trillizo_y_uno

Looking good!

Actually I am using them with a set of Boss 351 valve covers. No idea if there would be any issues with the stock 351C valve covers.

The Mach 1 name itself just carries a certain "baddassery" to it. Sure, it literally had nothing to do with making the car go faster. But cooler? Undoubtedly. Can't fault Ford for creating an iconic brand and making a few bucks off of it. There is a reason people restore these cars and slap Mach 1 badging on converts, sportsroofs, and otherwise. The brand matters.

Get a set of FelPro 1682 silicon valve cover gaskets. You can remove and replace your valve covers at will and those gaskets just keep on trucking. They are also very forgiving if your mating surfaces aren't true. The only downside is the price. I think a set will run you around $70.

Seriously, it's great your wife is along for the ride. Literally. My wife will "allow" me to cart her around for a drive once in awhile...

By chance did you spread a dab of RTV around the mating surface of the tailshaft and output shaft seal when you banged in it? I replaced my seal twice and the gear oil found a way to seep out between the two surfaces. Third time was a charm with a dab of RTV.

Worth noting, the heater control valves often corrode on the inside allowing coolant to flow through constantly. It might be worth inspecting, especially if you have an original one.

The first picture is the heater control valve. It's vacuum operated and connected to the heater control. Basically, when you move the slider to heat, the valve opens to allow coolant flow to the heater core. The second picture is the heater stove for a carb choke.

Speaking of Richard Holdener, he recently showed a factory 351C M code pulling 450HP with a simple cam and intake swap

It's kind of funny, but in reality the 71-73 Mustang is actually a pretty small car comparatively. I think the long hood just makes it look much bigger than it actually is. I'm always amazed at how much room I have around the car when I have it the garage.

You probably know this, but make sure you slide in the new trunk pan before installing the new tail panel.

Looks like a 73 to me with the non-blackout taillights and the 73 stripes. Can't tell much else from the pictures.

Nobody is going to accuse Project Farm of following scientific method. But he has a loyal following and I believe his experiments have merit regardless. I do agree with Stanglover, it would be best to avoid ethanol all together. Also, I believe the reason ethanol became en vogue was partly to offset rising oil costs, but mostly as a way to provide a government subsidy to corn farmers. It would be hard to take that subsidy away at this point. We certainly pump more than enough oil domestically with the rise of fracking to dump ethanol entirely.

Project Farm on YouTube did a test on various fuel stabilizers and ethanol several months back. You can watch it here: The short version is, while stabilizers may extend the shelf life of fuel with ethanol, there is no product that can neutralize ethanol and it's damaging effects.

Stanglover posted a picture of a Boss piston earlier in this thread. See if your pistons look like that. You might also be able to use the snake camera to look for the screw in studs if you don't want to pull off a valve cover.