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Everything posted by MechEng

  1. Thanks for the tip! I'll be sure to keep that in mind. Right now I want to try and stay local (or local-ish, California, Arizona, Nevada) if I can. I don't really want to buy a car sight unseen at this point.
  2. Well, the time has come to replace my 1973 Mach 1 that I sold a few years ago when I moved. I'm in Southern Arizona now, so anything local-ish would be preferred! Otherwise, so long as it's a fastback I'm willing to take a look. I want a project, so less than $10k price is where I'm at! Let me know what you have or know of!!
  3. I reached out to them about this a few months ago. They have no intentions of doing the center gauges or the clock.
  4. I love how they left the brakes stock. The drums in the back look so stupid with such huge rims. What a waste.
  5. I'd give the first one a really hard look if I was interested, it's been repainted at some point (Missing the blackout on the top of the front bumper) and is showing rust signs in the trunk corners. Second one is a seller that's been reading too many other ebay ads. It's not worth $5500 in my opinion and unless the Marti report on the car confirms this "Not a mach 1, mach 1" story, it's nothing more than a plane jane fastback. I also like the "Q code" hood. Third,well this one actually looks pretty nice. Again an obvious repaint (73 didn't see the option for a TuTone hood without hood pins) and the front spoiler looks to have been installed poorly (You can see daylight through a gap that shouldn't exist in one of the pictures) there's also been some suspension changes in the back. I don't think it's worth $17,000 but it is a nice car.
  6. I would advise if you're replacing the printed circuit to go ahead and replace all of those sockets as well. They corrode pretty badly. RockAuto has the new ones for about a buck a piece. All the bulbs are the same, and all of them should be populated.
  7. While I appreciate the thought and opinion Q, it's not for me. I want to save a rusty car and put it back on the road. I know it'll cost more in the end, but there's something about saving a classic that I want to be a part of.
  8. Okay so I know this isn't really what we cater to here at 7173Mustangs. But as some of you may have seen I sold off my 73 Mach 1 back in California. I'm now searching for a project 1970 Fastback out here in the Ohio Valley. I'm willing to travel a bit for the car, Alabama, Georgia, Tennessee, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois. I know what these cars command price wise and that people are going nuts with their asking prices. So I'm hoping someone here may have a line on one that I can grab.
  9. Welcome from Central Kentucky! We openly welcome all questions here! When you get a chance put some pictures up! We'd love to see what you're working with!
  10. Never been before but I plan to go this year. Figure it's one of the bigger part swap meets around these parts
  11. If anyone wants a closer look at it let me know. Louisville is only about 35 minutes from me. I'm up there most weekends to chill.
  12. That's a really interestingly optioned car. Mach 1, but no Tach, no center gauges, and no console, standard dash and standard door panels. Obviously repainted. Not a bad price either.
  13. And so this story comes to a close. I sold the Mach 1 today to a new home. Told him about the sight, hope to see him join up. Now to find a new project our here in the Kentucky/Alabama area...
  14. Why is a car in North Carolina being advertised in Arizona? Also, couldn't be bothered to clean off the tree bits in the back before snapping the picture?
  15. Crazy custom interior, and a rather high price tag considering how little information that he gives.
  16. The most likely cause for this is the flasher going bad. I would try swapping that out first and see if it fixes the issue. I do believe that both the left and right turn signal use the same flasher, so they'll both behave the same if the flasher is indeed the problem. Are you running LEDs in any of the lights? The low draw of LEDs can cause standard flasher units to behave as you're describing.
  17. Kurt, can you please expand on this one a little more. Does that radiator work for a 351 or will it be too small? A question. Do those cross-beams under the car by the tail pipe cross-over original? or why will they be added? Those cross beams are not stock, they would have been added to help chassis stiffness. Not an uncommon modification. Looks like a home grown set-up since there really isn't anything out there off the shelf for our cars. I'm curious about Kurt's comment as well. All in all, a real looker of a car! I would take a peak under that trunk mat though. Very odd that they would cover the little hold points for the trap door with the mat. Otherwise it looks really clean!
  18. It sounds like your lights might be wired backwards, that the filament that's supposed to be the turn signal is wired to the running light and vice versa. What year car do you have? I have the wiring diagram for the 73 and can tell you which pin should be which. The other thing is to make sure you have the right kind of bulb. There are a number that look basically identical but are slightly different (like having the filaments reversed)
  19. Is there a major price difference? If not I don't see why you wouldn't go with the 4 row radiator to get as much cooling as possible. Also, just to ask, you mention the thermostat, but if you have a 351 Cleveland, are you sure it's the proper kind that seals against the bypass plate?
  20. You can always go here to find out what number bulb you need: http://www.sylvania.com/en-us/applications/automotive-lighting-systems/Pages/lrgmain.aspx It's very accurate. Though they don't tell you quantity. That's something you're going to have to figure out through investigation! (Or kind forum patron!)
  21. I did the upgrade to my stock instrument cluster. I went and purchased the LEDs myself instead of buying a kit. And a few words of advice: 1. Replace the circuit board on the dash cluster, since the contacts are all open to air they have a tendency to corrode, and form divots at the contact points which leads not only to lose connections, but highly resistive ones. 2. Replace your headlight switch with a new one. LEDs are current driven devices and not voltage driven devices, so the resistance added from corrosion is pretty impacting into overall brightness. 3. Also replace the little cups the lights themselves go in, mine were corroded to all heck and even a couple minutes with a points file still left me with shaky connections. As far as being dimmer friendly, mine dim no problem. And though I've switched to LEDs in both turn signal indicators, my standard flashing units work just fine. Most of the kits that I've seen only do the main dash cluster. I think this is due to the huge variety of combinations that are possible in our cars as to the total configuration. You really don't get that much of a discount in my opinion getting a kit from a mustang supplier than you would if you just bought the needed LEDs from one of the main LED suppliers. You also get more flexibility and you can pick up addition LEDs on the way. To Austin Vert's question. If you compared the condition of most of our Blue Lenses to what they looked like from the factory the problem becomes pretty apparent. From the factory the lenses were a glossy, translucent blue. Most of what you find now in our cars is a matte foggy blue. This is oxidation of the plastic that is seriously affecting the amount of light transmission that the lenses are capable of. You would get the most factory look if you removed them and went with Green LEDs. A word of caution, my plastic was EXTREMELY brittle, and the little retainer tabs broke off when I removed one of my lenses for testing. Currently our lenses are not reproduced. But Classic Cougar Concepts does make the lenses for Cougars which are very similar and with a little ingenuity I think could be made to work if you wanted a more stock style (but it's also important to note that in that case, you'd want yellow LEDs to match the original output color of the filament bulbs)
  22. Very nice looking car! And I like the scenery too.
  23. Hmmm good question. I'd be interested as well. Sometimes it would be nice to not see the new posts in the classified section.
  24. There are some emissions differences between the three years, the most restricted of the three is 1973 because of the strict regulations that came into affect at this time. In terms of removing all of it, that's accomplished quite easily. The EGR valve can be removed and a block-off plate installed. And then the only vacuum line required is for the distributor (as well as supporting vacuum accessories such as the power brakes, air conditioning, and transmission) This effectively removes the exterior portions of the emissions system. There is also the vapor recovery system for the fuel tank, which is a small canister mounted on the passenger side wheel tub, which has a return line to the gas tank, and is connected to the engine via the air cleaner with a small tube. Again easily removed. Internally there are some difference, the compression ratio for the engines of each year are slightly different as Ford responded to the emissions requirements. There's a better explanation of that posted in a different thread here on the board. These engines were never equipped with smog pumps to my knowledge.
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