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Everything posted by trillizo_y_uno

  1. Yeah, that bracket is essential to secure the idler pulley to the compressor. Without it you only have it mounted via the 2 bolts to the water pump housing and it's just not very secure/stable. It sucks that CAA has a long history of shipping these kits without that bracket and they continue to do so. You literally cannot properly secure the Sanden compressor to the factory brackets without it. Also, it took about 3 weeks for me to get my kit after I ordered it. I had no issue with that, CAA was upfront about the delays due to the pandemic. But what really stinks currently, I cannot get in contact with CAA at all. I realize Texas (where they are based) is in a bad way right now. But they don't answer the phone, reply to voicemails, emails, or messages left via website. No indication on their website or via phone messaging they are shut down either. Overall, not very impressed with their service. Having said all that, I have no idea if/when I might hear back from CAA. I don't want to simply order the bracket via their website and wait another 3 weeks for it. So I simply ordered the bracket from CJPP. Cost me an additional $50, but they had it in stock and I will have it tomorrow via overnight shipping. I simply want to wrap this project up at this point and enjoy the ride for a bit. Thanks to all for their assistance!
  2. Well, I think I answered my own question. Looks like they didn't include this bracket: https://www.originalair.com/sanden-idler-adapter-kit
  3. Ok, Duralast 17550 it is! That saves me the hassle of doing the string thing, thank you! One other question for you and Mister 4x4, what did the bracket they supplied you look like to allow the Sanden compressor to mount? Literally the last thing I need to do is mount the compressor, I have the factory bracket and pulley in place. They supplied me a bracket which mounts to the bottom of the factory bracket to allow the Sanden compressor to mount to it, but nothing more. Based in pictures I have seen, there appears to be a small adapter bracket which attaches the top of the compressor to the pulley assembly. Thanks!
  4. I don't suppose anyone knows the correct belt/size I'll need to get the compressor spinning? I had factory air and am using the original brackets and pulley with the new compressor. I'm sure I could just use string method to measure, but figured it was easy to ask.
  5. Yes, very easy. I didn't go through the extra trouble of fitting like jtassin did. My seat brackets allowed enough bend to install as it. The extra 2 inches of foot space they provide is a Godsend!
  6. Nice pics, thanks for sharing. Tough to beat a 4spd M code, AKA the Boss 351's baby brother. They only made 4491 M codes with a 4 speed.
  7. In my case, I did have factory AC. I just went ahead and removed it all. Motor, housing, etc. Based on the instructions it appears the stock defrost vent is just about the only thing retained from the stock system.
  8. In stock form, the heater box and blower are separate. So when you pull the box, it separates from the blower, which under the dash. Classic Auto Air does have them paired together however.
  9. To those that have installed Classic Auto Air, did you end up removing the factory blower motor? I know it's not needed, since the Classic Auto Air has it's own blower. Just wondering if the factory blower needs to be removed for space, or if it's just left in place. Thank you
  10. Yes, those are the ones. But they don't install on the floor, as they indicate in the picture. They install between the seat and seat tracks, so they basically just allow the seat to move further back without altering where the tracks mount to the floor.
  11. I noticed the same issue when I did mine. If I remember right, the issue was more pronounced on the front end. You could slide in a couple of washers. But I decided to just go for it and tighten the tracks down. I had a spare set of tracks on hand, so I figured if anything went wrong, I was covered. At any rate, the tracks did flex just a bit as a result, but it didn't in any way impact their structural integrity or operation. No issues to this day, they have been solid. And a super worthwhile upgrade for comfort I might add, especially for us long legged folks.
  12. Pictures would help, and more so if you pull the carpet back. Does the car have AC? If so, the driver's side floor is probably in better shape, since there is no cowl vent hat on the driver's side of AC cars to rot out and let water in.
  13. Before you consider having the floor pans fixed, realize the reason the floor rusted out in the first place is due to your cowl. The floor pan literally rusts from the inside out from all the water leaking onto to it over the years from the cowl. Having said that, if you don't plan to garage your car and keep it out of the elements, your going to have the same issue down the road. Basically, it doesn't make a lot of sense to fix the floor pans without fixing the cowl also.
  14. I must also say, their customer service is great. I asked Ted (the owner) about acquiring and additional male cap so I could swap my plugs over. I originally ordered my distributor with a female cap. He sent me one free of charge. Jeff, would anything prevent you from simply removing the stock gear and pressing on your bronze gear?
  15. They actually offer both types, HEI with the coil built in, or small cap utilizing an external coil. I obviously went with the small cap/external coil option knowing I wanted to keep my Ram Air setup.
  16. Here you go: I went with the female cap option, since it fit my current setup. However by default it comes with a male cap. Not sure if the male cap would provide any more or less clearance. Either way, you can see I'm right up against it as far as space goes with the ram air cleaner.
  17. I didn't take any detailed pictures of the install itself. I mean, it's a distributor, nothing fancy about the installation process. I can snap a picture of what it looks like installed a bit later if you like.
  18. I got around to installing and the unit this weekend. For reference, I have a 1971 Mach 1, 351C 4V, with a 4 speed toploader. The installation was simple and straightforward. Drop in the distributor, connect the vacuum line, then wire it up. As far as wiring, there are only 3 wires to connect the harness (4 if you wire in a tach), negative & positive on the coil, ground, and the optional tach output. Once you are good to go, crank up the engine and set timing to 10 degrees BTDC. Below is how I setup my curve: And here is the resulting table: I didn't tweak any of the values at all in the table above. But as you can see, you can customize each field or section as needed. Something I noticed right away, I have a manual choke carb and no longer need to use it during a cold start. As you can see by the table above, when RPMs drop below your idle range, timing is bumped up which then increases idle back up. Also, the unit retards timing to 10 degrees BTDC during cranking, so starting is a breeze. As far as driveability, I would say it is a noticeable improvement over my old Duraspark I setup. The engine just feels like it wants to take off at all times, even applying minimal throttle. Eventually I'll play with the timing a bit to see what limits I can push. But I'd like to cycle through the old gas that's been sitting in the tank all winter first. I must say, it's nice to be able to make on the fly adjustments from your phone, without the need to pop the hood. Especially for those folks that have AC, adjusting the timing can be a PITA. One other thing worth mentioning, the distributor *just* fits under a stock Ram Air setup. I also have a 1/2 inch spacer under my carb, which is about all you can get away with having Ram Air. Without the spacer, I would not have had enough clearance. Let me know if you have any questions. I'll have more feedback once I get to test it out more.
  19. I actually downloaded the app via Google Play and played around with it a bit before making the decision to purchase. They have an offline mode you can enter without connecting to the distributor itself. This enables you to play around with the parameters and generate timing tables. Once you generate the table, there are 144 entry points within the table which you can customize.
  20. I've been running a Duraspark I (red) setup for several years. I have the distributor recurved with a 10L reluctor, softer springs, and 10 degrees of vacuum advance, 16 degrees of initial timing Honestly, the setup has been flawless and the engine runs great. But after debating the idea for a couple of months, I pulled the plug and purchased one of their distributors. There is a lot to like and the intrigue factor is pretty high. But at the end of the day it will be great to have precise timing adjustments at your fingertips, without fiddling around in the engine bay. I'm expecting this to be everything the Duraspark setup was, and a lot more. Plus, I won't miss the extra clutter the Duraspark box and Painless wiring harness add to the engine bay. I'll post more updates once I receive the unit, get it installed, and up and running.
  21. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/d/san-ramon-1973-ford-mustang-convertible/7123468540.html Dang, $50K for this one? I wonder if the claims are true. For certain the side stripes are wrong, and the engine bay looks a bit rough for a car with only 3k miles.
  22. Hey Greg, Curious, how did the extension brackets mount up to the rear holes? Or did you simply shim the rear to account for the space? I just can't envision the brackets doing anything on the rear mounts, since they are perpendicular on the seat platform.
  23. Black paint in and of itself is pretty rare, but even more so on a Boss 351. The fact that it has Red Boss Decor is amazing. I'd love to see some pictures of it.
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