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wrshog's Achievements


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  1. Time to pursue other interests. 1971 Mustang convertible 547 ci big block built by Performance concepts in Forest Lake MN 500+ hp; 600+ ft lb tq on the dyno C6 trans shift kit built by Rick's transmission Forest Lake MN 9" Ford rear end 3.00-1 gears, Richmond gear posi built by Ricks also New front seats, have the originals MSD ignition, distributor curve done by ....... some guy out west. I forgot his name but got it from this site Good rubber and I have an extra set of front tires for it New suspension and exhaust (headers are a bit old) Sourced out of FL about 4 years ago.. Body is solid but it would benefit from some new paint. Looks great going down the road. And in pics. Call with questions. Wyoming MN area $25k OBO Bill 763-370-3959
  2. I'm late to the party here but I am running DynoMax VT's on my 71 vert. Hooker long tubes and 3" in 2.5" out. I love them so far. 547 CI BBF and no drone. Worth a try?
  3. Thanks for staying with me on this mjlan. For some reason I could not get through my head the impact on caster until now..... It just did not register for what ever reason. Thanks.
  4. That's why I asked what others wheelbase measurements actually are. I know it effects alignment when changed and I have the car going in for an alignment next week so I want to have the wheelbase set before I go have that done. What I think I should do is raise the front end and loosen the strut rods and let it go where it wants to be. Measure both sides to make sure they are the same and then tighten them down. I feel like that would reduce any undo stress or binding on the front suspension. Thoughts?
  5. Totally understand the impact of changing the wheel base on the alignment but curious as to why when it all goes together without any pressure or force from adjustments to the strut rods it has a .5" longer wheel base. If I leave it there, where it "wants to be" what is the impact on the handling of the vehicle?
  6. Here's my thought.... I am considering getting a piece of Plexiglass and constructing a plenum for my car. Should be easy enough to clamp to the hood and trace out the pattern, seal it to the hood with some sort of rubber or foam "gasket" and do the same for the air cleaner. I would most likely leave the intake scoops open, no flappers. Anyone ever tried this or have input on why it would not work or other problems? If it works out it might be kind of neat to put some mirrored window tint on the back side of it so it reflects the engine compartment with the hood open??
  7. After replacing the lower control arms and the strut rod bushings I measured out the wheelbase on my car and it seems to want to be at 109.5" on both sides, I have adjusted the strut rods to bring it to 109" but I am just curious as to others actual measurements. Does the .5" really matter or make a difference?
  8. Holy $#!+ now that is a modification....... I've taken so much from this site I am glad I was finally able to give a little something back. What motor mounts are you guys using? I have the tall Ford Motorsports valve covers and while close they fit and can be removed easily. The back of the DS valve cover is at least 2 inches from the brake booster. Yours looks much closer. I have no idea what motor mounts are in mine. They were in there when I bought the car. Mine valve covers are out from the booster the length of the stud + 1/4". My issue was with the master cylinder not the booster.
  9. Holy $#!+ now that is a modification....... I've taken so much from this site I am glad I was finally able to give a little something back.
  10. I had replaced the booster with a new one and it had a rounded end, actually like a cap nut on the end. I had no problems but that's good info.
  11. The driven gear was not engaging with the drive gear in the tranny. I ordered the "blue" 16 tooth gear seen here: http://www.transmissioncenter.org/Ford_Speedometer_Gears.htm and the speedo works, however, it is off by about 10 mph and the calculators I have found say I need a 17 or 19 tooth driven gear depending on what gear I have in the tranny either 7, 8, or 9 tooth. Does anyone know if more teeth on the driven gear means a larger diameter? I would need it to be long the blue one I have or to be a larger diameter.
  12. Try spraying some carb/choke cleaner on the vacuum lines and around the base of the carb. RPM will climb if you have a leak somewhere.
  13. I was wondering the same thing, then it came to me. Go to Walmart and for $2.97 you can get a 18qt black (or other color) plastic bin. I think a rectangular plastic trash can would work better and as soon as I find one I will be redoing mine. Take the glove box out and the door off. Cut enough of the height off to slide into the opening. Trace the dash and cut to length. Pull the trim piece off your old cardboard one (staples) and put it back on to finish the outside edge and screw it back in. I cut mine a bit too short and may be redoing it. It is very apparent in the photo but not at all visible from either seat (unless you know you cut it too short and stare at it every time you open the glove box) A relief cut to the bin was needed in the corners to get the trim piece back in but it is below the trim piece and can not be seen.
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