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trillizo_y_uno

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Everything posted by trillizo_y_uno

  1. It doesn't sound so mean since I fixed the exhaust manifold leaks, haha. But thanks!
  2. Believe it or not, you can actually remove the ethanol from regular fuel pretty easily. If you take a gallon of gas and mix it with approximately 8 ounces of water, give it a good shake and let it settle, the water will pull the ethanol out and settle to the bottom. You can then drain that water/ethanol mix from the bottom and you are left with pure gasoline. Now, a couple of caveats. This will reduce the octane rating of the leftover gas. So you will probably need to add an octane booster if you plan to use it in your vehicle. Also, playing around with gas can be dangerous, so proceed with caution.
  3. Boss engine or not, you have one nice looking ride there. Enjoy it regardless! However, as others have said, you can take a look at the damper, which is probably the easiest thing to do. Other fairly simple things to check would be to pull a valve cover to see if you have the Boss screw in studs/adjustable rockers. I believe someone else mentioned it already, but you could pull a spark plug and take a look at the piston with a snake camera.
  4. That is awesome. Looking forward to seeing the restoration unfold. It is certainly worth your while to restore it as original as possible. Based on what you paid and the condition, you are in line for a nice pay day down the road if you do decide to sell it.
  5. Man, that's a steal either way! Can't fault a guy for taking advantage of a good deal when he finds one. Do you also have the matching numbers drivetrain? Or are the motor and transmission not original to the car?
  6. Honestly, the more I see that car, the more I realize you have a gem. You might not realize it based on the current condition, but you have an awesome base to work with. With such little rust compared to most cars, it's not going to take a lot to get things fixed up. As others have mentioned, being a 429 car, you are going to end up with a high value car at the end of the day. Don't cut out good metal needlessly and when you weld in the patches, use proper butt welds, etc. And as I suspected, your cowl doesn't appear that bad. It appeared you only had a small rusted out area at the base of the hat. Should be possible to repair it from the bottom. Also, sorry if I missed it, but you have the matching motor and toploader, right? Do you mind sharing how much you paid?
  7. Nice, you should be easily able to patch in that same section from the new pan. Based on how nice your floor looks overall, I'd say your cowl probably isn't that bad either. No doubt there are some holes in there, most likely right around the hat area. If it's not too bad, it would be a good time to see if you can repair it from the bottom.
  8. Honestly, you can probably do a decent cowl repair from the bottom, now that you removed the factory heater box. In my case, I replaced the floor years ago and didn't address the cowl until recently, when I installed the Classic Auto Air system. Since that system blocks off the cowl vent anyway, I just cut out all the cancer from the bottom and welded in a good metal patch closing it all off.
  9. I think it is in your best interest to keep as much original metal as possible. See what things look like after you get to it with a sand blaster or wire wheel. If you only have a few small sections that are bad, I'd just cut out patches from the new panel. Is that car factory AC? Reason I ask, it seems only the passenger floor is bad. In my case, my car was factory AC. The driver's side floor was mint, and the passenger floor was horrible. I had to do a full passenger pan, front to back. You are probably also aware, but the reason the floors rot out is the rusted cowl vents/hat. You will probably need a plan to address that at some point.
  10. I must say, the floor didn't appear all that bad based on what I saw in the video. You sure you need to cut out and install that entire section? You might be able to get away with cutting out and patching just a few sections here and there.
  11. I figured it was worth making a few notes on my installation experience, for anyone curious in the future. The installation was pretty straightforward, but the instructions from CAA are vague in some areas and downright inaccurate in others. It wasn't all that hard to improvise. Here are a few tips: 1. You do not need to pull the whole dash. You do need to remove the top of the dash, glove box door/insert, passenger kick panel, and center console. Speedo panel optional, I left it in place, but it would give you more room to work with for the driver's side duct. I recommend pulling the passenger seat also, as it will give you more room to work with. This is especially important when removing the factory heater box. 2. While you are back there, run the orange wire loom for the heater valve through the firewall. It's also a good spot to run your own wire out to the engine bay which will eventually connect to the high pressure switch. The wires on the switch itself are not nearly long enough to reach, so you need your own wire 3. Before installing the CAA heater box, install the drip tube and install the defrost ducts to the correct ports on box. Much easier to fish the drip tube out the firewall into the engine bay than vice versa. With the defrost ducts, It's very hard to reach those ports once the box is installed with the dash in place. 4. You can *barely* reach the drivers vent with the supplied ducting. You also have to end up using one of the ports marked for the center section. Not a big deal, since they all shoot out air the same. But it won't reach if you use the designated port. The side vent adapters supplied are also way to big. Literally only one side will mount. Move both clips to the outside edge and mount to the factory vent. The ducting will pull it and keep them securely in place. The center adapter was too small. I had to cut it on the side to get it to mate up. 5. I tapped into the brown wire with orange stripe which went to the original heater switch for power. It is connected directly to the fuse box, 30A if you had factory air. CAA calls for a 20A fuse, you can easily swap it out. Well, those were the main issues. If I think of anything else, I will update this post. Thanks!
  12. Right, but this really only applies to factory AC cars who have the 3rd AC belt slot on the crank and are using the factory AC brackets and idler.
  13. Yeah, that bracket is essential to secure the idler pulley to the compressor. Without it you only have it mounted via the 2 bolts to the water pump housing and it's just not very secure/stable. It sucks that CAA has a long history of shipping these kits without that bracket and they continue to do so. You literally cannot properly secure the Sanden compressor to the factory brackets without it. Also, it took about 3 weeks for me to get my kit after I ordered it. I had no issue with that, CAA was upfront about the delays due to the pandemic. But what really stinks currently, I cannot get in contact with CAA at all. I realize Texas (where they are based) is in a bad way right now. But they don't answer the phone, reply to voicemails, emails, or messages left via website. No indication on their website or via phone messaging they are shut down either. Overall, not very impressed with their service. Having said all that, I have no idea if/when I might hear back from CAA. I don't want to simply order the bracket via their website and wait another 3 weeks for it. So I simply ordered the bracket from CJPP. Cost me an additional $50, but they had it in stock and I will have it tomorrow via overnight shipping. I simply want to wrap this project up at this point and enjoy the ride for a bit. Thanks to all for their assistance!
  14. Well, I think I answered my own question. Looks like they didn't include this bracket: https://www.originalair.com/sanden-idler-adapter-kit
  15. Ok, Duralast 17550 it is! That saves me the hassle of doing the string thing, thank you! One other question for you and Mister 4x4, what did the bracket they supplied you look like to allow the Sanden compressor to mount? Literally the last thing I need to do is mount the compressor, I have the factory bracket and pulley in place. They supplied me a bracket which mounts to the bottom of the factory bracket to allow the Sanden compressor to mount to it, but nothing more. Based in pictures I have seen, there appears to be a small adapter bracket which attaches the top of the compressor to the pulley assembly. Thanks!
  16. I don't suppose anyone knows the correct belt/size I'll need to get the compressor spinning? I had factory air and am using the original brackets and pulley with the new compressor. I'm sure I could just use string method to measure, but figured it was easy to ask.
  17. Yes, very easy. I didn't go through the extra trouble of fitting like jtassin did. My seat brackets allowed enough bend to install as it. The extra 2 inches of foot space they provide is a Godsend!
  18. Nice pics, thanks for sharing. Tough to beat a 4spd M code, AKA the Boss 351's baby brother. They only made 4491 M codes with a 4 speed.
  19. In my case, I did have factory AC. I just went ahead and removed it all. Motor, housing, etc. Based on the instructions it appears the stock defrost vent is just about the only thing retained from the stock system.
  20. In stock form, the heater box and blower are separate. So when you pull the box, it separates from the blower, which under the dash. Classic Auto Air does have them paired together however.
  21. To those that have installed Classic Auto Air, did you end up removing the factory blower motor? I know it's not needed, since the Classic Auto Air has it's own blower. Just wondering if the factory blower needs to be removed for space, or if it's just left in place. Thank you
  22. Yes, those are the ones. But they don't install on the floor, as they indicate in the picture. They install between the seat and seat tracks, so they basically just allow the seat to move further back without altering where the tracks mount to the floor.
  23. I noticed the same issue when I did mine. If I remember right, the issue was more pronounced on the front end. You could slide in a couple of washers. But I decided to just go for it and tighten the tracks down. I had a spare set of tracks on hand, so I figured if anything went wrong, I was covered. At any rate, the tracks did flex just a bit as a result, but it didn't in any way impact their structural integrity or operation. No issues to this day, they have been solid. And a super worthwhile upgrade for comfort I might add, especially for us long legged folks.
  24. Pictures would help, and more so if you pull the carpet back. Does the car have AC? If so, the driver's side floor is probably in better shape, since there is no cowl vent hat on the driver's side of AC cars to rot out and let water in.
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