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73MustangCoupe

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Everything posted by 73MustangCoupe

  1. Thanks. It's been quite a journey, with a good way still to go, but it'll get there.
  2. Well, it's been a couple weeks since I posted an update, but I have been working on the Rickster. With the trunk floor and taillight panel installed, I moved on to the left quarter panel. I used an angle grinder to cut away most of it, leaving a thin rim around the edges, making sure not to dig into the structure underneath. At that point, I could find the spot welds around the perimeter and started drilling/grinding out the spot welds and peeling the remainder of the quarter panel flanges. The edge of the B-pillar was kind f bent up, and but I was able to kind of pull it
  3. Do you have a driver side front fender extension? I just pulled my fenders out of storage and discovered that the front fender extension on the driver side is missing. I know they have repops, but would rather have an original piece.
  4. That is a beautiful green. It's looking awesome. I'm looking forward to seeing it all in paint. Keep up the good work.
  5. I spent some quality time with the BFH and piece of wood, as well as hammer and dolly and got it to about a 1/2-3/4" out. As I worked the dings out, a chunk of paint fell out leaving a 1/4" rust hole showing. I didn't think that was a good sign, so I got out the wire wheel and cleaned all the paint and crud off, and discovered several rust holes ranging from about 1/16" to up to 1/4". Along the bottom, I found filler hiding more rust eroding the base of the B pillar. I can drill out and weld the rust holes and make patches to repair the bottom, but that won't address the fact that it is ou
  6. Thanks, kcmash. I'm learning as I go, but feel confident in my welding. I've straightened a few things, in the past, and started hammering and pulling on the B pillar in an attempt to get it back into position. It is getting a lot closer, but the tab on the bottom edge that is spot welded to the rocker behind the quarter panel broke off. It was compromised by some rust along a small part of that bottom edge. I can weld in a patch that will restore that part of the structure. The rest of the B pillar attachment is solid and appears to be rust free. So, I will try to straighten it, using
  7. With the floor pans in - well, except for the seat risers - it's time to move on to the trunk. The tail light panel as very rusted along the bottom and the trunk floor was pretty much completely rusted out. I drilled out, cut, and ground out the plug welds, and finally got the entire floor removed. The spot welds along the inner wheel house were also drilled out, and the trunk floor flange separated from the wheel house. On the passenger side, the wheel house metal was pretty thin and in some areas tore out. I made a patch to repair the area, and welded it in.
  8. Okay, I am working on body panel replacement. The passenger side rear quarter panel had some damage. I knew there was a thick layer of body filler, and got the rear quarter panel to install. I cut out the old panel, cut out the spot welds, and fit the new quarter into place. It matches up the door profile and gaps reasonably well, but when the door is opened, OMG!! It isn't even close to the B pillar. Here are some pics, so you can see what I am dealing with. Soo.... what do you think? Do I need to replace the passenger side B pillar. Thanks in advance.
  9. Wow! It's been a few weeks since I updated this thread. I have made some progress, though. I had previously cut out the passenger side floor pan. I got busy with the cutoff wheel and was able to get the C-channel subframe connectors removed and the residual weld cleaned off the front and rear frame. I set the floor pan in place and marked the edges. I was able to cut out the rusty metal leaving about 3/4" overlap to weld the floor pan to the trans tunnel and toe kick. A few relief cuts were made so that the floor laid in nicely, and along th
  10. That looks great! I wish I was that far along. Looking forward to your next update.
  11. I was thinking of that, too. I've had it clamped up for a day now, and have the trunk floor ready to go in. I've got the inside of the frame rails painted with POR15, and tomorrow morning will remove the brace and see how it lays. I do have some more tubing that I use for a spacer, so I will give that a try in the morning. Thanks for the tips.
  12. I was able to pull it straight. I started with some 1 inch, 1/8inch wall square tubing. I put it along the back just behind the flange that the tail light panel welds to, but when I started clamping it to the flange, it started to bow a little bit. It did pull the crossmember straighter, but not completely straight. In the middle of the night, I awoke with the idea to tack a piece of 1 inch angle to that square tube to stiffen it significantly, but not be so thick that my 6 inch clamps wouldn't fit around it. So today, I got the square tube and 1 inch angle cleaned up, welded together, an
  13. I was afraid of that. I will be working on trying to straighten it out tomorrow morning. I'm not sure what is the best way to straighten it. I've got some 2 inch square tube that I may be able to use with some clamps to help straighten it. I'll let you know. If you have ideas on how to straighten it, I'd be glad to hear them.
  14. I am working on my trunk floor and tail light panel. I've got the trunk floor and tail light panel out, and have cleaned up the frame rails, inner wheel house, etc. I've got the trunk floor set in place to mark the rails, and found that along the rear edge, that the trunk floor is straight, but the crossmember is curved slightly toward the front. A straightedge along the back flange reveals a 3/8" gap in the center. My question is - Is this normal? I know they make repops for this piece, but it's another $150 I didn't plan on spending. If you've dealt with this, or know about this,
  15. IA Rider's pictures are worth a thousand words. I just repaired this bracket, as the bottom of one side had rusted off. The lower legs are attached with two spot welds, and run to the bottom of the tail light panel. There is a small bump where each leg goes, for them to lay in. At the top, one spot weld is spec'd in the weld and sealant manual, but my bracket had 2 rather small tack welds. As with all of these cars, variance is not uncommon.
  16. I replaced mine not long ago as part of a total rebuild. My car was stripped so there wasn't much in the way. As others have said, double check your measurements, but it pretty much only goes in one way. Sliding it in place, the tabs locate it quite accurately. In my case, on one side, it didn't butt up to the frame rail as tightly as I would have liked, so I made a small patch to bridge the gap. With the core support in place, welding the tabs on the front will be more difficult, but it should be doable. Good luck.
  17. It looks really, really good, from what I can see in the picture. Nice job!
  18. In addition to what David said, if the floor pan doesn't drop down, you won't be able to plug weld it to the frame rails or the floor just behind the torque box. It's a pain to modify, but I don't see how you can avoid it.
  19. Hey Steve, I don't know if anyone has eliminated the rise, but I just finished the passenger side earlier today. I posted a write up and pictures in my build thread for The Rickster. I've done it by cutting out a small section of the inner wheelhouse, and modifying the flange to fit, and also by leaving the flange in place and making my patch to fit it. If you have any additional questions for me , I'll do my best to answer them for you. Good luck with your project. Ron
  20. With the torque box repaired, I got to work on the rear floor pan extension. They are not made for the 71-73 models, so we have to make due with the ones for the earlier models, but the wheel wells are different and the older models were flat, while our 71-73's have a small raised platform nearer the wheel well. The inner wheel house was solid, so I decided not to remove those spot welds, but to cut the old rusted pan about 1/2 inch from that edge. After drilling/grinding out the spot welds, I was able to remove the remnants of the rear floor pan extension. I made a cardboard t
  21. Well, it's been a week so I guess it's time for an update. I've been working on the passenger side rear floor pans. I had cut out the floor pans and rear floor pan extension. Cleaning out all the body filler and nasty welds was quite a chore. Two floor pans or parts of them were present, with some roof flashing pop riveted to cover a hole in the floor and covered with a thick layer of body filler. I started with the rear bulkhead that had rusted out and needed to be patched. I used some pieces of an old floor pan to make patches. The two corners and part of the t
  22. B229218, I hope you have a quick and complete recovery. Kilgon, I'm sorry about your S-I-L. I lost my twin brother to Covid on July 3rd, and it's still hard to wrap my head around. I do wear a mast when I go out, or when around other folks other than close family that I know are negative. Around here, so many people aren't wearing masks, and I just don't get it. Again, B229218, I wish you a speedy and complete recovery.
  23. I totally agree with Midlife. If I start burning through, I go to another area. I'll come back and smooth out the backside a bit, and then use a piece of copper to back up the weld and then repair the hole. Also, as Midlife said, since this is under the seat and the curves and beads nearby to take up any warpage that might occur, doing 1 inch beads and cooling won't bother anything. Especially if you have a copper backing plate to help soak up some of the heat. It does take a lot of practice, so don't let the frustration get to you. Just take a step back when you get frustrated, ta
  24. My daughter and her husband and kids have been visiting for Thanksgiving. While they were here, we dropped the headliner in her minivan and recovered it and reinstalled it. My son-in-law is a mechanic who specializes is Mercedes and BMW's, but can work on pretty much anything. He started bugging me about the 351 Cleveland for the Rickster. I had been planning to get it to the machine shop once I got the body panels replaced, but one thing led to another, and... well... the block is now sitting in the back of Truck Norris (F250 Superduty), ready to go to the machine shop Monday morning.
  25. Exciting time for the Rickster this week. The newly rebuilt AOD transmission came back from Monster Transmissions. One more big piece of the puzzle is ready for installation, when I get to that point. Yes, all those boxes in the background are parts, new and refurbed, to install when I get to that point. Stay tuned, more to come.
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