Jump to content


VIP Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by 73MustangCoupe

  1. Both the front (strut rod) crossmember and the engine crossmember are available now. I had to replace both in the Rickster last fall.
  2. Midlife, it was a male stripper. I'm not sure you'd want to see some middle aged guy in a bikini, . ;-) I think the wife was a little disappointed, though, when she realized the male stripper I hired wasn't an exotic dancer, bur dustless blasting guy. I'm still working on getting the blasting media out of all the cracks and crevices, but making progress. And when I use the compressed air to get that media out of small cracks and crevices, it makes dust, that gets everywhere, again. It's like vacuum, blow, vacuum, blow, lather, rinse, repeat. I'm making progress, though. I did get the honeycomb taillight panel attached. I used the new honeycomb panel to mark where the holes needed to go, and with much trepidation, drilled them out. It bolts in fine now, but I do need to tweak them just a bit. But I am happy with it, and can check off one more item off the list. Slowly, but surely.
  3. Mine were painted a matte black, so they disappeared behind the rear seat back.
  4. As others have noted, that crossmember is available. It is a pain to remove and replace, with 10 spot welds and about an inch of weld on each side. It would be easier to replace if the core support is out, but definitely doable even if it isn't. The core support and engine crossmember will keep the frame rails in perfect position, and it just slips up, into position and can be clamped in, and then have a field day welding all those overhead spot welds. Good luck!!!
  5. Well, last Saturday Dustless Blasting came out and stripped the new paint from the Rickster. What a mess. Rackerm, you were right. Sand is everywhere. I got it back into the garage before nightfall, and since then, I've been vacuuming, brushing, sweeping, wiping, vacuuming, wiping, sweeping, blowing it out, and then repeating it, again and again. I noted when they were stripping it, that in several areas, the paint seemed to be peeling instead of chipping off. On the fenders, I noticed some of the pieces of paint that peeled away from the primer were close to 1 x 2 inches. It appears that the paint didn't adhere to the primer very well at all. In retrospect, stripping it was the right move. I forgot to have the rear bumper filler blasted, so I used chemical paint stripper to strip it down to bare metal. When applying it, the paint was lifting from one end before I got to the other end. A quick run down the piece with a putty knife cleaned it completely. Hmmmm. No primer at all. Seriously. In a few areas, surface rust was also present. Again, stripping was a tough call, but it turns out to be the right call. So now, it's completely stripped, and sitting in the garage, again. I'm still working on finding someone to paint it. I think I've found someone to paint it, but he's concerned about fitting it into his paint booth along with all the parts so they can be all done together. So now I'm waiting, but working on things that won't interfere with painting. Slowly, but surely.
  6. Thanks guys for the words of encouragement and support. It was a really tough pill to swallow, but in the end, with all I've put into it, I need it to be right. I know with that lousy paint job, it would gnaw on me, every time I saw it, and it's good to know you agree that I'm doing the right thing. RD-72, you asked about the sending units. They are VDO brand. I got them from Summitt, IIRC. The oil pressure sending unit is VDO360 019. It's reads 0-80 PSI +/-2 PSI and the warning light kicks off at 8 PSI. I had to do some research as they have them with metric threads, different ranges, etc, but this one fit my Cleveland block. The water temp sending unit I purchased is the VDO 323 026. It goes to 250F, with the warning light going off at 209F. They have others that have higher warning light contact points, but they would require an adapter to fit into the block and I am hoping that the light going off at 209 will not be a problem. Anyway, you can get both of them at Summit, JEGS, etc. You can also check out the VD) gauges web site, www.vdo-gauges.com, to see what other sending units they may have that would fit your needs if you want a different range, size, etc. I hope that helps.
  7. After consulting with a couple of experienced body and paint guys, I decided that the only thing to do was to have the Rickster repainted. With that, it came down to "do I trust the prep work that was done before that paint was laid down?" Well, I don't. So, I have decided to have the paint stripped back to bare metal, so that the paint job can be done right. Dustless Blasting is coming out on Sep 25th, weather permitting. Five and a half months, and I'm right back where I was on April 3rd. Well, that's the latest update. More to come, soon.
  8. Enlisted US Army 1974-1978 Georgia Army National Guard 1978-1979 Commissioned US Army Reserve 2LT 1982-1984 US Army 1984-1995 US Army Reserve 2000-2011 retired Lieutenant Colonel
  9. For the upper panel that is not going to be saved, I take a grinding wheel and grind that panel very thin. Then the panel separating knife can tear it off (like foil) with only light tapping with a hammer.
  10. Thanks, Lazarus. It is kind of a neat color, although it isn't exactly what I was expecting. Yes, Midlife. I've heard stainless lines can leak after adding brake fluid, so I'm thinking of not adding any. ;-) Actually, I've heard you have to tighten them much tighter than steel or NiCopp lines. I will keep an eye out for leaks, though. Thanks. I got the car unmasked, and took a quick picture of the floor. No I can get the pedal box, brake booster and master cylinder, parking brake and bunches of Kilmat installed.
  11. Over the last few days, I've kept myself busy getting brakes installed on the Rickster. I'm running stainless steel pre-bent lines from Classic Tube, and they seem to fit okay. A few minor tweaks were needed to adjust the ends to mate with the wheel cylinders, but they installed without any major problems. It took a little looking at the service manual and YouTube, but I was able to get the rear brakes installed. I had previously cleaned the brake drums and painted them gloss black. I think they will look nice behind the polished aluminum wheels. Front brakes were pretty straightforward. They mated up to the stainless hardlines, with Russell flexible lines. As I torqued each of the bolts, I tagged it with a dot from a paint pen so I would know it had been done. Yesterday, I masked the interior and today, I sprayed the fire wall, floor, and roof with epoxy primer. Now it's on to the brake booster and pedal box, and then some Kilmat, the parking brake, and master cylinder. Slowly, but surely.
  12. I'm not an expert, but I have rebuilt a Ford 9 inch, and that pinion should be rock solid and not moving around like that.
  13. In the bottom picture of the spring and cable, that one nut is inside the connector and one outside. Both nuts should be outside, so they can jam against themselves. I am not in the shop right now, so I don't have the service manual handy, but I know there is an adjustment procedure in there, as I just installed the entire braking system over the last 2 days.
  14. The Rickster is back from the paint shop!!! And it is soooo disappointing. After 5 months, the Rickster is finally home. I was so excited to get it back, after being delayed by more than 3 months beyond what was initially promised. And from a distance, it looks nice, albeit a good bit darker than what I expected. It's more of a Dark Gunmetal Green than the Dark Green Metallic, but it's okay. I'm not crazy about it, but it is a neat color. Alas, there were so many other problems, that it is going to have to be redone. It won't have to be stripped, but it will need to be sanded, some dings filled (why the paint shop didn't address them, I will never understand), sealed, and then repainted. Apparently, the shop owner who was supposed to be doing the work, turned it over to an employee who did a really crap job. Runs and sags in the clearcoat. Not filling irregularities in the sheet steel. Burning through the clear and paint on the edges in a couple places. Along the upper edges of the front fenders, where they bolt to the frame, they left unpainted, with only some overspray and no clear. And small amounts of rust along the edge? WTF?!! And to cap the stack, along the lower doors and the lower rockers and quarters, the paint is much lighter in color and the clear is, well, not very clear. To answer the question everyone is dying to ask, No, I didn't pay him the final amount, and will take steps to recover the initial payment. I have been talking to another shop who said they can fix it for me for a reasonable fee, with no payment due until the job is done. In the meantime, with the Rickster home, I've been able to get the brakes installed on all four corners, brake lines run, and later today, will shoot some epoxy to finish covering the passenger compartment floor. So, progress is being made, despite the paint shit, er, I mean paint shop, setback. Progress, slowly, but surely.
  15. I had taken the engine to the machine shop back in early December. They had said it would take about 2 weeks, which turned into closer to 6 weeks. The owner, I found out, was winding down, moving into retirement, and the shop seemed a bit disorganized, but they had gotten decent reviews. Once I got the motor home, I got it on the engine stand, sprayed it with a generous coating of WD-40, and bagged it. Every couple weeks, I would pull the bag off, spray it with more WD-40, and recover it. After the Rickster went off to paint, it was time to get to work on the motor. I cleaned it, checked it, and then cleaned it again. I checked the crankshaft main bearing clearances with plastigage and all were in spec. I checked the rod bearing clearances with plastigage, as well, and all were right on the money. Great!!! Pistons and rings were installed and everything seemed normal enough. Cam installation was straightforward. I installed a Lunati roller cam and lifters. I got the head gaskets and Trickflow cylinder heads bolted on and torqued. The intake manifold was next and that is where things started going sideways. The intake bolts on the Cleveland, of course, are angled, and the intake must be matched to the head quite precisely. I was having no luck getting them to line up. I determined that the manifold was sitting to high. The block had been decked, but only enough to square it. The machinist couldn't remember exactly how much he had taken off, which I found a little concering. Hmmm. I took the intake manifold to the shop, and they informed me that the Edelbrock Performer 2V intake manifold had been previously milled. We decided that they should take .020 to .030 off each side and see where it sat. In the end, they took off .027 off each side, which was needed to true up one side that was out of square. Great. The intake manifold now sits where it need so the gaskets will seal it properly. Before buttoning it all up, though, I measured for new pushrods, which turned out to be 8.100. Got them ordered figuring it would take the normal 2 days to get here. Eight days later, they arrived, having traveled across much of the USA. Pushrods installed, roller rockers installed and lash set, and finally, the valve cover gaskets can go on. But wait, the rollers are keeping the stock valve covers that I had thoroughly cleaned, removed dents, and painted. The right side actually fit, but the driver side was definitely interfering. New valve covers were ordered and arrived a few days later. I got them intalled, and they fit fine, but seem kind of tall. I am going to use the FAST EZ EFI system, because I have it from an older project that stalled out a few years back. I put the throttle body on the intake and set the ram air cleaner box on it, only to find that it fouled on the valve covers. Soooo, I ordered a 1/2" spacer and now have a maybe 1/4" clearance. With all that sorted, I got the distributor which had a busted vacuum advance nipple, so I got a new vacuum advance for it, I got the tiny clip removed and then the first screw. Both screws were rusty, but the first one came out okay, taking my time and using penetrating oil and heat. The second screw decided to just wring off about halfway down the hole. I tried to drill it out, but the drill bit broke off, so I have been fighting the thing fixed for 6 or 7 weeks now. I took it to a local machine shop, but they were too backed up to help me out. They did tell me, though, that the machine shop had done the machine work on the block had had a lot of problems with quality control lately, and had ruined a few blocks and cylinder heads. I felt okay about the crank and rod bearing clearances, but hadn't checked the bores. Soooo, off comes the intake, valve cover, rockers and pushrods, cylinder heads, etc. I got out the dial bore gauge and micrometer, and measured each bore at the bottom, just above the piston, middle of the run and at the top of the bore, front to back, and side to side. Six measurements on each cylinder. Each cylinder was pretty uniform, with the 48 measurements ranging from 4.03035 to 4.03102. Most of the cylinders were within about .00030 to .00040, although some of that can be just variation inherent in measuring the diameter of a cylinder. I am satisfied, though, that they didn't screw it up, so I got new intake manifold gaskets, and got the motor put back together, once again. Back to the distributor, I finally found a machine shop that said they might be about to repair it, so I'm hoping that in the next few days, I'll get good news from them. Then I can get the distributor rebuilt, and installed. I did look into a new Pertronix billet distributor, but it didn't fit under the air box. I just found that they do make shorter Pertronix distributors, but at this point, I'm waiting for the machine shop. So that is my engine building saga. Thanks to Don at Ohio Mustang for helping me out with AC and power steering brackets. It's coming together, slowly, but surely. Hopefully, the Rickster will be back soon, and we can get that motor filling the engine bay.
  16. Well, it's been close to 3 months since I've posted an update, but that doesn't mean I haven't been doing anything. I've gotten the instrument cluster back together with LED bulbs installed. I got the steering column painted and reassembled, but the turn signal switch is binding, so I'll have to go back through it, one more time. I got the front and rear seats reupholstered with new foam and seat covers from TMI. Most of the wrinkles seen in the picture were worked out, and overall, the seats look pretty good. I also cut open the top of the new fuel tank and installed the new Tanks, Inc. electric fuel pump. I pretty much did what Autoedit did in the YouTube video, except I used a body saw instead of a hole saw, and oriented the fuel reservoir away from the sending unit to keep it from interfering, but otherwise did pretty much the same. A little work with the hammer and dolly got the lip flattened out and lining up with the sealing ring pretty well. Once the steel retaining ring is placed on the inside edge of the hole and the screws tightened down, it straightens the edge up even better. The retaining ring is installed and the screws inserted to secure it. The Viton washers were removed so that they would not get damaged when the retaining ring was tacked into the opening. After tack welding between each of the screw hole locations, the welds were ground down to make the top flush. Then the tank was cleaned with WD-40 and a magnet, plus wiping it out with some paper towels, and then more WD-40. It was a new tank, but I had gotten from a guy on Facebook marketplace, and there was a little but of crud inside it. It wasn't rust, but I'm not sure what it was. It took a little bit, but I was able to get the tank cleaned out really well. Then, it was time for the gasket sealer, top, and all those screws. Overall, the tank came out really well, and I'm pleased with it. Also, I've kept busy, building a motor for the Rickster. With all the Covid stuff going on, it took a while to get the cylinder heads shipped, but I finally got everything I needed. I had to hit up Don at Ohio Mustang Supply a few times for brackets, etc. since some were missing. I got the Power steering pump and brackets from him. It's a 50 year old pump of unknown history, so I went ahead and rebuilt it. Twice. When they say try not to let the spider come apart, there is a reason for that. My first attempt at reassembly, I got it wrong, and after reinstalling the pump discovered it wouldn't turn very easily. I pulled it all apart, went back through it, and found I had the slippers upside down. DOH!!! After the second or third time putting the spider together, I did develop a feel for it, and it's not difficult, but the first time or two, it can be pretty frustrating. Once reassembled, I double checked and it turned easily, and after installation on the motor, it only required 4 in-lbs of force to turn the pulley, well, within the factory spec of 2-15 in-lbs. Tomorrow, I'll post about the engine build but that's enough for now. Except to say, that the paint shop says the Rickster is very close to done, and should be back in my garage in the next week or so. WooHoo!!! Then the real fun begins - reassembly.
  17. OMG!! That hurts just to read about it. I can't imagine how bad it was for you. I'm glad to hear you are on the mend, and hope you recover quickly.
  18. Here is a picture of the cowl and you can see the drain on the lower outside corner. There is one drain on each side. I hope that helps.
  19. I think you're asking a fair price. If it wasn't so expensive to ship it, I'd jump on it. I did some quick checking, though, and the shipping cost was just outrageous.
  20. It appears that that distributor shaft is toast. Those holes should be perfectly round. With those edges, I would worry that any new pin would be more easily broken. If it were me, I'd replace the high volume oil pump with a standard oil pump, and also check the oil and oil filter for any metal bits that might suggest a complete rebuild is needed. If the oil comes out clean, with a new pump and new distributor shaft (or distributor) you should be good. Of course, that is just me, and I'm probably over cautious. I hope there's nothing else wrong in that mill that a new dizzy can't fix. Good luck.
  21. I'd stick with the 73 heads. You've already got work done on them, and they will flow plenty of air for the cam you're using. Unless you are going with a much larger than stock cam, the 73 heads will flow plenty of air to max out the power your cam will allow.
  22. Tuesday afternoon I got my care package from Don at Ohio Mustang. It had the instrument cluster bezel, center bezel, glove box bezel as well as the new instrument cluster lens and some other parts. Wednesday morning I had a little surgery on my right hand, and being right handed I've been a bit hobbled, but I'm still getting things done. I got the instrument cluster housing cleaned up and painted with satin white and silver on the inside of the gauge housings. I got the speedometer and fuel gauge mounted, and went ahead and put in the lens and laid the new bezel over it, It looks so much better. The idiot lights were sent out to Rocketman for the tach conversion. It came back today, so I'll get it installed tomorrow. I also took the AC vents apart, cleaned them and hit them with some paint (adhesion promoter and SEM Trim black), and they now look like new. I purchased the center bezel with the gauge pod. I purchased VDO gauges which are round and kind of a fit, but not really. I got out the Dremel and opened up the sides just a little so that the gauges slip in from the front and the screw ring secures them from the front. I think they came out pretty good, but if I had to do it over again, I would make a bracket and secure them from the back and not Dremel out the openings. I still need to do a tiny bit of touch, but overall, I'm happy with how it turned out. I've got dual sensor oil pressure and water temp sending units on order so I can have both the warning lights and gauges operational without trying to find a second port or adding a Tee and worry about interference with other stuff nearby. I'm hoping that it works as slick as it sounds like it should. I did talk to the paint shop on Thursday. They haven't started yet. I'm pretty disappointed, but trying to be patient. Well, until Monday, anyway. Sooo, that is the update for this week. More to come, soon.
  23. Thanks, Cowman. I used the dark charcoal metallic from NPD, National Parts Depot. Part number is VP-4464.
  24. I am deeply saddened to hear about your loss, but can't begin to imagine how you feel. Our thoughts and prayers are with you and you family.
  25. Wow, Chris! That pump looks new - No - better than new. It looks awesome. You did a great job on it.
  • Create New...