI
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  1. It looks like the seal isn't installed correctly in the B&W photo, look at the front of the filter housing relative to the AC hose bracket. Here is a pic from my stash stolen from Ebay or other source of a late 71 M-code with AC, I don't see any glaring non-stock parts here:
  2. NA market vehicles are built in MX at the plant that used to build Focuses I believe. China is production location for the Asia market most likely.
  3. My opinion is it depends on what other modifications (if any) have been made to the engine and what one's goals are. If you are running a stock-ish engine then I don't think the expense and install time is justified. But, if the breathing on the intake side has been improved then the OE manifolds are going to be limiting air flow out of the engine. It is also possible to choose the wrong header- a 2" primary header is way overkill for most street engines... Headers will deteriorate faster than manifolds, hang lower, interfere with more other stuff in the engine bay and are noisier. Depends on what else is done to the engine.
  4. Hey Bill- I have no idea what that tool is made for but it is one of the handiest tools that I have! Had a buddy give we one years ago!
  5. 245/60R15's on 15x7's, backspace is about 3.25". I get some contact at the lower valence corner on the right side when turning left. I haven't driven much with these and it only happens at close to full lock on the right side. If I understand it correctly, increasing the backspace from my 3.25" to your 4" is pulling the rim/ tire inboard, which should give more clearance where I am having the issue. I have another pair of wheels that have about 3.75" of BS so I will probably swap wheels over the winter.
  6. Finally got the exhaust built, I got lazy and just ended it at the rear axle. It's 3" so not much quieter than open headers Once I got the exhaust on I could hear that the rocker arms or VS retainers were hitting the valve covers so I had to put these on. I was hoping for a more stealthy, stock look but that's out the window now And a shot with the new wheels. I have a pair of black 15x8's for the back (those are the 14x7's with no caps/rings) but I haven't dug them out.
  7. Hey Chuck, I bought a pair of these Hankooks from Tire Rack because they had white letters: I haven't put any miles on them yet but they were $110 ea. for 245/60R15s...
  8. In my experience if the valve spring open pressure is too low you would know it- not only would it show up on the dyno plot as a more drastic drop in power as Chuck mentioned, but you would probably also feel it in the seat-of-the-pants dyno. The car will fall on its face like its on the rev limiter... Dumb question: are you getting full throttle? I know this sounds silly but I suspect with your torque numbers you have traction issues, and its tough (for me anyway) to get to 5k+ RPM on the street at full throttle in a gear that won't blow the tires away...
  9. I'd be curious to see A/F ratio along with the power. Can the FITech datalog? Can it log fuel pressure? I agree that there appears to be something that's holding your combo back above ~4500 RPM. Air filter/ cleaner assembly too restrictive, fuel delivery, injector capacity, something like that perhaps?
  10. Good info here. One thing that I would point out is that there are versions of the full length floor panels that have the bottom of the firewall/ toe board as part of the floor pan. If this is left on it makes the replacement obvious and gives it a non-factory look. If the bottom flange of the firewall/ toe board is damaged it makes the repair a little more complicated. When I did mine I messed it up in the rear footwell because I wasn't paying attention to how flat or square the bottom of the footwell was to the rocker. If I were to do it again I would clamp a section of tubing or piece of wood across the bottom of the car so that you can set the rear footwell bottom at the same height, side-side. Mine is at the right height on the rocker side but slopes up as it goes across the car to the trans tunnel. It isn't obvious but once I noticed it I keep noticing it.It hasn't bothered me enough to fix it....yet....
  11. As others have said its probably ok if it wasn't under load. Water pump seals don't like to run dry though. If there wasn't enough residual coolant in the system I would guess that maybe your friend shortened his WP life by a few miles.
  12. Hmmm, I'm not 100% sure on a 2V. Below is the 2V 351C that was in my 72, are the things I'm pointing to the bowl vents?
  13. Me too, white or gray instead of black?
  14. I did get the engine changed, but the car has sat since then. I was hoping to have it out this year but the season is fast disappearing. I'm stalled at getting an exhaust built which seems lame now that I'm typing it... Updated engine I also found a pair of old school wheels (they are ET's) for the front since I wanted a change. I have a pair of 15x8 steel rims for the back.
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