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Qcode351mach

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Everything posted by Qcode351mach

  1. Just went through the whole thread Awesome work with excellent attention to the panel lines and gaps-Nothing like a really nice clean baking booth to spray in ! Paint work looks FANTASTIC !! Congrats !!
  2. So I forgot to mention I took a look at my motor today since its probably time to start thinking about getting it ready decide what I'm going to do as far as a power plant-Although it doesn't look it this is the original numbers matching motor I had rebuilt around 1985 ish I think, I only had about 4000 miles on it before I took the car off the road-even has the original 4300D carb ! It's been sitting in that spot in my basement with the toploader still attached all these years. Of course if I use it I'll tear it down all new gaskets detail it etc. On the other hand I'm really considering building a new 408 Stroker -I guess I'll decide shortly, on a side note the original rebuilt motor did run FANTASTIC !
  3. Got the right side all in 2K primer today !! Taking a little break for a day or two regrouping-Than I'm thinking on to seam sealing the entire car inside-outside- bottom-I'll Probably be using Raptor liner as the final finish on the bottom after that painting the engine bay (flat black) I gotta say I'm LOVING how crisp and defined all the body style lines are came out! AMAZING how far ahead of its time the styling & design of this car is !
  4. LOL E, Yep back at it and finishing it this time for SURE !! Yes the Raam Mat is great stuff I've used it in all my builds !
  5. Thanks D ! I need to give you a call for some parts -will ring you up in the next few days
  6. Filler work on the vents is finished !!! and the hood is in 2k blocking primer-I sanded the epoxy primer on the passenger door yesterday and will have the fender done in a few hours-Will have those 2 panels in 2k Blocking primer by the end of the day- Next up the underside of the car and seam sealing the ENTIRE car from front to back-I think for that I'm going to do a video
  7. Mission accomplished-I got the vents bonded in to the hood-Quite a little project here-I used S.E.M. multi-panel adhesive, great stuff ! I'll be using their epoxy based 2 component seam sealer for doing all the seam sealing-So after I bonded the vents in I had to actually weld fill a few of the holes left from the screws I used to hold the vents in place- beauty of this panel adhesive is you can actually weld with out worrying about ruining the adhesive bond of course it was only a few tacks and I made sure to keep the area cool after each tack using my air blower. If I had just filled the holes with filler no doubt over time they will telegraph or show through the paint job. Next step is doing the tedious job of filler work around the perimeter of the vent to hood joint. Man cant wait to finish this panel ! I also fitted the front hood naca vents a little tweak here & there & they are fitting really nice ! After the hood is finished I'll get the drivers side of the car in 2k blocking primer and the car will all be in 1 color !
  8. Thanks Guys ! Yes been a long time ! I'll do what I can with pics & videos, My work area is really small so a lot of stuff needs to be done outside & I'm at the mercy of the weather, I've got a bunch of parts that have been stripped & prepped ready to epoxy prime but waiting on some good weather to do that- All my dash brackets -4 speed under dash stuff -motor mounts-etc. All the little bits & pieces to reassemble the dash-My plan is to finish the body work (just the hood left) -Than get the car driveable again- Originally I was going to wait till it was painted to do that, Will just be a lot easier being able to have it running-A few months ago I was seriously considering selling it but just couldn't do it, I'm to deep into it & the sentimental value is priceless !
  9. Ok here we go ! So the last post we had did the rustbullet on the interior of the roof that's finished I also did the install of the Raam mat sound deadner & installed the custom roof braces. To bring you up to speed I was working on doing the body work on the roof & passenger side of the car, All the body work was finished on the drivers side & put in epoxy just needs to have the 1st round of blocking 2k primer applied-So I finished the roof it has its first coat of 2k applied and I also finished the passenger side quarter panel-So all I had really left was the passenger door.fender & the hood, This past month I finished the door, last week the fender, & friday I started the hood, I think somewhere on the site there's a bunch of pics of the hood work since it's a custom hood I'm making with 68 shelby vents & I also filled all the underside holes (with metal welded in) smoothed the panel edges- I'm getting ready to bond the vents in & hope to do that tomorrow. Pics to follow on that.
  10. Well Guess what guys? I'm back It's been 5 years since I last posted on the site (man time flies) In that time I've finished a few other projects (including my other 1972 Mustang) & unfortunately this car got put to the back burner. I also had to give up the shop I had it in. But that's another story for another day the main thing is that I'm on a major mission to finally FINISH this car. I'll try & post up on here & also try to get more videos done, I've revamped my you tube channel & have posted a few new videos. I've also posted up on the site face book page, For the new members here who have no Idea who I am or anything about this car you can check out all the videos I did on you tube to get caught up on the work I've done to this car plus lots of tips & stuff that will help anyone working & restoring one of our cars. For the new members here a quick history, I have over 30 years in the Auto Body Biz doing high end restorations & high end collision work (retired from that biz now) I've owned this particular car since 1979 & was the first car I ever owned, it was my daily driver for about 9 years in 1988 I took it off the road for a full down to the shell restoration, I have the complete numbers matching drive train and all bolt on numbers matching parts that were taken off when I disassembled the car. I had also had the motor rebuilt about 4000 miles prior to taking it off the road. So fast forward to NOW I'm going to pick up where I left off on my last post in 2016 here's the link to my you tube channel for those that want to start at the beginning and get caught up to now. (there's also other videos of my other 72 the green one) https://www.youtube.com/user/fuzzenut/videos
  11. Are you still looking for a valance ? I have a N.O.S ford rear valance, If so PM me Someone along the line put some spray bomb primer on it but you can see where I took it off factory EDP under it
  12. Working on building some of these(H.O. scale) ,Not my mustang but still cars. :D free photo uploading sites where can i upload pictures to share for free where can i upload pictures to share for free
  13. Looks pretty darn Nice Kevin considering the amount of time, Gonna start sending work your way :) Did u seal skim coat the seams/ panel joints on the both qtr panel sections with fiberall or some sort of glass fiber product prior to the filler work ?
  14. I used the 67-68 top section if I remember or could have been 69-70 would have to look at my receipts file to confirm. anyway it was the top patch section that's available
  15. My approach would be a little different concerning the bubbles or blisters. I would literately drill out the blisters all the way through then fill plug with fiberall. It's apparent there's a issue with the fiberglass in that area and gouging sanding etc isn't working. It needs to be removed. http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/u-pol-fibral-sandable-glass-fiber-paste-p-15131.aspx?gclid=CKyV1KWXmNECFYZMDQodEtUH7A
  16. Awsome job Kurt ! :goodpost: Really enjoyed that :thankyouyellow:
  17. I did a write up how to about 4 years ago on keeping debris out of the cowl Here it is again http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-to-keep-your-cowl-debris-free
  18. Scott Where did you get that really long drill bit? Is it a drill bit on some kind of extension? https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-BL2731-16-Inch-Black-12-Inch/dp/B003NFJZ46/ref=lp_256270011_1_10?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1481246305&sr=1-10 https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-BL2735-8-Inch-Black-12-Inch/dp/B001AHSVGM/ref=lp_256270011_1_15?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1481246305&sr=1-15
  19. Thats a pretty good base line to give you a idea of what it takes. Your material budget should be ok and I think after all the metal work and mud work your border line on whats going to be left for paint. SO a production type job is what you need to do. No stripping down to bare metal. Heres what I would do: BEFORE ANY WORK BEGINS !! A complete wash down with dawn dish washing soap-- if possible also power wash entire car Complete wash down after that with spi water borne wax and grease remover. Metal work Filler work sand entire car scuff old paint with 220-320 on D.A. prime entire car with high build 2k primer let sit for 2 weeks guide coat block sand with 220 to start just for initial cut finish with 400 wet. Though cleaning and de-grease You can use spi epoxy as a sealer (follow directions to do so ) or what ever paint system your using should have a sealer. Seal than paint.
  20. I think the real answer would depend on budget and what your being paid for the job. That will dictate which process to use. As a example if your being paid lets say 5k for the entire job including materials there's no way you would want to strip the car to bare metal unless of course you want to work for free and donate your own money on top of it. So in order to answer the question we need to know what the materials allowance is and what the labor allowance is. Once those numbers are in place you can then figure out, tailor the best method that's fair to you and the owner.
  21. Looks Fantastic Jim ! If you need help with the shift points setting up the controller give me a ring.
  22. It comes with 4ft so you should only need 4ft. I'll let Scott comment. I will be doing my new glass next week. Ok. Thanks for the reply. This will be on my list for things to do soon also. Ryan lollerz Ryan 1 kit is more than enough
  23. If you look in my thread here http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-glass-install Scroll down a bit there's a picture. I used self stick felt I wanna say around 1/16" -1/8" Thick ,don't remember where I got it but I've done quite a few cars over the years with it no issues. You can get different sizes thickness here https://www.grainger.com/category/felt-sheets-and-strips/felt/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c14
  24. I was thinking the same thing. Weld the seam solid, then fabricate a piece to fill the gap and weld it into place. Then skim light coat of mud over it. You could do that it's just a lot of extra work. No a roof to quarter panel joint isn't designed to flex
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