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mjlan

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Everything posted by mjlan

  1. Tim- First off, your car is beautiful! What are you looking for out primarily, performance, driveability? Generally a vacuum secondary carb will drive more smoothly but a mechanical secondary will probably make more power. A smaller carb will have better throttle response and transition while increasing the cfm will make more power in the upper rpms. How stock is your engine? If you are more interested in performance then I think a larger carb than the stock 780 is probably a better choice especially if you still have drag pack gears. I am partial to Holley-style carbs, but that’s just because I’ve more experience with them, but I’m far from an expert tuner. I found a nice used 950 HP locally and sent it off to Pro Systems to have it setup to my particular combination. I haven’t put many miles on my car with it but it seems to work pretty well. My 460 is an old crate engine, 10.5:1, FRPP SCJ heads, Stealth intake, large-ish hydraulic cam, headers and 3.91’s out back.
  2. On the driver's side is that the hole for the speedometer cable clip? Not sure on the passenger side...
  3. Maybe something got messed up with the handle install and the detent cable inside the shifter handle isn't working right?
  4. That thing must weigh a ton.
  5. It looks like the seal isn't installed correctly in the B&W photo, look at the front of the filter housing relative to the AC hose bracket. Here is a pic from my stash stolen from Ebay or other source of a late 71 M-code with AC, I don't see any glaring non-stock parts here:
  6. NA market vehicles are built in MX at the plant that used to build Focuses I believe. China is production location for the Asia market most likely.
  7. My opinion is it depends on what other modifications (if any) have been made to the engine and what one's goals are. If you are running a stock-ish engine then I don't think the expense and install time is justified. But, if the breathing on the intake side has been improved then the OE manifolds are going to be limiting air flow out of the engine. It is also possible to choose the wrong header- a 2" primary header is way overkill for most street engines... Headers will deteriorate faster than manifolds, hang lower, interfere with more other stuff in the engine bay and are noisier. Depends on what else is done to the engine.
  8. Hey Bill- I have no idea what that tool is made for but it is one of the handiest tools that I have! Had a buddy give we one years ago!
  9. 245/60R15's on 15x7's, backspace is about 3.25". I get some contact at the lower valence corner on the right side when turning left. I haven't driven much with these and it only happens at close to full lock on the right side. If I understand it correctly, increasing the backspace from my 3.25" to your 4" is pulling the rim/ tire inboard, which should give more clearance where I am having the issue. I have another pair of wheels that have about 3.75" of BS so I will probably swap wheels over the winter.
  10. Finally got the exhaust built, I got lazy and just ended it at the rear axle. It's 3" so not much quieter than open headers Once I got the exhaust on I could hear that the rocker arms or VS retainers were hitting the valve covers so I had to put these on. I was hoping for a more stealthy, stock look but that's out the window now And a shot with the new wheels. I have a pair of black 15x8's for the back (those are the 14x7's with no caps/rings) but I haven't dug them out.
  11. Hey Chuck, I bought a pair of these Hankooks from Tire Rack because they had white letters: I haven't put any miles on them yet but they were $110 ea. for 245/60R15s...
  12. In my experience if the valve spring open pressure is too low you would know it- not only would it show up on the dyno plot as a more drastic drop in power as Chuck mentioned, but you would probably also feel it in the seat-of-the-pants dyno. The car will fall on its face like its on the rev limiter... Dumb question: are you getting full throttle? I know this sounds silly but I suspect with your torque numbers you have traction issues, and its tough (for me anyway) to get to 5k+ RPM on the street at full throttle in a gear that won't blow the tires away...
  13. I'd be curious to see A/F ratio along with the power. Can the FITech datalog? Can it log fuel pressure? I agree that there appears to be something that's holding your combo back above ~4500 RPM. Air filter/ cleaner assembly too restrictive, fuel delivery, injector capacity, something like that perhaps?
  14. Good info here. One thing that I would point out is that there are versions of the full length floor panels that have the bottom of the firewall/ toe board as part of the floor pan. If this is left on it makes the replacement obvious and gives it a non-factory look. If the bottom flange of the firewall/ toe board is damaged it makes the repair a little more complicated. When I did mine I messed it up in the rear footwell because I wasn't paying attention to how flat or square the bottom of the footwell was to the rocker. If I were to do it again I would clamp a section of tubing or piece of wood across the bottom of the car so that you can set the rear footwell bottom at the same height, side-side. Mine is at the right height on the rocker side but slopes up as it goes across the car to the trans tunnel. It isn't obvious but once I noticed it I keep noticing it.It hasn't bothered me enough to fix it....yet....
  15. As others have said its probably ok if it wasn't under load. Water pump seals don't like to run dry though. If there wasn't enough residual coolant in the system I would guess that maybe your friend shortened his WP life by a few miles.
  16. Hmmm, I'm not 100% sure on a 2V. Below is the 2V 351C that was in my 72, are the things I'm pointing to the bowl vents?
  17. Me too, white or gray instead of black?
  18. I did get the engine changed, but the car has sat since then. I was hoping to have it out this year but the season is fast disappearing. I'm stalled at getting an exhaust built which seems lame now that I'm typing it... Updated engine I also found a pair of old school wheels (they are ET's) for the front since I wanted a change. I have a pair of 15x8 steel rims for the back.
  19. Lots of good info above! One thing that I did on my last one that seemed to help it start quickly is fill the float bowls of the carb with gas ahead of time so you don't have to wait on the mechanical pump. I used a nozzle from an RTV tube as a funnel. Good luck!
  20. If I had to guess that looks like the outlet or bypass connection nipple that sits in the block. Someone maybe knocked it into the block by mistake when trying to change it. Probably not hurting anything other than water flow. If your cooling system is healthy (pump, pulley ratios, hoses, radiator not blocked etc.) then the low speed cooling issues are fan/ shroud related. If the temp drops when you are at speed, that indicates that the system can reject enough heat with more airflow across the rad. Confirm that your thermostat matches the seat in the block. Also, if you are using the factory gauge as your indicator I would get a second opinion- the OE gauge is a vague indicator of what's going on at best.
  21. Welcome! It is always a daunting task to put something together that you didn't take apart! I think you have a good process list there, my only suggestion would be to work from the top down. That way nothing will drop or potentially damage the underlayment or carpeting if you are working on the headliner or something messy up high. So: 1. Remove the old tar(?) mats 2. clean floor, do anything messy (wire wheeling sanding, etc.) 3. clean roof, prep for insulation 4. put insulation on the roof 5. Install the new roof headliner 6. Install sail panels and misc trim that helps keep the headliner inpplace 7. install asphalt membrane across the entire floor 8. Install insulation (fabric) on top of the asphalt mat 9. Put in the floor mat 10. Install the side panels and misc trim that helps keep the floor mat in place (?) 11. Seats, belts, center console and stuff like that Hopefully others have some suggestions or point out better order of things than I have...
  22. I have been trying to figure out what the 'SPEC' date code on CJ/ SCJ heads means. What I have come across is not consistent. Theory #1 is that 'SPEC' were early heads. If this is the case they would be on early '70 MY engines (so engines with '69 casting dates and build dates) as the first CJ's were in the Torino line. I think this is unlikely. Theory #2 is that the 'SPEC' dates codes were for SCJ heads that were earmarked to get guide plates. This seems to me more likely as it would indicate something different in the head casting process. But I don't think there is a difference in the head itself between a non-adjustable CJ head and an SCJ head that had non-shouldered studs and guide plates. If you have confirmed that the block is indeed a four-bolt main block and the heads are 'SPEC' date codes to me that indicates an SCJ engine, not a CJ. What type of camshaft is in it? If you've had the intake off, any chance you have the block casting date? I'm always interested in engine dating of possible original engines. My J-code engine is long gone and shopping for parts is more rewarding when you can find stuff with dates that possible match what would have come originally.
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