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Everything posted by Qcode351mach

  1. :goodpost::coolphotos:::thumb::::thumb::::thumb::
  2. ::thumb::::thumb::::thumb::::thumb::::thumb::
  3. Don't soda blast the car not a recommended procedure for epoxy..Call the company I put the link up to and ask them for a guy in your area who does the dustless blasting has their equipment . I would do all your metal work first then epoxy prime then filler work on top the procedure is outlined here http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/#!perfect-paint-job/c1go8 Also read the tech sheet on the epoxy here http://media.wix.com/ugd/8ced3e_aa7a0c28253d491895be7e6b57691ec6.pdf BIG BOLD LETTERS NEVER SPRAY EPOXY ON A SODA BLASTED CAR !!!
  4. Look good, Just curious if your planing on having the car media blasted ? I would defiantly have it done. I really like the new dustless blasting http://www.dustlessblasting.com/automotive.html If you have someone in your area with this setup its the way to go, they come right to your location.
  5. You were lucky to get someone at the phone,I called about 4 times on different days and hours and left 4 voice messages to return my call and nobody bothered to call. Not a good business practice. Interesting just for the heck of it I took a look at the web site and fb page, I have no Idea how the hell in the world they can work so cheap (price page) The get 295.00 labor to do a shock tower with aprons thats 4.5 hours at 65.00 per hour, Book time from the Mitchell collision estimating guide is 7.5 AFTER all the items required for removal are taken off. Theres No way your walking out of there paying $295.00 in labor for a shock tower and aprons replacement heres why, (cut and paste from their price page below) "The following prices are based on reductions for certain panel overlaps and are subject to change based on services performed. Some operations can not be performed independently and may require additional charges" Having been in the collision restoration biz for over 30 years I know this game well. Once the car is in and apart you get the phone call...Mr so & so we found more damage or we need to do xxx and x since now thats it open we can really see. What are you going to do pull the car ? Those prices are artificially low (lower than book time) and theres a good chance that your walking out the door with a much higher bill. I lost lots of work to shops over the years because I refused to play that game. Was up front about what it really cost to do the repair. Using the book time at the bare minimum $295.00 divided by 7.5 =$39.00 per hour. a decent I-car certified collision tech makes at least $25.00 or more a hour that leaves 14.00 dollars a hour left to cover your overhead and expenses and profit. The numbers just don't work at least here in the northeast New England states. I guess the cost of everything down there must be really really cheap although consumables (mig wire gas grinding wheels primers etc) are the same price through out the U.S. I'm not putting them down I'm just trying to figure out how they can do a quality job at such low prices. A member here bkdunha had his car done there and I remember him posting I think that there were problems with the work they did / work that had to be redone when it went to Mustang Central And heres my take on having a social media page presence saying you only check it once a week, It's a poor excuse for not calling back or answering emails. If you want to have a face book page or web page then be prepared to be married to it. It requires a commitment of time and energy. It's one of the reasons I don't want a web page nor a face book page for my shop it's a full time job just handling that. It becomes a burden which is why most company's have a full time web person. Theres no half way in, it's your in or your out. As you can see because of not answering the original poster it actually makes the company look worse puts them in a bad light than it does any good. I guess at the labor rates they work at they can't afford a dedicated web person. They should do themselves a favor and take down the fb page they don't even respond to anything on it so why bother
  6. Thanks Q I just might come up to visit you some time in the coming weeks also looked at your photos of the trammel under the car. right now I have the car jacked up and I am using chief frame gauges. I have a body guy in town who has helped me in the past with this car. I was just trying to find out if anyone had an idea concerning those dims on the diagram. Your welcome, The old style hanging gauges ? No Idea what the -10 is on that diagram. I really don't see where it comes into play any way. I don't have it on the chart I have. A much more accurate setup is using pointers set to height from the base line or datum line up like in my pictures.
  7. I AGREE with you 100% .Its very unprofessional... Classics tried to respond to your pm but your pm box is full so it couldn't go through please delete cleanup so I can send my response
  8. Exactly, I just did that same exact thing for a member here can provide that service..Plus I have a 3000sqft restoration /storage/ shop http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-my-73-mach-1-on-the-road-today See post #14 http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-purchase?page=2
  9. What are you looking to have done ? I have a beautiful shop in Danbury Ct and specialize in Mustangs I'm sure you've seen plenty of my videos , posts and cars I have built. PM me for more info
  10. In order to measure the car your going to need to jig the unibody level front to back and side to side at the rear of the rocker pinch weld and at the front of the rocker pinch weld. Once thats done you need to set up a set of bars with pointers set to the correct heights in the spec, locations (from the spec sheet. Take a look at my pics here and you can see how I jigged the car on a dolly then the bars underneath with pointers. Not sure where in CT you are but if close you could always stop by my shop for help. http://s1136.photobucket.com/user/FUZZENUT/slideshow/MUSTANG-%20BACK%20FROM%20THE%20GRAVE
  11. The problem with our windshields is the lower part that gets attached to the cowl and dash. Those tools don't reach..So your left with ether the wire method OR what the glass guy who cut mine out used which was a sawzall with a flat scraper attachment. https://www.gtglass.com/auto-glass-replacement-tools/auto-glass-blades-and-tools/3x14-sheath-auto-glass-blade Works like a dream and a little trick is to have a spray bottle with water, spray the blade before you start cutting and repeat every 12 " or as required the water keeps the glue from sticking to the blade.
  12. Awsome ::thumb:: I fell in love with that car the second I saw it. Good thing you bought it cause if you didn't, it would be sitting in my garage right now. I bet too a good clay bar and polish job would take the finish up a few notches. When you get a chance post up a video of it running would love to hear that motor it's got a ton of top notch parts in the right configuration. The car is really built well not to many out there like it. Again best of luck and have fun !:D
  13. :goodpost: Best advice yet ..I had a 460 in my car with every aluminum piece you could buy..Ditched it for a 351 best move ever :D
  14. Don, Thanks ! Been driving the heck out of it :D When ever your ready wanna stop in just let me know.
  15. Sure did ! I have a separate thread on the glass http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-new-glass-install
  16. Steve your welcome ! Glad I could help you make your dream come true ! sometimes the stars all align properly and things work out the way they do for a reason ! Now post up some pictures of that new car !
  17. Looks great ::thumb:: Don't make the mistake of thinking primer surfacer will fill, it won't, they all shrink a little bit no matter what the can says. Better off to skim coat with polyester putty glaze. Once all your filler work is done and the car is in primer if you don't have access to a baking booth let the car sit for 2 weeks and if possible a few days in the sun before sanding. I like to let my final primer coat sit for a month before sanding. Although you can't get a dolly behind the dent you might be able to slip a flat spoon (like the one in my video) in there OR your can try a piece of flat bar stock sometimes you have to improvise make your own tools.
  18. scam same car if u look close http://hartford.craigslist.org/cto/5621018880.html
  19. John, You work from the area of least damage into the deeper worst damage usually that follows the same way it was mas made created. If the crease is the same depth all the way through then you could do 6 studs at a time BUT if it goes from shallow to deep I would do 1 at a time. If the other door is good just copy the contour /shape with the gauge to get it perfect. I also use a straight edge. The beauty of the shrinking disc is if you over pull not a big deal to shrink it down. Yes leave the door on gives you something to pull on..Once you rough out your pulls you can take off to do the finish work fine tune the metal.
  20. Looks good but your missing one tool that will take your metal work to the next level I have a video on doing a door crease and theres others showing how to use a shrinking disc one the best tools to use have for dent repair metal work in conjunction with a contour gauge
  21. It's not the bearing that's hard to get on but the retaining ring. I've always cut them and the old bearing off if just replacing on a old axle. Install is made much easier by putting the axle in the freezer for 48 hours prior (if you can) The bearing will usually push right on. The retaining ring I heat up in the toaster oven prior -pull the axle out of the freezer the ring out of the oven and no press required.
  22. Very easy to see if it's damaged, Jack the rear up- remove drum- start car put in low and observe the flange, if's its bent you will see it. I've never seen one repaired that runs true plus the cost to attempt can end up costing just as much or more than a new axle. I replaced both on my car you may have a hard time finding a single new one since superior axle went out of biz. Moser makes them but in pairs only https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-a28-71must/overview/year/1972/make/ford/model/mustang And they say estimated delivery 7/19 I wouldn't buy used ether UNLESS you can see it spin verify it's true. Make sure to also verify length and splines
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