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Everything posted by mjlan

  1. Thanks for sharing the build pics. I have no luck with welding upside down. Are you inverting the car to weld underneath or what? Your welds look much better than mine ever do...
  2. What he said! I think the splash shield you show is for the passenger side. I circled the holes that (I think!) the shield screws into. It takes the flanged self-tapping screws w/ 3/8" hex heads...
  3. That sequence number is pretty close, mine's 1098xx so three hundred or so cars earlier. Early cars had left & right supports which is what I'm after, not sure when they changed to the single support. I'm on the hunt for nice hood supports- mine are broken pretzels. The ears where they attach to the core support and where the front valance bolts are usually bent and damaged. If those parts are straight I'm interested! Thanks! -Matt Edit: Found a picture, the parts I've pointed to with blue arrows are what I'm looking for but I'd take whatever parts are there in good shape!
  4. What's the build date? I'd be interested in some pieces if its an early build.
  5. Cool car, awesome story, to good not to share...
  6. I've never had any issues with the OE power-assisted disc/ drum setup. What issues are you experiencing? Sometimes incorrect parts have been installed and they create problems. The biggest contributor to the overall braking performance of a car is the tires. Make sure they are good quality, not old and hard and inflated properly. Sounds lame but true!
  7. https://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/pts/d/livonia-mustang-mach1-clock-delete/7260626195.html
  8. The first character is model year, next letter is assembly plant and then the partial. For cases where multiple vehicles are on the same platform at the same plant, Ford partials start with a '1' and Mercury partials start with a '5'.
  9. Geoff- I have something in the works for the car based on parts I already had. The block is the right casting number and date range, it just has a Torino partial VIN on it. I know the odds of actually finding the right block are stupid, but then I think that it doesn't hurt to ask right? David- I hope that Harrah's story is a fairy tale, that would be horrible!
  10. I didn't get that vibe from him. Since my J-code's original engine is long gone I keep my eyes open anytime I see somebody advertising an SCJ engine for sale. I had to send him some pics of where the VIN was and what it meant. He said it came out of silver four speed car... -Matt
  11. This engine is for sale on Detroit Craigslist. I reached out to the seller to see what the partial VIN was- 1F186101. https://detroit.craigslist.org/okl/pts/d/roseville-ford-429-scj-the-real-deal/7249182905.html
  12. I think you haven't gotten much response because it all depends on what you are going to do with the parts. Personally, I would avoid any block already bored oversized, especially one at 0.040"! Around me in Michigan I can turn up a core engine for $300-400 that is standard bore. This to me is more attractive because the block can be sized to the pistons and I have all of the little bits and pieces needed. Its hard to buy parts like this without thoroughly checking them over or paying to have them checked. -Matt
  13. Nice looking car Chuck! I wish I still had my first car (a 71 M-code 4-speed Sportsroof) but unfortunately my 17 year old self was a moron and destroyed it. IMO, its less sad to know that you passed it on to someone else for them to enjoy vs. knowing that you destroyed one...
  14. Ok thanks. The OE tach needs to sense the coil primary circuit opening and closing to function then? Is there an issue for the tach if the wire is just triggering a relay? The tach would just sit on 0 RPM right? The question was pertaining to a Duraspark conversion, so the relay would be feeding +12V to the DS1 coil, so the original coil feed wire would no longer sense the coil primary circuit...
  15. Can the existing coil+ (in a car with the factory Ford tach) power supply wire be used as the trigger for a relay without messing up the tach calibration? I am not electrically savvy enough to convince myself that the change in electrical load on this wire from powering a coil to triggering a relay won't make the tach read weird.... Thanks, -Matt
  16. The axle ratio is independent of tire diameter. 3.00:1 is a fairly common ratio for a 9 inch. but so is 2.89 and 3.10. Higher numerically means better acceleration, lower numerically means lower cruise RPM. But you probably knew that...
  17. I am not convinced that the RA setup does anything other than look badass. Don't connect the scoop solenoids to any vacuum so they stay open all the time and then you can remove or block the snorkel opening. This way your setup looks functional retaining its bad ass looks and your engine won't be sucking hot air when you aren't flooring it... I can't hear the scoop flappers opening over my exhaust so this will be my plan when I get my new engine up and running...
  18. I am planning to spend some time on this over the winter, I am working with a local engine builder- he's doing a short block for me as well as going through a pair of D0OE-R heads I had in my stash. Using the above info I'm also planning on updating the interior as there's a lot of wrong/ incorrect/ ugly parts. We'll see how much actually gets done. Another interior question- seat belt color. Were they always black or did some trim combos get interior color belts?
  19. Bringing this back up from the depths again.... Ray- would you happen to have casting date info for any of the other pieces (water pump, intake, heads etc.) on your original engine? In a quick internet search, it seems engine part casting dates are usually within 15-45 days of the car's build date. I'm keeping my eyes peeled for stock and appropriate bits and pieces for my 429 car and have an intake dated '0D21', but I think that its a little too early for my build date of 9/11/70. I got closer with a block I had in my stash, its date is '0G8'. Thanks! -Matt
  20. I'm interested in the clutch linkage and the intake manifold vacuum fittings on the ends in your picture (the one in the middle is a PVS, not interested in that. PM me if this stuff is still available!
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