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About danoreilly

  • Rank
    Mustangs are cool

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    71 Mach1 351C 4V
    02 Deluxe Convertible
    67 Fairlane GT 390


  • Location
    Colorado Springs, CO
  • Region

Personal Information

  • Sex
  1. The real value of VR1 is for the zinc. As much as it costs for an engine rebuild, it's all I use.
  2. Get hold of kid's modeling clay, and put a lump of it on top of the tallest point under the hood. Next, close the hood gently, open it again, and measure the height of the squashed clay. Same sort of thing you do when checking valve to piston clearances.
  3. The block off plates were actually more for aesthetics than functionality (not leaving a big ugly hole). Even a functional ram air system (I have one) will allow water in under normal conditions, but not in sufficient quantity to cause a problem.
  4. I was going thru my old posts today, and realized I hadn't gotten around to posting pictures of my completed Fairlane. It took me about 5 years to do. So, here goes. This is a stock paint job, interior, etc. The chrome on the engine is stock as well, because it has the GT package.
  5. The tach on my 71 Mach has suddenly stopped working. It worked fine uo until a couple days ago. I had to get the car hauled to a tranny shop (they had to pull the tranny and replace the flex plate). On the way home, I noticed it wasn't working. I suppose there's something the shop could have done, but don't know for sure. Anyway, I checked the connections in the engine compartment, looks OK. Is there a fuse that might affect it? What else and how can I perform any other checks?
  6. Yup. Where I come from (northern Montana, where -35 isn't unusual in the winter), they're called a "Montana Thermostat"... :D
  7. It's a Comp Xtreme Energy XE256H cam. The specs are at: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=846&sb=2 As for adjusting the timing up, is 10 degrees good or would you recommend more?
  8. I would but have no way of getting it up into the air to do the examination. I don't know there's enough room to get a magnet past the fkywheel.
  9. In all my time with cars, I've never seen this happen. Started my 71 Mach (351C) yesterday, and heard a funky clinking noise for a second as it fired. Shut it down after warming it up for a bit, then tried to restart it. Nothing. Start just spun at full speed but didn't engage the flywheel. So, I pulled the starter off and imagine my surprise when I looked and saw all of the starter drive teeth totally stripped off. I mean, they were ALL gone, and there were shards of teeth inside the bellhousing where the starter goes. I wasn't able to examine the flywheel teeth themselves, but
  10. I've owned my 71 Mach with a 351C for 10 years now. For all that time, I've never experienced a more cold blooded car. When cold, it idles ok, but put it in gear and it stalls (same thing coming to a stop at a corner). I have to be quick on the throttle to get it going - kinda hard on the tranny. Once it thoroughly warms up, it's fine. The motor was rebuilt with a more aggressive Comp cam, better pistons, and the compression raised by 1.1 points by shaving the heads and deck. I'm running an Edelbrock Performer intake and a Holley 80457 carb. I have timing set at 8 BTDC due to the
  11. OK, so I finally got the parts in the garage sorted out enough that I could get the car in. So, here are some pics. Keep in mind, I said the body was pristine, not the paint. There's obviously cleanup to do, and the passenger side door is in the trunk, awaiting getting its rust hold repaired. Most of the crap stacked on top and underneath is trash that goes out this week, by the way. Only the couple of grey bins have real parts in them.
  12. Hope to get some this weekend. It't been colder than h**l here (-9 a couple days ago). Just too cold to uncover it & shoot. Be in the 50's this weekend, so hopefully I can get some pics.
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