Jump to content

danoreilly

Members
  • Posts

    138
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    71 Mach1 351C 4V
    02 Deluxe Convertible
    67 Fairlane GT 390

Location

  • Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
  • Region
    Southwest

Personal Information

  • Sex
    Undisclosed

danoreilly's Achievements

Collaborator

Collaborator (7/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later

Recent Badges

4

Reputation

  1. I finally broke down and bought a new driver side window regulator for my 71 Mach. I've never been happy with the one that's in there and how sloppy it is, and how it doesn't come up totally level at the front. So the questions I have are: Can I replace the regulator without removing the window glass? How many of the small black metal glass guides at the top of the the front of the door opening are used for each door window? One on each side of the glass? Can I pop rivet them in? And if so, what size rivet? Best method to align the glass properly? Thanks in advance!
  2. I have a 71 351C original to the car. When I rebuilt it a few years ago, the 2v heads were milled along with the block a total of .029 to both raise compression and to true the block face. I added an Edelbrock 4v manifold and Holley 4v carb and an improved Comp cam at the same time, and am running a Pertronix Ignitor system. I have 2 historic problems: a) the car is the most cold-blooded animal I've ever driven, and ) I have a noticeable miss, most notably under any kind of acceleration. It's not always noticeable, but it's there, and it really robs power. When the miss isn't there, the car runs like a raped ape. I'm looking for solutions for the miss. What's the order of things to check? Best way to check? Thanks in advance!
  3. When it came in, was the short actuating arm attached to the output shaft of the motor? If so, it could be attached incorrectly, and so the wipers would be 180 degrees out of phase. If you decide to pull the motor and change the arm to check it, DO NOT attach the arm to the transmission before you actually check the operation of the motor again. You risk running your wipers right into the paint on your cowling.
  4. The real value of VR1 is for the zinc. As much as it costs for an engine rebuild, it's all I use.
  5. Get hold of kid's modeling clay, and put a lump of it on top of the tallest point under the hood. Next, close the hood gently, open it again, and measure the height of the squashed clay. Same sort of thing you do when checking valve to piston clearances.
  6. The block off plates were actually more for aesthetics than functionality (not leaving a big ugly hole). Even a functional ram air system (I have one) will allow water in under normal conditions, but not in sufficient quantity to cause a problem.
  7. I was going thru my old posts today, and realized I hadn't gotten around to posting pictures of my completed Fairlane. It took me about 5 years to do. So, here goes. This is a stock paint job, interior, etc. The chrome on the engine is stock as well, because it has the GT package.
  8. The tach on my 71 Mach has suddenly stopped working. It worked fine uo until a couple days ago. I had to get the car hauled to a tranny shop (they had to pull the tranny and replace the flex plate). On the way home, I noticed it wasn't working. I suppose there's something the shop could have done, but don't know for sure. Anyway, I checked the connections in the engine compartment, looks OK. Is there a fuse that might affect it? What else and how can I perform any other checks?
  9. Yup. Where I come from (northern Montana, where -35 isn't unusual in the winter), they're called a "Montana Thermostat"... :D
  10. It's a Comp Xtreme Energy XE256H cam. The specs are at: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=846&sb=2 As for adjusting the timing up, is 10 degrees good or would you recommend more?
  11. I would but have no way of getting it up into the air to do the examination. I don't know there's enough room to get a magnet past the fkywheel.
  12. In all my time with cars, I've never seen this happen. Started my 71 Mach (351C) yesterday, and heard a funky clinking noise for a second as it fired. Shut it down after warming it up for a bit, then tried to restart it. Nothing. Start just spun at full speed but didn't engage the flywheel. So, I pulled the starter off and imagine my surprise when I looked and saw all of the starter drive teeth totally stripped off. I mean, they were ALL gone, and there were shards of teeth inside the bellhousing where the starter goes. I wasn't able to examine the flywheel teeth themselves, but I did remove the inspection plate off the tranny and felt around the teeth, they didn't feel damaged. So, I guess now I need to get the car hauled to a shop and have the tranny pulled so the remaining shrapnel from the drive can be removed from the bellhousing (and there's a lot of it unaccounted for), and so the flywheel can be examined. I can't believe it would be wise to leave that crap in the bellhousing. So much for holiday cruising...
×
×
  • Create New...