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1973stang

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About 1973stang

Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    1973 mustang
    Convertible
    351C 4V engine

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  • Location
    Los Angeles
  • Region
    Southwest

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  • Sex
    Undisclosed

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  1. Thank you all for all the inputs AND SPECIALLY GUIDING ME IN RIGHT DIRECTION. NOW I HAVE ENOUGH MONIES LEFT TO DO Tranny swap to manual (T5 hopefully) Got the project completed and the ride is just so much better. This is what I did Lowered Car 1.5" in front and 2" in rear (from Eaton springs...street ride firmness) Chassis Connectors Front and rear Sway bars Rear traction control bars New rims (from American Racing) and new tires Thanks again Rush facebook photos hosting
  2. Hello All, Just converted rear drum to Disc (SSBC)...along with improved handling (my previous thread) Kit did not include rear parking brake cable. Current one for drum brakes is too short. I read people had to purchase new ones (can't find real leads, part#s etc)...or modifications. Can I get which one I can buy. Rush
  3. I am upgrading the handling of the car based on answers to my previous thread. All parts are ordered and work will begin end of the month. THOUGHT to convert Drum to Disc for the rear. I researched the forum and there are different setups being discussed and got a bit confusing...so I thought to ask specifics. I HAVE POWER BRAKES. Disc in front and Drum in rear. 1) Which kit would you reco for this job? 2) Do I need to change the booster to handle disc in the rear? 3) Do I need to add proportional valve also?? Any other things to consider. Rush
  4. Thanks guys for saving me monies, So this is what I gather from answers here and researching other posts. Connectors (Drake Scott or Global West ....any one better than other????) Front End:- Sway bars New Coil (want to lower car...any suggestions for vendor???) KYB G2 shocks Rear End:- New leaf springs 4 and 1/2 (any particular vendor?????) 1" BLOCKS to lower the car SWAY BAR or SHELBY STYLE Traction Bar (OR BOTH ????) KYB G2 shocks Does this sound about right??? Rush
  5. I'm not going to comment on handling as I'm learning all that stuff as I go as well. I am going to comment off topic about your sciatica issues. I have a shot right hip ( getting older is really starting to suck ), so lowering my car is NOT an option and I have to put my seat back all the way just to get out and I'm "short"!! As for your sciatica, have you tried a GOOD chiropractor who is very well experienced with acupuncture?? With my hip issues, I also had sciatic problems from pressure on the periformus muscle deep in the glute. Acupuncture fixed it and the pain has not returned, but I do have to avoid putting undue pressure on my glutes during workouts. I just know I'm going to get sh*t for this, but!!! Haha Stanglover, Love it totally. My problem is L4-L5 compressed from Skydiving accident. I manage it really good w/ targetted morning stretches. Not levelled car on a bad day makes it worst. Thanks to stretching, I have maybe 5-10 bad days a year now.
  6. THANK YOU GUYS AGAIN!!!! Found the problem. I have Air adjust shocks in the rear and driver side was all flat. I had installed air-adjust, so I can level the car (i have sciatica...and driver side leaf spring is sagging very bad) So the new question Since I have to change the leaf-spring, AND lower my car AND change to Bullit Wheels 1) Should I go w/ new leaf-spring and different shocks OR go with multi-link suspension in rear. ALSO the roads and freeway around my house are not in great condition...so I need to improve on less road-feel also. Again hoping for some sage advice. Rush
  7. Thanks for all the replies. Maybe I need to provide a bit more info on few near mishaps. THIS IS MY EVERYDAY CAR (SoCal..Los ANgeles) 1) On a rainy day...just making a sharp left turn (from stop)...the car rear end let loose lane to lane....surprise I did not hit anybody. 2) ON A DRY DAY on freeway:- I had to make a rather fast move to avoid a stupid driver (~60mph)...the car rear end just let loose...Dont know how I survived that with trucks flying by. 3) in this bad rain (relative)..the rear feels very loose (don't have any other car. 3) I know my convertible requires connectors (great idea..thanks). I want to give this car to my SON and want to make sure it is a safe car.... I have original leaf springs (pretty sure requires replacement)....so I was thinking might as well get multi-link rear. So how
  8. Hello guys, Back for some more sage advice. 73' Convertible, 351C 4BBL, C6 Automatic I am starting the project of improving my car handling. Reading posts; this is what I am planning to do. 1) Brace the car 1st:- Which braces do you guys reco? I saw a post w/ straight brace along the car length. Shouldn't there be a X-brace? If yes anybody has recos... 2) Front and rear independent suspension:- Leaning towards StreetorTrack.com kits 3) rear wheel disc brakes:- Again Streetortrack.com kit. Rush
  9. I got mine from Motorcity Mustang (vendor on this site). IF he does not have it call Bo Chung @ Mustang Service Center in SoCal (pricier...but he had one) 818-765-1196
  10. Hi All, Coming for some sage advise again. Which one should I get 3 row or 4 row Al radiator ??? Looking at Champion cooling. I have the stock (original) 3 row Brass radiator (which was rodded recently) Yesterday was hot in the area (100+). Even on surface streets the car heat-up to 210F and stayed there (25 mile driving)....did not go higher. The weekend before, went upto Malibu thru' the canyons. Going up the hill (a bit steep)...the temp reached 205...but promptly dropped to 180 on decent. Under normal conditions (not hot or high heat)...the temp hovers around 185-195F Robert-shaw 180 Thermostat. Carb was adjusted using vac guage to slight rich....vac of 17-18 Fan shroud..properly set. fan w/clutch Rush
  11. Kit, I thought it was new. Even Summit Racing has this one (they maybe selling it on amazon) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fss-58022 It does not say re-manufactured (other compressors on Summit Racing do) But if Four Seasons is not good...then it does not matter. the other option was http://www.dallasmustang.com/air-conditioning-compressor-1969-1973-york-o-ring-new.html?gclid=CJ7Bs7PcscACFQxp7AodP0cAfA But it does not have the clutch. Rush
  12. Hi All, I am looking at replacing my old stock A/C compressor w/ Four Seasons compressor w/ Clutch http://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-58022-Compressor/dp/B004AF76PS I could not find reviews on Four Seasons products. Has anybody used this or any other compressor from them. Any feedback Thanks Rush
  13. but you didn't say the problem you are having. any part of the system you can still get, the factory system is usually better then a retrofit. 72HCODE, when I turn on the A/C, the car becomes very sluggish. Also the car starts over-heating (normally does not go over 190-195F even in very hot weather) IT goes over 210F...but I turn-off A/C right away....hardly use it even in hot weather. Also, the car idles rough, lots of vibration vs shaking. Rush
  14. Car 1973 351C 4V Convert w/ Factory A/C Having problems w/ A/C and want to upgrade to R134. Looking at Classic Auto Air kit CAA6-124 (after talking w/ CAA). 1) Does any one have experience w/ this one? 2) What was the experience? 3)Was the kit complete? Did you have to make your own plates/adapters to install the compressor?? Rush
  15. I had a hot running engine and went thru' everything to get it running at max 190-195F I would start w/ these...because cooling flush/radiator or fan will not help w/o the following done 1st 1) Make sure there are no leaks in the cooling system. Pressure test and raise it up to chk. I had water-pump and heater core leak. 2) Chk if the carb is set correct. IF it is running to LEAN...the engine heats up too. I just had this problem. Only a 1/2 turn to RICH made a difference. USE VAC to set the carb....highly reco. that. 3) Also check the spark plug...make sure they are of Heat Range 5 (spec) or 4 (if you are in hot location). 4) Correct thermostat...Robert-shaw did the trick for me.
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