Jump to content


VIP Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by trillizo_y_uno

  1. I swapped over to a 2 row aluminum radiator 8 years ago when my brass radiator started leaking.  Still going strong without a single issue.  While I was in there, I also swapped out the water pump, hoses, and went with a 180 degree 351C correct thermostat.  I was worried the 2 row wouldn't provide enough cooling after dropping in Classic Auto Air AC.  However even on the hottest days sitting at idle, the temp stays at the bottom of the normal range on the stock gauge.

    Regarding electrolysis, I don't believe an aluminum radiator is anymore susceptible to it than copper or brass.  Make sure your grounds are good, radiator isolated from ground, and don't use tap water.

    • Thanks 1
  2. On 7/16/2021 at 5:55 PM, Kilgon said:

    Thanks for the follow up.  I currently have a Duraspark with MSD setup.  I like the idea of being able to change the timing so easily along with the other features the Progression Ignition offers.  I guess I'll add it on the "to get list" along with the new Addco sway bars and the Classic Auto Air unit.  

    No problem.  Last summer I did the Progression Ignition swap and Classic Auto Air install.  I also had the free time to drop the toploader to replace all seals and gaskets.  I had plenty of time on my hands due to COVID.

    I should mention two of my favorite features of Progression Ignition.  First, I can set my idle timing really low without it impacting anything else.  For example, I have timing set at 10 degrees BTDC at idle, but I have it set to be all in at 36 degrees by 2800 RPM.  By dropping timing really low at idle, I get a nice and smooth idle without the eye burning exhaust.  And I don't sacrifice performance, since the timing curve bumps up instantly off idle.  Second, I never have to use the manual choke on the carb anymore.  If RPM dips below idle, the unit bumps up the timing to increase idle speed to compensate.

    • Like 1
  3. 5 hours ago, Kilgon said:

    I am getting ready to start some upgrades and have also looked into these.   I'm having problems finding any real independent ratings or reviews. 

    I know yours is working well but before I consider putting out that kind of money I would like to find more input from people that have them. In your research did you come across any other reviews other than on their website?  

    I had actually heard about Progression Ignition initially through a 3rd party YouTube video.  They were doing an install on a 351w, if I remember correctly.  I remember thinking how slick the setup looked, and the YouTuber also gave it rave reviews.  I can't remember what I paid exactly at the time, but it was north of $400.  I believe they sell for over $500 now.  I understand the hesitancy and simply diving in.  But for comparison, a Duraspark swap with the dizzy, box, and harness will probably at least run you close to that.  As would an MSD setup, etc.  Not to mention, you will never get such advanced features with any other setup.  So I figured, why not?

    I will also say, the unit has been flawless.  I have reached out to the owner a few times with questions, and he is always prompt to respond.  After I had purchased the unit, I had inquired about buying a male cap.  He just sent me one, free of charge.  Super nice guy!

    • Thanks 1
  4. We adopted a 1 year old pit bull in February of last year, just before COVID hit.  She is the sweetest dog you will ever meet.  Well, unless you are a rabbit, groundhog, chipmunk, squirrel, mouse, etc.  That freaking dog is a professional vermin terminator.

    We actually had a few groundhogs lurking around, and it was basically impossible to get rid of them.  They would also murder my neighbors garden.  Yeah, the dog took care of that problem.  At any rate, we certainly didn't adopt the dog to cut down on the vermin population.  But she has literally wiped them all out.  Well, except the rabbits.  Those freaking things just keep multiplying.  My dog kills at least one per week in our backyard.

  5. 10 hours ago, Trevynd said:

    Is it that obvious? Hahah no I did not. 
    they were in decent shape, and the upholstery guy added some skrim? I think he called it. I probably should of but that’s what I get for trying to save a buck 

    LOL, that was going to be my one critique also.  I was thinking either your upholstery guy sucks, or you didn't replace the foam.  I replaced the foam when I did mine several years ago now.  The seats both still look and feel great.  At some point, I think it still might be worth your while to change out the foam.  Also, I haven't checked lately, but when I did mine, nobody was making new foam for the backseat.  I had no choice but to re-use it.  Thankfully the foam was in decent shape, and you can't tell at all.

    Otherwise, love the updates.  Great job man!

    • Like 1
  6. On 12/30/2020 at 12:40 PM, Ron Tanzi said:

    Are using the Fel Pro 1682 VC gaskets with the stock stamped steel valve covers? Summit states that they may not work with stock covers. I would love to use them on my engine if possible. You are correct they are pricey. Happy new year!! Thanks, Ron 

    Actually I am using them with a set of Boss 351 valve covers.  No idea if there would be any issues with the stock 351C valve covers.

  7. The Mach 1 name itself just carries a certain "baddassery" to it.  Sure, it literally had nothing to do with making the car go faster.  But cooler?  Undoubtedly.  Can't fault Ford for creating an iconic brand and making a few bucks off of it.  There is a reason people restore these cars and slap Mach 1 badging on converts, sportsroofs, and otherwise.  The brand matters.

  8. Get a set of FelPro 1682 silicon valve cover gaskets.  You can remove and replace your valve covers at will and those gaskets just keep on trucking.  They are also very forgiving if your mating surfaces aren't true.  The only downside is the price.  I think a set will run you around $70.

  9. 41 minutes ago, Kilgon said:

    Once again another great video.  You are making a lot of progress and it is starting to show.  I envy the fact that your wife is able to work along side of you.  What a great way to be restoring your car.   Keep up the good work.  PS - if you get tired of your wife you can send her my way - I'll even pay the air fare.  :biggrin:

    Seriously, it's great your wife is along for the ride.  Literally.  My wife will "allow" me to cart her around for a drive once in awhile...

    • Like 1
  10. 41 minutes ago, MeanMachine said:

    So right, I was a big fan of 460s back in the early '90s (still am) and remember the bias toward Chevy 454s. But what may be more odd is the division among Ford fans over pushrod vs overhead cam engines, and the bias towards the modular 5.0L. Is it me, or does it seem that Mustangs with Coyote engine transplants get all the attention? It is a great engine, no doubt (I have one), but seems like the trend is to fit a modular 5.0 into every restomod out there, as if it's the only real engine of choice.

    And when comparing 302s, (5.0 Coyote vs 5.0 Windsor), I've read comments implying Windsor inferiority and the blocks splitting at 500 horse. Ironically enough, Richard Holdener did a video recently about that 'theory' and tested 9 different combinations of 500+ horsepower Windsors on a dyno, some engines having had hundreds of tests done.....without splitting the block. (things that make ya go "hmmm")

    Speaking of Richard Holdener, he recently showed a factory 351C M code pulling 450HP with a simple cam and intake swap


  11. Nobody is going to accuse Project Farm of following scientific method.  But he has a loyal following and I believe his experiments have merit regardless.

    I do agree with Stanglover, it would be best to avoid ethanol all together.  Also, I believe the reason ethanol became en vogue was partly to offset rising oil costs, but mostly as a way to provide a government subsidy to corn farmers.  It would be hard to take that subsidy away at this point.  We certainly pump more than enough oil domestically with the rise of fracking to dump ethanol entirely.

  12. 15 hours ago, machattack said:


    If you treat ethanol gas with marine Stabil 360 it is suppose to neutralize the Ethanol in the gas. It also will stabilize the fuel for 6 months or so. The stabilizer in stabil works well. But many varying factors to how long it will last such as direct sun or shaded fuel container. Heat seems to break it down stabilizers in gas quicker.  

    Project Farm on YouTube did a test on various fuel stabilizers and ethanol  several months back.  You can watch it here:

    The short version is, while stabilizers may extend the shelf life of fuel with ethanol, there is no product that can neutralize ethanol and it's damaging effects.

  13. 15 hours ago, Djustham said:


    Its got like a 2" damper. Ive got a snake camera, what should I look for on the piston?

    Stanglover posted a picture of a Boss piston earlier in this thread.  See if your pistons look like that.  You might also be able to use the snake camera to look for the screw in studs if you don't want to pull off a valve cover.

    • Like 1
  • Create New...