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Posts posted by Qcode351mach

  1. So I forgot to mention I took a look at my motor today since its probably time to start thinking about getting it ready decide what I'm going to do as far as a power plant-Although it doesn't look it this is the original numbers matching motor I had rebuilt around 1985 ish I think, I only had about 4000 miles on it before I took the car off the road-even has the original 4300D carb ! It's been sitting in that spot in my basement with the toploader still attached all these years. Of course if I use it I'll tear it down all new gaskets detail it etc. On the other hand I'm really considering building a new 408 Stroker -I guess I'll decide shortly, on a side note the original rebuilt motor did run FANTASTIC !



  2. Got the right side all in 2K primer today !! :biggrin: Taking a little break for a day or two regrouping-Than I'm thinking on to seam sealing the entire car inside-outside- bottom-I'll Probably be using Raptor liner as the final finish on the bottom after that painting the engine bay (flat black) I gotta say I'm LOVING how crisp and defined all the body style lines are came out!  AMAZING how far ahead of its time the styling & design of this car is !




    • Like 1
  3. 8 hours ago, Mister 4x4 said:

    SO glad to see you back at this, Scott!  Hey, if you need any advice on how to put it all back together, hit me up - I learned from the best! :rofl:

    I love the Raam Mat - it's amazing how much of a difference it makes.  I know when you tap on the roof of mine, it sounds like a freaken tank!

    LOL E, Yep back at it and finishing it this time for SURE !! Yes the Raam Mat is great stuff I've used it in all my builds !

  4. Filler work on the vents is finished !!! and the hood is in 2k blocking primer-I sanded the epoxy primer on the passenger door yesterday and will have the fender done in a few hours-Will have those 2 panels in 2k Blocking primer by the end of the day- Next up the underside of the car and seam sealing the ENTIRE car from front to back-I think for that I'm going to do a video




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  5. Mission accomplished-I got the vents bonded in to the hood-Quite a little project here-I used S.E.M. multi-panel adhesive, great stuff ! I'll be using their epoxy based 2 component seam sealer for doing all the seam sealing-So after I bonded the vents in I had to actually weld fill a few of the holes left from the screws I used to hold the vents in place- beauty of this panel adhesive is you can actually weld with out worrying about ruining the adhesive bond of course it was only a few tacks and I made sure to keep the area cool after each tack using my air blower. If I had just filled the holes with filler no doubt over time they will telegraph or show through the paint job. Next step is doing the tedious job of filler work around the perimeter of the vent to hood joint. Man cant wait to finish this panel ! I also fitted the front hood naca vents a little tweak here & there & they are fitting really nice ! After the hood is finished I'll get the drivers side of the car in 2k blocking primer and the car will all be in 1 color !






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  6. Thanks Guys ! Yes been a long time ! I'll do what I can with pics & videos, My work area is really small so a lot of stuff needs to be done outside & I'm at the mercy of the weather, I've got a bunch of parts that have been stripped & prepped ready to epoxy prime but waiting on some good weather to do that- All my dash brackets -4 speed under dash stuff -motor mounts-etc. All the little bits & pieces to reassemble the dash-My plan is to finish the body work (just the hood left) -Than get the car driveable again- Originally I was going to wait till it was painted to do that, Will just be a lot easier being able to have it running-A few months ago I was seriously considering selling it but just couldn't do it, I'm to deep into it & the sentimental value is priceless !

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  7. Ok here we go ! So the last post we had did the rustbullet on the interior of the roof that's finished I also did the install of the Raam mat sound deadner & installed the custom roof braces. To bring you up to speed I was working on doing the body work on the roof & passenger side of the car, All the body work was finished on the drivers side & put in epoxy just needs to have the 1st round of blocking 2k primer applied-So I finished the roof it has its first coat of 2k applied and I also finished the passenger side quarter panel-So all I had really left was the passenger door.fender & the hood, This past month I finished the door, last week the fender, & friday I started the hood, I think somewhere on the site there's a bunch of pics of the hood work since it's a custom hood I'm making with 68 shelby vents & I also filled all the underside holes (with metal welded in) smoothed the panel edges- I'm getting ready to bond the vents in & hope to do that tomorrow. Pics to follow on that. 






    • Like 2
  8. Hi Q,


    I am doing floor pan in my Mach 1 as well. I need to replace the driver's side rear torque box cover. Did you make your patch or start with a 69-70 patch?

    I used the 67-68 top section if I remember or could have been 69-70 would have to look at my receipts file to confirm. anyway it was the top patch section that's available

  9. My approach would be a little different concerning the bubbles or blisters. I would literately drill out the blisters all the way through then fill plug with fiberall. It's apparent there's a issue with the fiberglass in that area and gouging sanding etc isn't working. It needs to be removed.


  10. A few shots of the lower supplemental felt installed and the drill bit you need.

    Also how I installed new felt on the inner blocks




    Where did you get that really long drill bit? Is it a drill bit on some kind of extension?





  11. Hey Kevin, My paint job was 4k in materials and rite at 350 hrs. That's not counting the metal work. Just mud,blocking,painting,color sanding clearing twice,then polishing.


    My brother and my buddy both have been working in production shops for 40 years and agreed that my original paint was fine to paint over. I think the over all statement was " Don't over think this body work crap" and ' It will be fine with quality product"


    The original paint was sanded with 320 after the body work was done.

    Thats a pretty good base line to give you a idea of what it takes. Your material budget should be ok and I think after all the metal work and mud work your border line on whats going to be left for paint. SO a production type job is what you need to do. No stripping down to bare metal.

    Heres what I would do:

    BEFORE ANY WORK BEGINS !! A complete wash down with dawn dish washing soap-- if possible also power wash entire car

    Complete wash down after that with spi water borne wax and grease remover.

    Metal work

    Filler work

    sand entire car scuff old paint with 220-320 on D.A.

    prime entire car with high build 2k primer let sit for 2 weeks

    guide coat block sand with 220 to start just for initial cut finish with 400 wet.

    Though cleaning and de-grease

    You can use spi epoxy as a sealer (follow directions to do so ) or what ever paint system your using should have a sealer.

    Seal than paint.

  12. I think the real answer would depend on budget and what your being paid for the job. That will dictate which process to use. As a example if your being paid lets say 5k for the entire job including materials there's no way you would want to strip the car to bare metal unless of course you want to work for free and donate your own money on top of it. So in order to answer the question we need to know what the materials allowance is and what the labor allowance is. Once those numbers are in place you can then figure out, tailor the best method that's fair to you and the owner.

  13. If you look in my thread here http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-glass-install Scroll down a bit there's a picture.

    I used self stick felt I wanna say around 1/16" -1/8" Thick ,don't remember where I got it but I've done quite a few cars over the years with it no issues.

    You can get different sizes thickness here https://www.grainger.com/category/felt-sheets-and-strips/felt/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c14

  14. What about the idea of fabricating a piece of steel to fill the gap and entirely welding it in?

    Was it originally designed to be a flexible point?


    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


    I was thinking the same thing. Weld the seam solid, then fabricate a piece to fill the gap and weld it into place. Then skim light coat of mud over it.

    You could do that it's just a lot of extra work. No a roof to quarter panel joint isn't designed to flex

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