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tempestairbrush

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Everything posted by tempestairbrush

  1. Looks to me the car was chopped and someone tried to pick a windshield that fit height wise, however did NOT fit the body lines on the sides. In my opinion the car needs a lot of work however i can see it could be more appealing to non purest with the nose redesigned, side flares removed or at least diminished a lot, the hood scoop also removed, and interior brought up to this decade or brought back to the decade the car was build. Overall I do like the main body lines with the nose angled down and the chop on the car, plus what they did with the rear (again minus the flares). The guy is asking way too much for this car for like stated above for a car that needs too much work just to put it back on the road, not to even mention to give it a quality restoration. My opinion in its conditions its worth about as much as the parts and that's about it.
  2. Yes I also know about the "295/50R15s with about 4 1/2" of backspacing" on my car haha I guess a popular look on these cars. Yeah, they are 50r's my bad, and matte black hood with the original sliver with the metallic is most likely what we are going to do. Thanks for the info on the shocks it helps a ton! That's really funny that your car may of had air time reminds me of the Duke's of Hazzard.
  3. It is a 1989 bronco II and is actually for sale 302 V8 conversion and manual transmission. Nice caddy!!! But I wouldn't mind finding that bronco II you have in a barn!! Is that an 89? Still looking to pick another one up some day!
  4. My recent "Barn Find" was after a guy at the auto parts store told me he met a lady that had a 56 Cadillac and her husband passed away after buying the car from the original owner and letting it sit untouched in over 25+ years. She wanted it gone because she was paying a $75 storage locker bill a month for the car since 1994 but was kind of weary of meeting strangers on the internet so asked if he knew anyone interested. I'm not really a Cadillac guy but this thing is a cool time capsule from the last time it was driven by the original owner in 1989, everything how is was in original factory condition and honestly in really good shape considering its age and for the $1,500 I paid for it. The interior is in rough shape with the humidity, however is all there. I also have all the original paperwork found inside the car with a copy of the original title, dealership invoice, and inspection for the car from 84-89 documenting the car at 84,000 miles also this car was bought from the dealership in the town I bought it out of the storage locker. I haven't had a change to try to mess around with it and get it running but did some of the dirt cleaned off of it to check out the condition of the paint. Hopefully in the next few weeks I will get a chance to get it running and find a new home for it with someone that really appreciates how far ahead these cars were in their time with the quality in manufacturing and the technology including ac in the roof and floor, power windows, brakes, steering and seats.
  5. I used the black diamond aggressive blast material on the structure of my car and was happy with how it preformed, it can be bought in a 50lf bag at northern tool at a reasonable price. Looks like you got a nice project ahead of you, good luck.
  6. Man I feel your pain been there before, A lot of others stated above that from my experience it can be engine and or trans mounts not aligning up or like showed below from running solid mounts, vibrations and putting stress on the drivetrain. The way it cracked looks like it is from stress from being pulled two different directions in my opinion. Also I don't think that was mentioned is a misaligned unbalanced driveshaft could do that at cruising speed, did you feel any vibration? Also if the driveshaft isn't bottoming out make sure you check the input shaft on the driveshaft goes smoothly in all the way of the tail shaft of the transmission and the groves aren't warped and causing a bind there.
  7. +1 on the go karts, racing and going fast in a more controlled safer environment to learn and take smaller steps on handling and control before jumping right onto the street with something that is way over your head. Dirt is one of the best ways to learn throttle and overall control of a vehicle. What you say is so true. I drove like a maniac when I was young when you are a teenager you are bullet proof for sure. The way I kept my son from going wild was to put him in a racing go cart when he was 8 and we both raced until he turned 16 and found out what girls could do, lol. He had some bad crashes and went to hospital once had bad bruised kidneys but was ok. He learned how to drive on dirt so he knew what to do when the car went sideways. He even yelled at his mom on icy road when she turned the wheel the wrong way. Thank goodness he never crashed anything until he went to sleep a couple years ago and crashed his Ranger PU at 30 years of age. He had a Hyundai for first car and then he bought a Camaro and could not keep it running was broke all the time. I gave him my 20th. ann Mustang that he still has sitting in garage. I think the go cart racing with the wheel to wheel racing with only an inch to spare made him aware of what can happen and how fast it happens. He saw what a crash or many crashes at 45 MPH can do and they do not wear belts in car racing. If you have ever climbed a wheel with on you know what a pounding you take flying into the air and with as many as 18 carts it gets bad sometimes. If you have a son or daughter I would recommend that you do that and I guarantee you they will respect what a car can and will do. He got his yard cart at 5 and we had a track at my dads he would run on before going to a racing cart. I built the engines and pitted the cart which will keep an old guy young. He built his first cart engine at 8. He now works at the BMW plan but says they are sorry vehicles and still drives a Ford. David
  8. I went to the front bumper mounts in the front and then made my own brackets that use the shackle mounts in the rear and drop down to square tubing for the rear. Its nice to do the rear on the shackle mounts because you can get all around the whole area while prepping the body.
  9. I would say if the doors close ok now and the gaps look good you should be alright as I don't know maybe someone here can give you some measurements convertibles to check. As far as measurements after as long as the person doing the work supports the car before cutting you should be ok as it shouldn't have the opportunity to move. I would take measurements off certain areas of the car then compare them before and after just for piece of mind and if you take measurements make sure you account to variables like uneven floors, psi in tires and suspension height. Thanks for the time estimate very helpful as I get quotes together. As far as I can tell the doors are still aligned. What checks can I perform to make sure its not sagging and what can I check after the rocker panels and floor pans are put in to confirm its aligned correctly..
  10. I just got a 73 fastback partially restored and sold and currently in the process of moving and upgrading the garage so the 72 got put on hold for the next few months. I will post some pics once I get cracking back on it hopefully by mid February at the latest.
  11. I did full floor pans driver side and passenger side in my fastback along with one rocker panel and it took me around 35-40 hours if you want another estimate on time and pictures in my build thread on this site. I used mustang coupe seat pans and modified them to fit the fastback as they sat up too high if I installed them as they were. I agree with the post above the main problem with a convertible vs a fastback or coupe is that the car relies so much more on the floor as the main support especially with rocker panels. If it was my car and before I started cutting away at it, (and I would only do everything in sections not at once to not disrupt the structure more than you already have too) I would almost build a mini jig holding the car in place so it doesn't sag and to provide the support for the structure you are replacing. Hopefully the rust isn't too bad at this point that it isn't starting to sag already.
  12. Kurt, try http://www.racinggraphics.com I have used them on a circle track car on numerous times. Their prices are reasonable and have a quality product. If you go to the packages area and pick a random race car you can just upload an image and set all dimensions and effects and it also gives you the quote as you apply different sizes and styles.
  13. Good Luck with the rebuild, I just finished rebuilding my C4 also, they are a great transmission to learn on. If you run into any questions there is a great YouTube video with 3 parts that really helped me out if you search rebuilding C4 transmission. The guy goes through everything step by step and if you have a manual it is extra reassurance.
  14. Thanks but on the glass half full approach if it does sell it will free up some workshop space to work on another 71-73 mustang..
  15. Selling my 1973 Mustang fast back great car click the link for long detailed description of the car and 50 + pictures. Runs great no problems asking $8500 clean NC title in hand. Located in Fayetteville NC, message me here or in the link i listed my number, thanks for looking ....Rick
  16. There should be spot welds form support to the floor pan flush and yes your probably right it sounds like someone that replaced the floor pan probably cut it a little too short and didn't match the arch perfectly leaving the gap in between the pan and the support.
  17. I tried it once and it seemed the header wrap seemed to pick up and hold all dirt / grease and was the hardest thing to keep clean under the hood, so I would be careful if this car is a driver.
  18. If you have decent welding skills and you plan on pulling the engine then i think replacing it is the way to go. I replaced one on a 72 someone decided to put a bolt in one for removing the oil pan on a bracket car. I went through the forum here and a member had one off a parts car that i got cheap and asked them to cut it larger than i needed so i could grind and cut it to just fit into place. The time I spent on replacing it was worth the effort i think.
  19. Thanks that is what i was kind of leaning toward being i pulled a similar plug off a FMX transmission in the same location on that transmission i had laying around the garage to replace it. Just wanted to make sure before i started it up and damaged anything inside after it was just rebuilt and couldn't find any info on the internet about what it actually does.
  20. I have lost the plug on my transmission while rebuilding it that is inside the red box on this picture and it looks to me like it is just a normal plug. Does anyone know if it is some kind of special part that has to be in that hole or just a standard plug to stop ATF from leaking out? thanks\
  21. Thanks for looking I will go ahead and try to fix the one I got, seems like they are pretty hard to come by.
  22. Thanks for the info, I looked at their site and I didn't find exactly what I am looking for but found a couple others that were similar but will probably pass on even asking them for one for my car. For $80 with shipping I will go ahead and just make one or repair the one I already have.
  23. I asked around a couple shops in the area and they said good luck and they don't see too many of these transmissions anymore so I figured on here was a good route to go to maybe track one down. Let me know if you find one, I appreciate it.
  24. Looking for a transmission kick down lever that bolts on the transmission for a 73 mustang with a C4. I have all other parts needed the transmission rolled over on the side and bent the rod and snapped it. thanks
  25. I would say if you have some decent welding skills and the time from what I saw in the pics it is not a deal breaker, however it would before spending the time and money on torque boxes and cutting patch metal for around the rear seatbelt areas I would go through the rest of the car and see exactly what else your in for so there are no more surprises and revaluate the project as a whole.
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