Qcode351mach

Are you still looking for a valance ? I have a N.O.S ford rear valance, If so PM me Someone along the line put some spray bomb primer on it but you can see where I took it off factory EDP under it

Working on building some of these(H.O. scale) ,Not my mustang but still cars. :D free photo uploading sites where can i upload pictures to share for free where can i upload pictures to share for free

Looks pretty darn Nice Kevin considering the amount of time, Gonna start sending work your way :) Did u seal skim coat the seams/ panel joints on the both qtr panel sections with fiberall or some sort of glass fiber product prior to the filler work ?

I used the 67-68 top section if I remember or could have been 69-70 would have to look at my receipts file to confirm. anyway it was the top patch section that's available

My approach would be a little different concerning the bubbles or blisters. I would literately drill out the blisters all the way through then fill plug with fiberall. It's apparent there's a issue with the fiberglass in that area and gouging sanding etc isn't working. It needs to be removed. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/u-pol-fibral-sandable-glass-fiber-paste-p-15131.aspx?gclid=CKyV1KWXmNECFYZMDQodEtUH7A

Awsome job Kurt ! :goodpost: Really enjoyed that :thankyouyellow:

I did a write up how to about 4 years ago on keeping debris out of the cowl Here it is again http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-to-keep-your-cowl-debris-free

Scott Where did you get that really long drill bit? Is it a drill bit on some kind of extension? https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-BL2731-16-Inch-Black-12-Inch/dp/B003NFJZ46/ref=lp_256270011_1_10?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1481246305&sr=1-10 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-BL2735-8-Inch-Black-12-Inch/dp/B001AHSVGM/ref=lp_256270011_1_15?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1481246305&sr=1-15

Thats a pretty good base line to give you a idea of what it takes. Your material budget should be ok and I think after all the metal work and mud work your border line on whats going to be left for paint. SO a production type job is what you need to do. No stripping down to bare metal. Heres what I would do: BEFORE ANY WORK BEGINS !! A complete wash down with dawn dish washing soap-- if possible also power wash entire car Complete wash down after that with spi water borne wax and grease remover. Metal work Filler work sand entire car scuff old paint with 220-320 on D.A. prime

I think the real answer would depend on budget and what your being paid for the job. That will dictate which process to use. As a example if your being paid lets say 5k for the entire job including materials there's no way you would want to strip the car to bare metal unless of course you want to work for free and donate your own money on top of it. So in order to answer the question we need to know what the materials allowance is and what the labor allowance is. Once those numbers are in place you can then figure out, tailor the best method that's fair to you and the owner.

Looks Fantastic Jim ! If you need help with the shift points setting up the controller give me a ring.

It comes with 4ft so you should only need 4ft. I'll let Scott comment. I will be doing my new glass next week. Ok. Thanks for the reply. This will be on my list for things to do soon also. Ryan lollerz Ryan 1 kit is more than enough

No adhesive required yes it will stay in place

If you look in my thread here http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-glass-install Scroll down a bit there's a picture. I used self stick felt I wanna say around 1/16" -1/8" Thick ,don't remember where I got it but I've done quite a few cars over the years with it no issues. You can get different sizes thickness here https://www.grainger.com/category/felt-sheets-and-strips/felt/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c14

I was thinking the same thing. Weld the seam solid, then fabricate a piece to fill the gap and weld it into place. Then skim light coat of mud over it. You could do that it's just a lot of extra work. No a roof to quarter panel joint isn't designed to flex