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danoreilly

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Everything posted by danoreilly

  1. I finally broke down and bought a new driver side window regulator for my 71 Mach. I've never been happy with the one that's in there and how sloppy it is, and how it doesn't come up totally level at the front. So the questions I have are: Can I replace the regulator without removing the window glass? How many of the small black metal glass guides at the top of the the front of the door opening are used for each door window? One on each side of the glass? Can I pop rivet them in? And if so, what size rivet? Best method to align the glass properly? Thanks in advance!
  2. I have a 71 351C original to the car. When I rebuilt it a few years ago, the 2v heads were milled along with the block a total of .029 to both raise compression and to true the block face. I added an Edelbrock 4v manifold and Holley 4v carb and an improved Comp cam at the same time, and am running a Pertronix Ignitor system. I have 2 historic problems: a) the car is the most cold-blooded animal I've ever driven, and ) I have a noticeable miss, most notably under any kind of acceleration. It's not always noticeable, but it's there, and it really robs power. When the miss isn't there, the car runs like a raped ape. I'm looking for solutions for the miss. What's the order of things to check? Best way to check? Thanks in advance!
  3. When it came in, was the short actuating arm attached to the output shaft of the motor? If so, it could be attached incorrectly, and so the wipers would be 180 degrees out of phase. If you decide to pull the motor and change the arm to check it, DO NOT attach the arm to the transmission before you actually check the operation of the motor again. You risk running your wipers right into the paint on your cowling.
  4. The real value of VR1 is for the zinc. As much as it costs for an engine rebuild, it's all I use.
  5. Get hold of kid's modeling clay, and put a lump of it on top of the tallest point under the hood. Next, close the hood gently, open it again, and measure the height of the squashed clay. Same sort of thing you do when checking valve to piston clearances.
  6. The block off plates were actually more for aesthetics than functionality (not leaving a big ugly hole). Even a functional ram air system (I have one) will allow water in under normal conditions, but not in sufficient quantity to cause a problem.
  7. I was going thru my old posts today, and realized I hadn't gotten around to posting pictures of my completed Fairlane. It took me about 5 years to do. So, here goes. This is a stock paint job, interior, etc. The chrome on the engine is stock as well, because it has the GT package.
  8. The tach on my 71 Mach has suddenly stopped working. It worked fine uo until a couple days ago. I had to get the car hauled to a tranny shop (they had to pull the tranny and replace the flex plate). On the way home, I noticed it wasn't working. I suppose there's something the shop could have done, but don't know for sure. Anyway, I checked the connections in the engine compartment, looks OK. Is there a fuse that might affect it? What else and how can I perform any other checks?
  9. Yup. Where I come from (northern Montana, where -35 isn't unusual in the winter), they're called a "Montana Thermostat"... :D
  10. It's a Comp Xtreme Energy XE256H cam. The specs are at: http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=846&sb=2 As for adjusting the timing up, is 10 degrees good or would you recommend more?
  11. I would but have no way of getting it up into the air to do the examination. I don't know there's enough room to get a magnet past the fkywheel.
  12. In all my time with cars, I've never seen this happen. Started my 71 Mach (351C) yesterday, and heard a funky clinking noise for a second as it fired. Shut it down after warming it up for a bit, then tried to restart it. Nothing. Start just spun at full speed but didn't engage the flywheel. So, I pulled the starter off and imagine my surprise when I looked and saw all of the starter drive teeth totally stripped off. I mean, they were ALL gone, and there were shards of teeth inside the bellhousing where the starter goes. I wasn't able to examine the flywheel teeth themselves, but I did remove the inspection plate off the tranny and felt around the teeth, they didn't feel damaged. So, I guess now I need to get the car hauled to a shop and have the tranny pulled so the remaining shrapnel from the drive can be removed from the bellhousing (and there's a lot of it unaccounted for), and so the flywheel can be examined. I can't believe it would be wise to leave that crap in the bellhousing. So much for holiday cruising...
  13. I've owned my 71 Mach with a 351C for 10 years now. For all that time, I've never experienced a more cold blooded car. When cold, it idles ok, but put it in gear and it stalls (same thing coming to a stop at a corner). I have to be quick on the throttle to get it going - kinda hard on the tranny. Once it thoroughly warms up, it's fine. The motor was rebuilt with a more aggressive Comp cam, better pistons, and the compression raised by 1.1 points by shaving the heads and deck. I'm running an Edelbrock Performer intake and a Holley 80457 carb. I have timing set at 8 BTDC due to the altitude I live at, and have fine tuned the mixture by vacuum to 12 inches, which i think is appropriate for the cam profile. I'm pulling power for the choke from the stator terminal on the alternator, and the choke pulls off properly. The idle speed is spot on at 600. Pertronix II electronic ignition and standard oe dizzy. Personally, I suspect the carb is the problem. It's a factory refurb I bought from Holley. I'm open to all suggestions.
  14. OK, so I finally got the parts in the garage sorted out enough that I could get the car in. So, here are some pics. Keep in mind, I said the body was pristine, not the paint. There's obviously cleanup to do, and the passenger side door is in the trunk, awaiting getting its rust hold repaired. Most of the crap stacked on top and underneath is trash that goes out this week, by the way. Only the couple of grey bins have real parts in them.
  15. Hope to get some this weekend. It't been colder than h**l here (-9 a couple days ago). Just too cold to uncover it & shoot. Be in the 50's this weekend, so hopefully I can get some pics.
  16. $3k, clean title. Let the hating begin... But now you know why I couldn't pass it up! :D
  17. Got the Fairlane home yesterday, and had a chance to go through it thoroughly today. Man, I cannot believe this is an unrestored, 46 year old car! The thing is just so pristine. I found 1 minor dent on the RR quarter above the wheel, a crease towards the bottom of the LR quarter behind the wheel, a 1.5" hole in the right toeboard, and a 1" hole in the right door. That is IT for obvious body damage, after going over the whole car pretty thoroughly. The trunk is in great shape, the front clip is already painted, the front fenders and cowl panel are NOS from another wrecked car and they've already been primed. I'm certain that taking the paint down will reveal a few more minor problems, but for about 95% of the car, you can sand down what remains of the original paint and shoot the car. It's that straight. The interior paint is in similar shape, except the dash needs to be sanded down thoroughly before painting. I plan on media blasting the interior and having it shot with a good epoxy primer to ensure the rustless-ness will continue.
  18. Well, I bought the car this week. And I have to say, my first impression is WOW!!!! All the parts are there, including a bunch scavenged from another wrecked 67 Fairlane. This car is STRAIGHT. It lived all its life in Pueblo, CO and Pahrumph, NV. Both hot and dry climates, so almost no rust. The cool thing is the original owner's manual is still there, including the date of purchase, address of the original buyer, etc.. I haven't checked out the rear undercarriage yet, as I'm towing the car home this weekend. But basically, the vehicle is ready for paint. Front suspension, steering components all totally rebuilt rebuilt. Front clip prepared & painted already. Turns out the car had a vinyl roof originally, but all the trim for that is still there (MAJOR bonus). A pair of used but VERY nice NOS front fenders already in primer. Only 2 rust spots I saw: one on the passenger-side footboard and on on the passenger side door. Both are about the size of a quarter is all. All I have to do is add an interior, get the paint on, and reassemble it. That's it. A steal, and I can't WAIT to get it on the road!
  19. Can't. Getting a tooth pulled early Friday AM, so I'm going to be sitting around the house feeling sorry for myself...take a rain check for next Friday?
  20. Looks like I may have the chance to make a really nice score: a '67 Fairlane GT with a 390 4V motor. It's in pretty straight shape, even drivable with a bit of rust repair. The best thing is the motor has less than 1k miles on it after a total rebuild, including roller cam & rockers, that sort of thing. The FE engines make great power pretty fast. And the nice thing is, the car's VIN has been researched and it's a genuine 390 GT. Meaning standard power front disks, power steering, bucket seats, nice trim package etc.. My wife owned a '65 Fairlane 500 when we got married and I had a '65 Galaxie. So, this car, while not a '65, is close enough, plus it's a REALLY hot car when you get 'em fixed up. Should go nicely in the stable next to my '71 Mach. Film at 11...
  21. I did try that. Sometimes I would feel a slight "rumble", for lack of a better word. However, I never did hear the grinding noise. I don't think that's very conclusive, though, as sometimes I can drive the car a few miles, and the sound happens once or twice then quits for a while. Unfortunately, it's not something I can duplicate. When I pull the pumpkin, I'm also going to thoroughly check the u-joints, even though they're only 3 or 4 years old, while the pumpkin is 42.
  22. I wouldn't be able to hear my rear end with the motor running! I did talk today to a very knowledgeable guy who's very familiar with the Ford 9". He told me it sounded very much like a spider gear in the pumpkin. I'm inclined to agree. It's the original rear end and the only thing I ever did to it was new axle bearings and seals. I'm going to pull the pumpkin and either rebuild it or buy an already-rebuilt one.
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