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mjlan last won the day on November 7 2019

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About mjlan

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1971 J Code Mach 1
    1972 H Code Mach 1


  • Location
    SE MI
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  1. Finally got the exhaust built, I got lazy and just ended it at the rear axle. It's 3" so not much quieter than open headers Once I got the exhaust on I could hear that the rocker arms or VS retainers were hitting the valve covers so I had to put these on. I was hoping for a more stealthy, stock look but that's out the window now And a shot with the new wheels. I have a pair of black 15x8's for the back (those are the 14x7's with no caps/rings) but I haven't dug them out.
  2. Hey Chuck, I bought a pair of these Hankooks from Tire Rack because they had white letters: I haven't put any miles on them yet but they were $110 ea. for 245/60R15s...
  3. In my experience if the valve spring open pressure is too low you would know it- not only would it show up on the dyno plot as a more drastic drop in power as Chuck mentioned, but you would probably also feel it in the seat-of-the-pants dyno. The car will fall on its face like its on the rev limiter... Dumb question: are you getting full throttle? I know this sounds silly but I suspect with your torque numbers you have traction issues, and its tough (for me anyway) to get to 5k+ RPM on the street at full throttle in a gear that won't blow the tires away...
  4. I'd be curious to see A/F ratio along with the power. Can the FITech datalog? Can it log fuel pressure? I agree that there appears to be something that's holding your combo back above ~4500 RPM. Air filter/ cleaner assembly too restrictive, fuel delivery, injector capacity, something like that perhaps?
  5. Good info here. One thing that I would point out is that there are versions of the full length floor panels that have the bottom of the firewall/ toe board as part of the floor pan. If this is left on it makes the replacement obvious and gives it a non-factory look. If the bottom flange of the firewall/ toe board is damaged it makes the repair a little more complicated. When I did mine I messed it up in the rear footwell because I wasn't paying attention to how flat or square the bottom of the footwell was to the rocker. If I were to do it again I would clamp a section of tubing or piece of wood across the bottom of the car so that you can set the rear footwell bottom at the same height, side-side. Mine is at the right height on the rocker side but slopes up as it goes across the car to the trans tunnel. It isn't obvious but once I noticed it I keep noticing it.It hasn't bothered me enough to fix it....yet....
  6. As others have said its probably ok if it wasn't under load. Water pump seals don't like to run dry though. If there wasn't enough residual coolant in the system I would guess that maybe your friend shortened his WP life by a few miles.
  7. Hmmm, I'm not 100% sure on a 2V. Below is the 2V 351C that was in my 72, are the things I'm pointing to the bowl vents?
  8. Me too, white or gray instead of black?
  9. I did get the engine changed, but the car has sat since then. I was hoping to have it out this year but the season is fast disappearing. I'm stalled at getting an exhaust built which seems lame now that I'm typing it... Updated engine I also found a pair of old school wheels (they are ET's) for the front since I wanted a change. I have a pair of 15x8 steel rims for the back.
  10. Lots of good info above! One thing that I did on my last one that seemed to help it start quickly is fill the float bowls of the carb with gas ahead of time so you don't have to wait on the mechanical pump. I used a nozzle from an RTV tube as a funnel. Good luck!
  11. If I had to guess that looks like the outlet or bypass connection nipple that sits in the block. Someone maybe knocked it into the block by mistake when trying to change it. Probably not hurting anything other than water flow. If your cooling system is healthy (pump, pulley ratios, hoses, radiator not blocked etc.) then the low speed cooling issues are fan/ shroud related. If the temp drops when you are at speed, that indicates that the system can reject enough heat with more airflow across the rad. Confirm that your thermostat matches the seat in the block. Also, if you are using the factory gauge as your indicator I would get a second opinion- the OE gauge is a vague indicator of what's going on at best.
  12. Welcome! It is always a daunting task to put something together that you didn't take apart! I think you have a good process list there, my only suggestion would be to work from the top down. That way nothing will drop or potentially damage the underlayment or carpeting if you are working on the headliner or something messy up high. So: 1. Remove the old tar(?) mats 2. clean floor, do anything messy (wire wheeling sanding, etc.) 3. clean roof, prep for insulation 4. put insulation on the roof 5. Install the new roof headliner 6. Install sail panels and misc trim that helps keep the headliner inpplace 7. install asphalt membrane across the entire floor 8. Install insulation (fabric) on top of the asphalt mat 9. Put in the floor mat 10. Install the side panels and misc trim that helps keep the floor mat in place (?) 11. Seats, belts, center console and stuff like that Hopefully others have some suggestions or point out better order of things than I have...
  13. I have been trying to figure out what the 'SPEC' date code on CJ/ SCJ heads means. What I have come across is not consistent. Theory #1 is that 'SPEC' were early heads. If this is the case they would be on early '70 MY engines (so engines with '69 casting dates and build dates) as the first CJ's were in the Torino line. I think this is unlikely. Theory #2 is that the 'SPEC' dates codes were for SCJ heads that were earmarked to get guide plates. This seems to me more likely as it would indicate something different in the head casting process. But I don't think there is a difference in the head itself between a non-adjustable CJ head and an SCJ head that had non-shouldered studs and guide plates. If you have confirmed that the block is indeed a four-bolt main block and the heads are 'SPEC' date codes to me that indicates an SCJ engine, not a CJ. What type of camshaft is in it? If you've had the intake off, any chance you have the block casting date? I'm always interested in engine dating of possible original engines. My J-code engine is long gone and shopping for parts is more rewarding when you can find stuff with dates that possible match what would have come originally.
  14. Sorry, just looked at this, below is the rod: https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=2488 and these I think are the bushings: But it looks like Don doesn't have them at the moment
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