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Everything posted by Qcode351mach

  1. You mean the camber kit ? They can be installed 2 ways in other words with the number facing in or the number facing out maybe he has them reversed what control arms are you using ? Do they have adjustments like the street or track does with lock nuts ?
  2. Don't use por 15--Prep is critical and meant for inner areas not exterior sheetmetal that's going to receive the actual topcoats exterior finishes. There are better easier to use products out there. If your looking to do the exterior sheetmetal epoxy primer is the way to go if the car is going to sit for a long time before actual paint. Simple process sand with 80 grit to bare metal with a oscillating sander-wipe with waterborne wax and grease remover-let sit 1 hour--apply epoxy as per instructions heres my vid on the epoxy primer
  3. No brainer if your staying auto 4r70w (4spd with overdrive) (you can source from a 1999-2001 Mustang 6 cyl or 8 cyl almost a direct bolt in and not much more $$$. You'd be crazy to spend money on the fmx UNLESS your doing a factory correct restoration.
  4. I have to thank you again for the steer (no pun intended) and the significant savings. Initially I was leaning to a full roller/stiffened system from another well thought of supplier. Your pricing made the SOT package the logical answer. I am really looking forward to the transformation of my car when all of the "kit" is installed. My Pleasure Ed, Just one of the benefits of being a member here...:D I can only offer a discount on Street or Track stuff (Has to be made by them their product) to members here, how long I can do that for, time will tell. Glad you took advantage.
  5. looking good :coolphotos: Somebody's gonna have 1 super handling Mustang ::thumb::
  6. What are the pros/cons of different shackle lengths? In relation to stock length, there are a bunch of things affected when you change shackle lengths. A longer shackle will move one end of the leaf spring further away from the frame, doing several things. It rotates the axle down at the shackle side of the spring. It decreases castor angle of the front axle affecting the steerings stability at high speed, and reduces the steering ability to return to center after a turn. It increases pinion angle It increases leverage on the shackle mount It increases droop (down) travel It decreases approach/departure angle It adds lift to the suspension in the amount of half the difference between the new shackle and the original shackle. Example: shackle is 4” from bolt to bolt; replacing it with a shackle 6” from bolt to bolt will provide 1” of lift) Heres a few reasons you really shouldn't run extended shackles from a handling driveabillity point of view. In other words dont over do it.
  7. Heres my take after being in the a/b biz repairing unibodys for over 25 years. The aftermarket parts used to suck back in the 80's-early 90's as of today they are pretty darn good. The Issue I've seen time and time again is poor installation of structural parts and not checking to insure the unibody is in spec PRIOR to replacement of those parts. Also diyers and some so called pro's too thinking all it takes to install a rad support or inner structure piece is just cut it out pop the new one in WRONG. Theres a good chance your rad support is not installed properly out of square, maybe too low too high which then translates back to the inner aprons which of course the fenders sit on. measure for square and height would be a good start and tell you alot.
  8. Did you replace or repair any of the inner structure (rad support -aprons front or rear)
  9. Not my cars one with a aftermarket hood and one with a oem hood. You need to start with adding the fender shims as per the factory. 2nd You need to insure the hinges have no play are in excellent condition. I couldn't get my hood aligned using new aftermarket hinges or my sloppy originals so I sent my originals out to be rebuilt. Solved that problem. 3rd if you replaced the rear fender aprons you need to measure the old hinge mounting spots BEFORE removal..and Insure the new ones line up are in the same location before welding in the new aprons. Same for the front aprons any difference in height or location from the old will give you problems. That in it self is a major source of alignment issues. 4th the aftermarket hoods don't have the skin welded to the frame which actually is a blessing allows you to move the skin around tweak it some. Start with the above and see what you get let us know.
  10. You know can make traces out of the silver foil aluminum tape or copper tape http://www.amazon.com/Copper-Conductive-Adhesive-Width-Length/dp/B009KB86BU/ref=sr_1_3/190-4965896-9992150?ie=UTF8&qid=1460585124&sr=8-3&keywords=conductive+tape+copper
  11. Wow. Nice work David. Looks good. What is the part number on the black SEM you used? I want to make sure I get the right one. The number on the can is VP-946 and below that 946 SEM, Interior Paint Spray 65-73 Mustang. I got from National Parts Depot they are just 100 miles from me. I ordered two cans but did not use but one. You want to put as little as possible so you don't fill in the texture. I have four more to do in black and a couple in ginger. Don't even try to refinish the glove box cover just order a new one. He was going to take care of adding the new one to this console. Heating the console up and getting the base back straight is critical for it to fit proper. Also reinforcing the mounting holes is a must. These things are getting old and brittle. Scuff the inside with some coarse paper so the epoxy and fiberglass have something to stick to. You can fill in gaps with it also. I glue any splits with ABS pipe glue from the hardware. Glue you use on the black pipe. Don't get it on the grain it does melt the plastic. Do Not try to wash the console with lacquer thinner it also melts it. Getting a fresh finish on the console makes a big difference for sure. David A few things to add when doing interior repair--As said dawn is the first step--then wash with comet and soft scrub sponge--then denatured alcohol--then spi waterborne wax and grease remover--dawn again--then S.E.M. soap with a grey scuff pad then wax and grease before final finishing the above process will clean remove prep any type of interior dressing. I don't use epoxy any more for making repairs (I've tried plenty of different epoxy's) over time the repair will lift..A better quality repair is what I detail in my video. I feel a better match to the oem black is the SEM tuxedo black I just did the entire interior of my green 72 went from puke green to black came out flawless I also use the sem xxx adhesion promoter. A few pictures of the finished parts installed in the car
  12. U-Pol Makes good stuff been using their products for quite some time, good value for the money !
  13. Your not going to get full vacuum on a new motor that hasn't broken in seated the rings-Check back after you put a few thousand miles on it
  14. For someone like your self with no welding experience the new panel structural adhesives are a great option for doing some small patch work as a matter of fact even as a pro I sometimes utilize this method sometimes you can't justify welding in a patch and the associated work required to do it properly. I like and use S.E.M. products
  15. Not sure about the other trannys but the 4r70w I did in conjunction with the baumann controller gives you a lot more than a 4th gear too..multiple modes with the flip of a switch- paddle shifter ready and a lot more. basically your in the same price range as the GV unit maybe a touch more or less depending on how much you source a 4r70w for and how much you spend on the rebuild. http://www.usshift.com/usq4.shtml I've been super pleased with my conversion one of the best upgrades I've doon
  16. Easy out is as pointed out ..I would use a propane torch on low to heat the area before you attempt removal -You could weld a nut on or a bolt on whats left get on it right after welding as the heat will make it easier to remove. personally I would attempt welding a nut on since it looks like you have enough "meat" protruding from the block--you lay the nut on top then weld in the center of the nut to the broken piece immediately try to remove while still hot. Then there's this tool also
  17. Fresh warm air from the top and exhaust is actually out the plenum silver box (built from 1x2 frame and covered with foam sheathing panels hot glued to the frame) then 24" black tube hooked up to a panel that screws onto my entry exterior door inside door frame. The fans were used commercial grade window fans I found at a yard sale. I don't know the cfms but the beauty of it is I made it totally modular 6- 2x4 panels that screw together--the plenum is on wheels with the fans- exhaust tube and door panel(also sheathing with a 24" hole for the tube)
  18. Looks good ::thumb:: Noticed your fan setup did you see pictures of the booth I made ? Works amazing almost boarder line you don't a mask thats how well it extracts.
  19. The best way to wash these cars or any cars for that matter is to do your normal wash routine and heres the key DRY WITH A LEAF BLOWER gets all the water out of the nooks and crannys behind the moldings etc. I've been doing it for years plus if you perfect the finish (polished waxed ) you don't even need soap a quick blast with the hose--leaf blower--detail spray and done.
  20. Heres how I addressed this issue obviously applies to a car your going to paint. They all came this way from the factory.
  21. They have a manufacture date of Aug 2014 on the package. I received them around Dec 2014, just now took them out of the package. Did you end up cutting them like others are saying or did it work out when you started from the ends and worked your way to the middle without cutting? I didn't cut them worked out starting from ends towards the middle.
  22. How old are they ? I had the same Issue with a set I purchased about 4 years ago. I recently purchased a set for the green 72 they fit perfect --What you have to do is screw in both sides and work a little at a time side to side working your way to the middle of the door.
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