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Posts posted by MustangMyWay

  1. On 3/6/2020 at 1:32 PM, Don C said:

    To answer an earlier question about having an overlap when installing the floor pan, the overlap will make it a little stronger and easier to weld, but the benefit is short-lived. The overlap provides a place where moisture can penetrate and take a long time to dry out, giving it plenty of time to rust out the edges of your new floor pan.


    Although, using seam sealer on a lap joint weld would prevent rust causing moisture.

  2. My hinges were in good shape but the bushings needed replacement. instead of the regular cheap and simple rebuild kit I spent the big bucks, $72, on "Mustang Steve's" upgrade kit that is particularly good for those hinges with rounded out holes.

    The kit is robust with much bigger bushings that are enclosed and lubricated with a zert. I will never have any loose issues.







  3. I bought some additional braces for the roof having read a post here about how soft the roof can be, particularly when sanding out filler.

    Note that the factory braces only fit well in it's original location because the roof is more narrow to the front and wider in the back.

    The rear had to be shaped some. The front actually fit perfectly when I tacked it in above the roof rail instead of under. It's the best fitting of the three. I now have a most rigid roof.




    Cribbing is required to get them tight. I learned the hard way. I had to cut it out and re-weld.



  4. I haven't updated this build in a year but there has been progress. I've been frequenting the Facebook page with some updates.


    I have installed a free floating three link axle with watts link from Street or Track.


    The truck and tail panel steel has been replaced.






    The three link requires a hole to be cut. Street or Track's 1970 pan doesn't fit so I fabricated my own.





    For those that have tried to fit big tires, you know that the front of the inner wheel wells are shallow on the classic Mustangs. I learned of a modification of cutting it open and welding in a panel to maximize the space without tubbing.






  5. I don't believe the MII is the worst driving at all. It was superior to the Previous Mustangs.

    There are still at least a half of a dozen different Manufacturers building MII kits for various cars today, even non-Fords.

    I have installed this kit one my '73 but I will be of no use to claim its attributes. I haven't driven the car yet as it is still being built. Plus, I bought it as a roller so I have no reference to how it drove before.

    I can't say how it compares to other current front suspension kits but I feel certain that it will be better than stock.


    On a side note, Cutting out the big shock towers allows for Modular engine swaps.


    What about rear suspension? Currently, my car is at Street or Track getting their '67-'70 kit installed as a test subject. With just a few tweaks, it fits.

    Now I have to wait for my 9" floating axle.


    • Like 1

    Randy, I do not think that plug is in all 71-3's

    I believe that only came on cars as part of an option group

    Every underdash 7123 harness I've worked on (nearly 50 so far) have this three pin plug. Do you have an example where the plug is not part of the underdash?


    Randy, I don't want to step on your toes or start a peeing match here.

    I just don't want guys taking their dash apart looking for wiring that is not there. I think it was part of a convenience group.

    The map light plug is not on every harness - the map light plug is a three pin plug on about a foot long or so long lead of wire. It runs up the left side of the center dash bezel and ends up high by the dash pad.

    I think they all have the console three pin plug - it is a short lead by the heater / radio plugs.

    Also there is older thread on here about one of the guys making the wiring out of a 3 or 4 pin trailer plug. I think Iyman - one of the moderators figured out how to make it.

    My dash is out and I searched for the plug with print in hand. No success. But my car is a late year, July 1973.


    Sent from my SPH-L900 using Tapatalk

  7. In this picture you can see how far my ten inch wheels stick out (no tire yet). I'm considering shortening the axle and flares. A four link kit with adjustable coil over shocks will allow me to tune the height and ride.



    The reconditioned wheels are a bit dirty but will look delicious with rubber mounted.



    Sorry, these pictures have been inappropriately rotated. I don't see how to correct it.

  8. I didn't do anything all summer but now it's winter and I've been laid off.


    I finished cutting out both wheel wells to accommodate 30 inch tires.



    I even removed about an inch and a half of rocker to get the room.



    It's not tubbed but I excised the outer curve of the outer wheel well.

    I welded 3/16" round stock to the cut edge then I connected the apex of the well to the round stock with some 18 ga. steel.

    I also had to replace the part of the quarter between the well and the B pillar on both sides.


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