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Everything posted by mjlan

  1. That is a good question. I would assume that the '71 door will have two bolts and the '73 door will have one...
  2. Late Deluxe top, late Standard bottom Early top late bottom
  3. The latch mechanism that bolts to the door inner is different- the deluxe handle is lower on the door so the deluxe latch mechanism has an added tab spot welded to it to lower the handle position. Also, there are early and late latches. Early cars have two bolts, later cars have one bolt, the rear edge of the latch has a tab instead of a bolt that slides under the door inner sheetmetal. I think I have a photo somewhere of the difference as I found this out the hard way...
  4. One of my winter '20-'21 projects is to get my new re-pop door panels installed. The original watershield on my driver's door is gone and the passenger one is in bad shape so I got some repro ones. What have others used to stick these to the inner door? Looks like the originals were stuck on with black strip caulk or some type of non-hardening rubber or urethane sealant. Anybody care to recommend a product?
  5. I installed a late model 5.0L and T-5 into a 72 that had a 302/ 3-spd. I used the 5.0L bellhousing and a cable conversion kit from Modern Driveline. I can't remember what I did for a trans cross member but there are more options for this now vs. when I did the swap. I am not sure about the differences in 71-72 vs. 73 engine mounts.
  6. The spring should not contact the car anywhere. Is the spring sitting in the lower seat correctly, as the tangent tip up against the stop on the lower perch? Most of the time coil springs will just sag, but a natural consequence of this loss of free height is more coil-coil contact which can be heard if its bad enough. If the 'boing!' noise you are hearing is something you can feel as well my guess would be that the spring is mis-located on the upper or lower seat somehow, and is rubbing on the body or a fastener inside the tower. I have seen times were a bolt is run into the tower and is too long and touches the spring...
  7. There are others out there but Tire Rack does not classify them as 'Performance All Season,' they are classified as "Standard Touring All Season.' These other offshore options (Hankook for one) only offers RWL in some of the 15" sizes, not all.
  8. https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=3299
  9. I have never seen a roof that bad before, wow. Seems like you made out ok!
  10. If you haven't had an alignment in a while I would suggest that before changing any parts. Our cars were designed a long time ago- tires are different now, Adding more + caster will help reduce steering sensitivity.
  11. I've had good luck with Champion, using one in a Dodge that I purchased on Ebay from a popular seller.
  12. That is my understanding as well- hot fluid in the top, cooled fluid out the bottom...
  13. Where'd the cable break? Repop cable? Glad to hear it was a relatively minor issue!
  14. Hey Ray, Not sure about trim ring P/N's, but I do agree that there are two different 14" trim rings- a thinner version for the 14x6" wheels and thicker ones for 14x7" wheels. Not sure what dictated the different wheels unless it was only what tires or Comp Suspension or some thing. Secluff?
  15. I had this happen to me using a high-volume pump. Last time I used a high-volume pump. I would get hold of Scotty at Parkland Performance Auto and have him set you up with a new distributor. He will set up the advance curve for your engine combination. He could probably also double-pin the drive gear for you but you would have to confirm as I am just guessing on that one: http://reincarnation-automotive.com/
  16. Usually the filter is changed with the oil. If you want to be super-anal you can add some new oil to the new filter before you spin it on, but on most Ford V-8's the filter is at an angle, so if you overfill the filter you end up making a mess with new oil... So if you didn't change the filter it would have been full of old oil still. If you added three quarts of new oil I would still expect you to be low by at least 1/2 a quart. I do basically the same thing as Steve when I change my oil, except that if I don't get the engine up to operating temp I may let the car sit overnight to ensure the oil thoroughly drains. I have a lift so the car is (relatively) level which could be giving you issues with getting all of your old oil out. If you need the ramps maybe find some way to (safely) raise the rear of the car so that its level?
  17. Have you run the engine for a couple of seconds after adding the new oil to fill the filter? If not, check the level after ~15 seconds of running.
  18. I have the below kit but have not gotten around to installing it yet. I think others on here have used it. https://mustangsteve.com/product/do-it-yourself-rebuild-kit-71-73/
  19. My $0.02 is don't start fixing a problem you don't have. Better things to spend your time and money on.
  20. As Geoff says, I am pretty sure that the stampings you show are consistent with those of an original bumper. I changed mine recently and it has the same type of stampings. I've stared at the date code stamping and I think the '2' after the date code is the stamping plant shift not the MY, I think the MY is the two digits after the '71M.' Yours would be (IMO) 9/27/71, 2 rd shift, so if your car was an early-ish October '71 build 72 then likely original. My car is an August of '70 build, so this bumper is likely original (8/19/70 3rd shift):
  21. I didn't really make much progress on this over the winter. I ordered some new Deluxe door panels from Mustang Market so will be attempting to get those installed here at some point. I have a 501" stroker engine in the works but its taking a while. I have an old FRPP crate 460 engine that I think I'm going to stick in the car as it is just too gutless with the 429 that's in there now. I'm accumulating the bits and pieces to do that now. Chris hooked me up with nice straight bumper- thank you sir!
  22. Check with Don @ OMS, he has parts cars. Or Motorcity Mustang, I think Mike also has a few he's parting out.
  23. If your car is using the factory-style engine mounting system, then these are the mounts you need https://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=2559 These are two-piece mounts- there is an adapter with studs that bolt to the block and then these attach to the adapters and sit on the frame perches. Looks like this:
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