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trillizo_y_uno

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Everything posted by trillizo_y_uno

  1. Get a set of FelPro 1682 silicon valve cover gaskets. You can remove and replace your valve covers at will and those gaskets just keep on trucking. They are also very forgiving if your mating surfaces aren't true. The only downside is the price. I think a set will run you around $70.
  2. Seriously, it's great your wife is along for the ride. Literally. My wife will "allow" me to cart her around for a drive once in awhile...
  3. By chance did you spread a dab of RTV around the mating surface of the tailshaft and output shaft seal when you banged in it? I replaced my seal twice and the gear oil found a way to seep out between the two surfaces. Third time was a charm with a dab of RTV.
  4. Worth noting, the heater control valves often corrode on the inside allowing coolant to flow through constantly. It might be worth inspecting, especially if you have an original one.
  5. The first picture is the heater control valve. It's vacuum operated and connected to the heater control. Basically, when you move the slider to heat, the valve opens to allow coolant flow to the heater core. The second picture is the heater stove for a carb choke.
  6. Speaking of Richard Holdener, he recently showed a factory 351C M code pulling 450HP with a simple cam and intake swap
  7. It's kind of funny, but in reality the 71-73 Mustang is actually a pretty small car comparatively. I think the long hood just makes it look much bigger than it actually is. I'm always amazed at how much room I have around the car when I have it the garage.
  8. You probably know this, but make sure you slide in the new trunk pan before installing the new tail panel.
  9. Looks like a 73 to me with the non-blackout taillights and the 73 stripes. Can't tell much else from the pictures.
  10. Nobody is going to accuse Project Farm of following scientific method. But he has a loyal following and I believe his experiments have merit regardless. I do agree with Stanglover, it would be best to avoid ethanol all together. Also, I believe the reason ethanol became en vogue was partly to offset rising oil costs, but mostly as a way to provide a government subsidy to corn farmers. It would be hard to take that subsidy away at this point. We certainly pump more than enough oil domestically with the rise of fracking to dump ethanol entirely.
  11. Project Farm on YouTube did a test on various fuel stabilizers and ethanol several months back. You can watch it here: The short version is, while stabilizers may extend the shelf life of fuel with ethanol, there is no product that can neutralize ethanol and it's damaging effects.
  12. Stanglover posted a picture of a Boss piston earlier in this thread. See if your pistons look like that. You might also be able to use the snake camera to look for the screw in studs if you don't want to pull off a valve cover.
  13. Actually, the engine bay is much more quiet, but the exhaust itself sounds meaner. Nice trade, I would say.
  14. It doesn't sound so mean since I fixed the exhaust manifold leaks, haha. But thanks!
  15. Believe it or not, you can actually remove the ethanol from regular fuel pretty easily. If you take a gallon of gas and mix it with approximately 8 ounces of water, give it a good shake and let it settle, the water will pull the ethanol out and settle to the bottom. You can then drain that water/ethanol mix from the bottom and you are left with pure gasoline. Now, a couple of caveats. This will reduce the octane rating of the leftover gas. So you will probably need to add an octane booster if you plan to use it in your vehicle. Also, playing around with gas can be dangerous, so proceed with caution.
  16. Boss engine or not, you have one nice looking ride there. Enjoy it regardless! However, as others have said, you can take a look at the damper, which is probably the easiest thing to do. Other fairly simple things to check would be to pull a valve cover to see if you have the Boss screw in studs/adjustable rockers. I believe someone else mentioned it already, but you could pull a spark plug and take a look at the piston with a snake camera.
  17. That is awesome. Looking forward to seeing the restoration unfold. It is certainly worth your while to restore it as original as possible. Based on what you paid and the condition, you are in line for a nice pay day down the road if you do decide to sell it.
  18. Man, that's a steal either way! Can't fault a guy for taking advantage of a good deal when he finds one. Do you also have the matching numbers drivetrain? Or are the motor and transmission not original to the car?
  19. Honestly, the more I see that car, the more I realize you have a gem. You might not realize it based on the current condition, but you have an awesome base to work with. With such little rust compared to most cars, it's not going to take a lot to get things fixed up. As others have mentioned, being a 429 car, you are going to end up with a high value car at the end of the day. Don't cut out good metal needlessly and when you weld in the patches, use proper butt welds, etc. And as I suspected, your cowl doesn't appear that bad. It appeared you only had a small rusted out area at the base of the hat. Should be possible to repair it from the bottom. Also, sorry if I missed it, but you have the matching motor and toploader, right? Do you mind sharing how much you paid?
  20. Nice, you should be easily able to patch in that same section from the new pan. Based on how nice your floor looks overall, I'd say your cowl probably isn't that bad either. No doubt there are some holes in there, most likely right around the hat area. If it's not too bad, it would be a good time to see if you can repair it from the bottom.
  21. Honestly, you can probably do a decent cowl repair from the bottom, now that you removed the factory heater box. In my case, I replaced the floor years ago and didn't address the cowl until recently, when I installed the Classic Auto Air system. Since that system blocks off the cowl vent anyway, I just cut out all the cancer from the bottom and welded in a good metal patch closing it all off.
  22. I think it is in your best interest to keep as much original metal as possible. See what things look like after you get to it with a sand blaster or wire wheel. If you only have a few small sections that are bad, I'd just cut out patches from the new panel. Is that car factory AC? Reason I ask, it seems only the passenger floor is bad. In my case, my car was factory AC. The driver's side floor was mint, and the passenger floor was horrible. I had to do a full passenger pan, front to back. You are probably also aware, but the reason the floors rot out is the rusted cowl vents/hat. You will probably need a plan to address that at some point.
  23. I must say, the floor didn't appear all that bad based on what I saw in the video. You sure you need to cut out and install that entire section? You might be able to get away with cutting out and patching just a few sections here and there.
  24. I figured it was worth making a few notes on my installation experience, for anyone curious in the future. The installation was pretty straightforward, but the instructions from CAA are vague in some areas and downright inaccurate in others. It wasn't all that hard to improvise. Here are a few tips: 1. You do not need to pull the whole dash. You do need to remove the top of the dash, glove box door/insert, passenger kick panel, and center console. Speedo panel optional, I left it in place, but it would give you more room to work with for the driver's side duct. I recommend pulling the passenger seat also, as it will give you more room to work with. This is especially important when removing the factory heater box. 2. While you are back there, run the orange wire loom for the heater valve through the firewall. It's also a good spot to run your own wire out to the engine bay which will eventually connect to the high pressure switch. The wires on the switch itself are not nearly long enough to reach, so you need your own wire 3. Before installing the CAA heater box, install the drip tube and install the defrost ducts to the correct ports on box. Much easier to fish the drip tube out the firewall into the engine bay than vice versa. With the defrost ducts, It's very hard to reach those ports once the box is installed with the dash in place. 4. You can *barely* reach the drivers vent with the supplied ducting. You also have to end up using one of the ports marked for the center section. Not a big deal, since they all shoot out air the same. But it won't reach if you use the designated port. The side vent adapters supplied are also way to big. Literally only one side will mount. Move both clips to the outside edge and mount to the factory vent. The ducting will pull it and keep them securely in place. The center adapter was too small. I had to cut it on the side to get it to mate up. 5. I tapped into the brown wire with orange stripe which went to the original heater switch for power. It is connected directly to the fuse box, 30A if you had factory air. CAA calls for a 20A fuse, you can easily swap it out. Well, those were the main issues. If I think of anything else, I will update this post. Thanks!
  25. Right, but this really only applies to factory AC cars who have the 3rd AC belt slot on the crank and are using the factory AC brackets and idler.
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