Jump to content

Qcode351mach

Tech Advisors
  • Posts

    2,888
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    23

Everything posted by Qcode351mach

  1. So the new owner of the white 72 vert I had and sold for a former member here had me put some new wheels and tires on year one magnum 500's 17x9 rear with nitto 555's 285/40/17 And 17x8 front with 245/45/17's Looks pretty nice, and should handle really nice, next onto lowering the front
  2. The end of the fender does have that bump or is raised..I have 3 cars here right now all with original fenders (no filler) which I checked. That line is a little proud (high) on your fender the line DOES NOT FOLLOW THROUGH TO THE EXTENSION So you have a few options The 1st is to make sure you have the extension all the way over as much as possible to the edge this may require filing open the holes to get it over and up. Then add some filler to the extension to build it out but retaining the same contour. The 2nd would be to heat up the extension with a propane torch and slowly and carefully move the edge out (even though it's cast it can be heated and bent ever so slightly BUT be careful not to apply to much heat as you can melt the metal) The 3rd would be to slice the line right in the middle for about a inch or so from the front towards the back then tap down to the right shape height and weld the slice shut after metal work. Pick your poison
  3. Thanks Qcode. Not the brightest bunny in the bunch am I!! I just took a so called 351C T/stat and dunked it in hot water. The hat does extend downward to reach the 1.02" dimension. However, now it's the diameter of the 'hat' that I am concerned about. The one I have is only .625 Diam. The Stant list the by-pass flange diameter as .66". The hole in the restrictor plate is about .75" as best as I can tell, so still no seal. I will look into your suggestion for the FlowKooler if it's available. I just spent 2 grand on new parts to hopefully fix my engine wows, what's another few bucks to do it right. Thanks again, Geoff Flow kooler /Robert shaw 333-180 This is the correct one, same as I have installed in my car You have to call flow kooler http://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/contact.html they dont show on the site the stamping is ct2101700s0003 I happened to have my car in heavy stop and go traffic this weekend for over 30 minutes, Was the first time I've had the car in traffic like this. locked in at 180 the whole time never budged :wrench: (non stock water temp gauge)
  4. Buy the repop door cups good chance they will fit better match the repop door panels http://www.cjponyparts.com/deluxe-door-handle-trim-cups-1971-1973/p/DPDC5/
  5. You want the flow cooler 0r Robert shaw http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/5650045562/m/3061006836
  6. Theres 2 shims (one each side) that get placed in-between the decklid and the hinge at the bolt hole closest to the rear body panel. Also if a new after market decklid the skin isn't welded to the frame like o.e.m. So it allows the skin to move around. You may have to "tweak or twist to line up then add a few small track welds to hold.
  7. If your looking for exact symmetry it can be done ;) Did some cars come deviate from factory tolerance I'm sure they did, the factory tolerance at that time was + or -3/8". In order to get perfect symmetry you have to start at the chassis (unibody) If your looking to have the sheetmetal line up perfect side to side you need to "tram" the aprons-towers-and radiator support to make sure every thing is equal and square from a center line drawn down the middle and then x measured from known good points for square. Once thats confirmed your on your way ::thumb:: Btw your spec of 3/8" is within factory tolerance
  8. Exactly ! Just because a car sells that doesn't mean the deal went through a very high percentage don't . The worst though is when I go to buy a car or parts I always hear "Oh these are selling for $$$ on ebay". Means nothing when you track the actual amount of deals that go through.
  9. It's all a big money grab..any which way they can. The real issue is that they have no clue how to use the nada GUIDE There are lots of foot notes and guidelines for USING the book right at the front. The way they do it is to assume every car is a 10 and in perfect flawless condition. When I fought the value they put on one my cars at the tax collectors office their answer was we can't inspect every car for value..Luckily I'm a licensed appraiser so I was able to present my license and tell them "I know that's why I already did it for you" So they adjusted to my numbers..Big deal I'm one out of thousands they just make it up 10 times over on the others.
  10. As a tool and die maker I have never heard the term thread chaser. A tap can be several different configurations from plug to bottom but never heard of a thread chaser. Educate me please, pic would be great. Your right::thumb:: I think hes confusing the Term or tool "Thread Chaser " with a specific tool made to "chase threads" Most in the know or trades as you said, equate that term to using a Tap to "Chase the threads" Thread Chaser is slang for a tap or nickname for a tap to most in the automobile trade. NOW of course this applies to internal threads. External threads actually do have a specific tool called a thread chaser but most will opt for a die.
  11. There is no air on either side of the thermostat after you fill the system. The little hole in the thermostat just stops the belching of the system getting the air out. If there is air in the block when you first start the engine and the thermostat is closed as normal it holds air. When you start the engine the first time it has to heat up the thermostat enough to open before the air can get out. Without water being around the thermostat nothing to heat it up but the heat from the block. When it does open if you have the radiator cap off it usually spits out antifreeze everywhere because of the air escaping. The tiny hole eliminates all that. If you are afraid something will happen don't do it. I am certain nothing will happen. Clear. I'm gonna drill a hole then. Thanks for the discussin' folks. The subject has been beaten to death all over the interweb so :whistling: http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3695832-thermostat-drill-a-hole-or-not.html
  12. Amazing how freaking stupid a so called expert in muscle cars can't even know that there is no such thing as a "FRAME OFF" on a unibody that doesn't have a front subframe like a 71 Camaro. Really shows how knowledgeable they are.
  13. Reverse coolant flow/ sucking air into the port when the engine cools off I've never in 30+ plus years of building engines replacing thermostats drilled a hole in a thermostat so there's both sides of the coin Some say ya do, and some say you don't, Imho I guess it's up to the guy replacing the part.
  14. Don't drill a hole in the thermostat. The correct Robert Shaw thermostat doesn't have one and nether did the thermostat installed from the factory. The Cleveland has a unique cooling flow and drilling the hole can actually cause more problems than it solves.
  15. found this surfing around today https://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/5572916723.html
  16. Don, i know it's a friend but for that kind of money at least tell him to change the quarter window seals, Quarter trim windlace and line up the hood a lot better. Way over priced..Thats boss351 money in the current market, Need to sit him down and have a talk although he's not going to like what he hears.
  17. Set of 4 16x8 Shelby 10 spokes with Michelin Pilot 225/55/16 No curb rash tons of tread left Slight oxidation just needs a good polish looking for 600.00 OR BEST OFFER plus shipping Might consider trades of cash plus parts (looking for a set of rear window louvers)
  18. Sem structural adhesive or seam sealer dual mix https://www.semproducts.com/brand/13-dual-mixtm ..I would call tech and ask for their recommendation for that application .You could also weld the seam then file cut a line.
  19. Since the global west upper arms you have dont allow any adjustment like the Street or track setup then the issue more than likely could be shock tower related or lower crossmember. Imho I disagree with your mechanic. In my 30 plus years of building repairing cars I've seen quite a few mustangs lose alignment from the lower eccentrics slipping. It's more common than you think especially with upgraded tires, suspension and drive train. What really should be done is a measurement check of the front unibody, towers and crossmember to insure they are in spec. If he can't get the alignment as per globals specs than I'd start looking in the structure.
  20. Good Deal ::thumb:: Looking forward to the rest of the high level restoration of this car
  21. And what do you have for for upper arms ? I don't understand ether why he can't install them. If they are the same as the street or track (square blocks that fit in between the 2 tabs) It's a no brainer. Is the issue he can't get the specs with the plates/blocks installed ? or he just doesn't know how they go ? I would think you have the tubular upper arms also ? Need more info to see whats going on. Using stock upper arms and tubular lower arms could cause a issue with not being able to get into spec- but you'd still be able to install them per say.
×
×
  • Create New...