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Everything posted by MustangMyWay

  1. Although, using seam sealer on a lap joint weld would prevent rust causing moisture.
  2. We seem to be the minority. I was surprised to learn that many if not most 1,2,3 fans are actually not fans of their taillights.
  3. I wont put the currently available aftermarket louvers on my car. They look too cheap. But I NEED to get a set of these.
  4. I dig where it's going. My only input would be to increase the radius of the pinstripe tape to match the radius of the center square.
  5. Impressive. I like where your head is. The '69 dash is my favorite too. I used the dustless blasting too and despite what I was told, it flashed by morning. You wouldn't be in the Detroit area would you?
  6. My hinges were in good shape but the bushings needed replacement. instead of the regular cheap and simple rebuild kit I spent the big bucks, $72, on "Mustang Steve's" upgrade kit that is particularly good for those hinges with rounded out holes. The kit is robust with much bigger bushings that are enclosed and lubricated with a zert. I will never have any loose issues.
  7. I bought some additional braces for the roof having read a post here about how soft the roof can be, particularly when sanding out filler. Note that the factory braces only fit well in it's original location because the roof is more narrow to the front and wider in the back. The rear had to be shaped some. The front actually fit perfectly when I tacked it in above the roof rail instead of under. It's the best fitting of the three. I now have a most rigid roof. Cribbing is required to get them tight. I learned the hard way. I had to cut it out and re-weld.
  8. I haven't updated this build in a year but there has been progress. I've been frequenting the Facebook page with some updates. I have installed a free floating three link axle with watts link from Street or Track. The truck and tail panel steel has been replaced. The three link requires a hole to be cut. Street or Track's 1970 pan doesn't fit so I fabricated my own. For those that have tried to fit big tires, you know that the front of the inner wheel wells are shallow on the classic Mustangs. I learned of a modification of cutting it open and welding in a panel to maximize the space without tubbing.
  9. Yes, Melodies and Memories the day after the Dream Cruise. I never miss it.
  10. I too live in the Detroit area, Roseville. I hope to see your car at a show next year sometime.
  11. But the '69 Mach 1 had a black out hood without painted rockers, Scott. And it looks fantastic. Painting the rocker panels tends to give a slimmer appearance if that is something you would like. I find your car refreshing without them. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
  12. I don't believe the MII is the worst driving at all. It was superior to the Previous Mustangs. There are still at least a half of a dozen different Manufacturers building MII kits for various cars today, even non-Fords. I have installed this kit one my '73 but I will be of no use to claim its attributes. I haven't driven the car yet as it is still being built. Plus, I bought it as a roller so I have no reference to how it drove before. I can't say how it compares to other current front suspension kits but I feel certain that it will be better than stock. On a side note, Cutting out the big shock towers allows for Modular engine swaps. What about rear suspension? Currently, my car is at Street or Track getting their '67-'70 kit installed as a test subject. With just a few tweaks, it fits. Now I have to wait for my 9" floating axle.
  13. What about the idea of fabricating a piece of steel to fill the gap and entirely welding it in? Was it originally designed to be a flexible point? Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
  14. About fifteen years ago I discovered an excellent method. Fine grit sand in the sandblaster removed all white decroated plastic and what remained looked like a new plastic part. No painting. Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
  15. Every underdash 7123 harness I've worked on (nearly 50 so far) have this three pin plug. Do you have an example where the plug is not part of the underdash? Randy, I don't want to step on your toes or start a peeing match here. I just don't want guys taking their dash apart looking for wiring that is not there. I think it was part of a convenience group. The map light plug is not on every harness - the map light plug is a three pin plug on about a foot long or so long lead of wire. It runs up the left side of the center dash bezel and ends up high by the dash pad. I think they all have the console three pin plug - it is a short lead by the heater / radio plugs. Also there is older thread on here about one of the guys making the wiring out of a 3 or 4 pin trailer plug. I think Iyman - one of the moderators figured out how to make it. My dash is out and I searched for the plug with print in hand. No success. But my car is a late year, July 1973. Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
  16. In this picture you can see how far my ten inch wheels stick out (no tire yet). I'm considering shortening the axle and flares. A four link kit with adjustable coil over shocks will allow me to tune the height and ride. The reconditioned wheels are a bit dirty but will look delicious with rubber mounted. Sorry, these pictures have been inappropriately rotated. I don't see how to correct it.
  17. I didn't do anything all summer but now it's winter and I've been laid off. I finished cutting out both wheel wells to accommodate 30 inch tires. I even removed about an inch and a half of rocker to get the room. It's not tubbed but I excised the outer curve of the outer wheel well. I welded 3/16" round stock to the cut edge then I connected the apex of the well to the round stock with some 18 ga. steel. I also had to replace the part of the quarter between the well and the B pillar on both sides.
  18. What's the reason for using foam in between instead of the brace simply contact the roof?
  19. I'm in the Dynomat (or equivalent), mass back carpet and nix the jute camp. I've had much success with rain accidents with the T-tops removed (different car).
  20. I find cup brushes and wire wheels good for more contoured surfaces. For flat surfaces I like flap discs about 120 grit. Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
  21. I have an in-line pump mounted on a front frame rail on my other Mustang for 6 years that I can speak for, without any issues. I had to install a fuel regulator to bring the pressure down to about 7psi from 13. Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
  22. I have a complete set of spindles, calipers and splash shields on metro Detroit Craig's list for $225. Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk
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