Jump to content

Fredensborg

VIP Members
  • Posts

    270
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by Fredensborg

  1. 1 hour ago, 7mach1 said:

    Thanks. I think y’all convinced me!

    BTW - how would someone go about getting the history of a car? Previous owners, state/country it was titled in, etc. 

    I tried a couple years ago, I managed to find the guy who brought my car to Minnesota but unfortunately he was deceased. DMV departments are not very helpful as far as giving you access to records, its all privacy law stuff. Your best bet will be to track down the owners one by one and ask who they got it from, and hope that they feel like talking. I know the previous three owners of my car, but the trail goes cold with the deceased one obviously...A couple of times I thought I had found my previous owner's brother on Facebook, but he has a very common name so it has always ended in disappointment. I'm still trying to find the guy to figure out where his brother got it from, all I know is that it was somewhere in the southwest...Arizona/California area. Good luck though, and if you do find anything please share it! I love to read the stories of these old cars!

    • Like 1
  2. 12 hours ago, Idaho Chris said:

    Looks like you might be able to epoxy it back together and provide at least a temporary fix until you find a replacement.

    I thought of that too, but I would be nervous about it flying off the car on the highway. :classic_unsure: Then I would have to buy an entire wing kit!

     

    11 hours ago, Hemikiller said:

    Thanks for the link. Has anyone purchased these from NPD? The picture on the website doesn't work for me and I would like to make sure it looks the same as what I have on my car. I'm assuming my wing kit is OE from Ford, but you never know, it could have been messed with by a PO. I didn't see a part number on them.

  3. Can anyone recommend a vendor who sells the rear spoiler brackets? My drivers side one broke on me yesterday, so I have had to remove the spoiler for the time being…but I also have holes in my trunk lid that look crappy now. Can I buy just the brackets? I saw on another thread that these were made of cast metal, but mine look like they are plastic? 

    519AF88C-4F67-4598-AC68-F9F6AA750351.jpeg

    868DC03F-9AB2-42F9-93CE-0A49F0ABE65B.jpeg

    57123E20-071A-495A-9A0A-E1DEF3D3EF17.jpeg

  4. A productive day today! My son and I got everything put back together and even got out  for a test drive today. 
     

    I didn’t get any pictures of the installation of the sway bar, but it went pretty smoothly. I did have to unhook one exhaust pipe so I could have the room to sneak it by, but I must say that Addco bar was the definition of bolt on, very easy to do.
     

    First new leaf spring in!4EAC5290-4057-4779-B2BF-797056E52033.thumb.jpeg.ca88da6e91bf4e0fb465cf0b7c081b52.jpeg

    next we got the other one in, and dropped the axle, a little bit of wrestling and we had it on its pegs. This is all going just too smoothly at this point. I am not used to things working this way, so self doubt is creeping in…

    A019EF60-5041-42D1-A4D3-8C3E564E160E.thumb.jpeg.8372b8e483b239c9609221f0bc6a9af4.jpeg

    next, the shock holder/sway bar receiver thingys went in. I scratched up my fancy Rust-oleum paint job a bit, but I think it can be touched up later…

    DD3E9016-E2EC-49ED-BD4F-C2345FECE108.thumb.jpeg.0df9c2f95a43f629435019259b689e77.jpeg

    That previously mentioned self doubt got the best of me temporarily, and I had to pause the installation for a little bit until Kilgon answered a question on the shackles for me. (I made another post about that issue) I thought it looked a little strange with the shackles pointed forward like this, but the springs were unloaded and my self doubt was unnecessary. As I jacked up the pumpkin, the shackles moved to their expected position  

    36CBEDF7-59D7-4496-AFF5-FFE3DB64BCB4.thumb.jpeg.b6ef5c6cbf01365b5120fb71c8c922ef.jpeg

    I was a little apprehensive about the front bolts as well, but all for naught! Eaton makes a hell of a leaf spring install kit  

    8278D8A5-5E84-46F8-A45C-5E3BEFEBF3FD.thumb.jpeg.09cd0e1697b3e48cd4af3d372a1da97b.jpeg
     

    Next we got the shocks in. Man the passengers side shock was a pain to tighten the top on! I had to damn near climb in the trunk to reach it  

    7005CA07-A057-4E1E-8537-22DCAB876B17.thumb.jpeg.882e9cb74e40a9a30ded46d37b4476ef.jpeg
     

    So now from the end of my drive shaft to the rear bumper, it looks like 1973 again! 
    53C2D497-420C-48EB-9CD0-885429AAEA05.thumb.jpeg.c8e77409403be737c164a107dffdf1e2.jpeg

    The contrast between the before and after is pretty amazing…E7CCF388-311C-4920-A127-3EEDF27E51CC.thumb.jpeg.af3fb0a533d49da25f15356ceefaa4b9.jpeg56845118-18D6-45BD-BDE5-8C5C8B3B9E01.thumb.jpeg.4692a8be811dd29db5a5cce258683c92.jpeg

     

    All in all, I’m pretty happy with the new stance. It’s a touch more extreme than I thought it would be…but I definitely accomplished the goal of getting that ass end up! CB8A48F4-7C5E-4086-95D4-3490B8E0665B.thumb.jpeg.991d4df5a798ac303841b2a2fa2c7cdb.jpeg

     

    • Like 1
  5. My son and I were starting to put the rear suspension back in the Mustang today, everything was going great until we got the new leaf springs in…the springs look like they are too short, the shackles are pointing towards the front of the car. I called Eaton and they said that I might be able to use a rachet strap or something? I need to compress the springs in some way to get the shackle pointed toward the rear. Any ideas? These are +2” springs, so I suppose that will make it all the more difficult. Could I unhook the rear shackle and then use a jack to compress the spring till it rides the frame back far enough? 

    F08979B1-7819-476C-A5D8-35FE69904A32.jpeg

    6CF23EF9-6A2C-440C-89BD-5AC4F47EBEA8.jpeg

  6. 4 hours ago, SteveO_71 said:

    Just curious but is the floor in your garage concrete? When you park it in there, you may want to put down a layer of cardboard or some kind of vinyl sheet to keep moisture away from the underside.

    Yes it is, there’s usually a few pieces of cardboard under it for oil leaks under the engine bay. Probably wouldn’t hurt to put cardboard under the whole thing though, good idea! 

  7. 9 hours ago, Idaho Chris said:

    I'm with Tim.  If you think you might really get into a full restoration on the underside I would not put any coating on it that you will struggle to remove later.  You might just consider brushing on some Ospho and call it a day  

    I'm sure the days of winter driving and intentional rain driving are behind you anyway do serious further deterioration is unlikely.

    You are quite right that this car’s days of being driven in anything but beautiful weather are basically over. It lives in my heated, but not air conditioned garage all year but it does get pretty damn humid in Minnesota, so I just worry about this getting worse over time. How big of a pain in the ass will it be to take off whatever I apply later? If I send it out for a blast or dipping in the future? 

     

    6 hours ago, Fabrice said:

    From what I see on picts, rust that is flagged "light" in replies... well, I know i would not wait too long because the trunk floor is really not that thick (0.85mm) and that rust is eating it alive real fast!

    Yeah, that’s why I was asking if this is really bad rust or not…I have no idea. There are no holes in any of it, but it looks bad enough to me I guess. 
     

    Truth be told, I don’t know how long it will be before I can tackle a “real” restoration. But it will be at least a few years. My youngest is 9, so I’ve got at least 10 years (or more) before I’ll have time to really get after it. 

  8. 35 minutes ago, timachone said:

     

    From the pictures I think your undercarriage rust is only on the surface, so it's not bad and easy restorable, more a visual thing. What would bother me more is the rusty fuel evapor line. Please have a look at your fuel and brake lines - if they have some deeper rust pitting I would better change them. That's more important than the look of your undercarriage :thumb:

    Yeah, I didn't even know what that line was till I read your build thread. A couple years ago I had a shop put in a new gas tank, I should have done it myself but I had it in the shop because I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't stay running...they cleaned out and freshened up the entire fuel system from the tank to the carb (including a new tank)...but they must not have bothered to hook up that vent/evap line, maybe the aftermarket tank doesn't have a vent on it? I'll check it, I might even take the tank off this winter and see how bad the rust is above the tank as well, and hook up that vent line of course. :)

    • Fist Bump 1
  9. On 8/15/2021 at 8:05 AM, Omie01 said:

    Blaine, MN. Where are you? Nevermind, just saw you are in Zimmerman. We are not that far away. We should meet up sometime.

    Ha! Small world! I grew up right next door to you in Coon Rapids, my mom still lives there and I'm in the area often enough. I'd love to meetup sometime! Putting my rear suspension back together this week, then I'll need to get it out pound some pavement.

  10.  

    2 hours ago, MikeGriese said:

    You might want to consider looking for a place that does dry ice blasting.  These systems do a remarkable job of removing crud from anything while not damaging the underlying materials.  It works by firing dry ice pellets at high velocity at the target.  The pellets evaporate from solid to gas on impact, taking debris with it.  It is safe to use on rubber and electrical parts.  Your undercarriage will be a lot cleaner and you will have a lot better idea of what needs to be done.

     

    50 minutes ago, midlife said:

    Rust Encapsulator can be painted over, but when you first apply it, it will show the underlying rust texture on the metal.  When painted over, that texture will likely still show.  Same with Ospho-like products.  Ideally, you need to use some sort of a blasting agent to get back to smooth metal, although any rust pitting will still show as texture.

    The Concours Crowd likes Evaporust, but it will be difficult to apply to an undercarriage unless you have a rotisserie.

    And therein lies the rub. I'm just looking to sharpen it up a bit under there for now, not looking to go crazy and really tear into it. Someday I'll tear this car completely down, but that time has not yet come. I want to enjoy this car with my son for the next few years first. Does this metal look horrible? I'm no metallurgist, rust just looks like rust to me...I'm assuming that in the future I could blast or chemically dip the car and everything will be good to go for a proper paint job. Am I wrong in this assumption? Just looking to stop what's going on and minimize any future metal damage.

  11. 2 hours ago, Don C said:

    I would use the rust remover/encapsulator from Eastwood

    Rust Encapsulator Red Aerosol - Rust Preventive Paint - Rust Preventer - Eastwood

    Looks like a good product, if I were to apply this it wouldn't interfere with any potential repainting of the car would it? I assume this would come off in a chemical bath easy enough right? Do you just go hog wild with it and spray everything under there? I still have some blue paint on my frame rails, should I just hit everything with it?

×
×
  • Create New...