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trillizo_y_uno

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Posts posted by trillizo_y_uno

  1. Believe it or not, you can actually remove the ethanol from regular fuel pretty easily.  If you take a gallon of gas and mix it with approximately 8 ounces of water, give it a good shake and let it settle, the water will pull the ethanol out and settle to the bottom.  You can then drain that water/ethanol mix from the bottom and you are left with pure gasoline.

    Now, a couple of caveats.  This will reduce the octane rating of the leftover gas.  So you will probably need to add an octane booster if you plan to use it in your vehicle.  Also, playing around with gas can be dangerous, so proceed with caution.

     

  2. Boss engine or not, you have one nice looking ride there.  Enjoy it regardless!

    However, as others have said, you can take a look at the damper, which is probably the easiest thing to do.  Other fairly simple things to check would be to pull a valve cover to see if you have the Boss screw in studs/adjustable rockers.  I believe someone else mentioned it already, but you could pull a spark plug and take a look at the piston with a snake camera.

  3. 32 minutes ago, Trevynd said:

    Sorry I forgot to reply yes and yes. OG engine and tranny! 
    the engine is at the machine shop and tranny is on my bench I’m getting ready to clean and re seal :) and paint 

     

     

    That is awesome.  Looking forward to seeing the restoration unfold.  It is certainly worth your while to restore it as original as possible.  Based on what you paid and the condition, you are in line for a nice pay day down the road if you do decide to sell it.

  4. 1 hour ago, Trevynd said:

    I feel like theres definitely been worse rust buckets out there that amazing people have brought back to life so i can appreciate what i have for sure. However, the rust repair always sucks. but i gotta keep going. I def want to do things the right way and not cut out more metal than i need. but yeah the cowl is not completely rotted through compared to some ive seen.ive definitley been trying to figured out how i can go about and patch it. at this point i supposed it doesnt hurt to try, and if i cant at least i know i can get a replacement.

    i have not advertised price i bought it for due to others on this site that were interested in the rig and i wanted to be respectful to them and the seller but i will say more than 5 less than 10. 

     

    Thanks for watching and giving your input!

    Man, that's a steal either way!  Can't fault a guy for taking advantage of a good deal when he finds one.  Do you also have the matching numbers drivetrain?  Or are the motor and transmission not original to the car?

  5. Honestly, the more I see that car, the more I realize you have a gem.  You might not realize it based on the current condition, but you have an awesome base to work with.  With such little rust compared to most cars, it's not going to take a lot to get things fixed up.  As others have mentioned, being a 429 car, you are going to end up with a high value car at the end of the day.  Don't cut out good metal needlessly and when you weld in the patches, use proper butt welds, etc.  And as I suspected, your cowl doesn't appear that bad.  It appeared you only had a small rusted out area at the base of the hat.  Should be possible to repair it from the bottom.

    Also, sorry if I missed it, but you have the matching motor and toploader, right?  Do you mind sharing how much you paid?

  6. 7 hours ago, Trevynd said:

    Decided to cut out the worst of it tonight 

    69579C00-AA59-4B2D-8396-DAD6051070C0.jpeg

    Nice, you should be easily able to patch in that same section from the new pan.  Based on how nice your floor looks overall, I'd say your cowl probably isn't that bad either.  No doubt there are some holes in there, most likely right around the hat area.  If it's not too bad, it would be a good time to see if you can repair it from the bottom.

  7. 14 minutes ago, Trevynd said:

    Man you are right on the money yes it is AC and yes the drivers side is all mint and clean. And yes I was looking at the cowl I’ll def do some more investigating 

    hopefully it isn’t too bad but ya never know till ya get in there

    Honestly, you can probably do a decent cowl repair from the bottom, now that you removed the factory heater box.  In my case, I replaced the floor years ago and didn't address the cowl until recently, when I installed the Classic Auto Air system.  Since that system blocks off the cowl vent anyway, I just cut out all the cancer from the bottom and welded in a good metal patch closing it all off.

  8. 41 minutes ago, Trevynd said:

     You know that’s funny you mention that, I may be able to get away with it because like you mentioned it wasn’t as bad as I thought. I suppose I can wait till after blasting to see how bad it truly is. Maybe just patch instead if need be

    I think it is in your best interest to keep as much original metal as possible.  See what things look like after you get to it with a sand blaster or wire wheel.  If you only have a few small sections that are bad, I'd just cut out patches from the new panel.  Is that car factory AC?  Reason I ask, it seems only the passenger floor is bad.

    In my case, my car was factory AC.  The driver's side floor was mint, and the passenger floor was horrible.  I had to do a full passenger pan, front to back.  You are probably also aware, but the reason the floors rot out is the rusted cowl vents/hat.  You will probably need a plan to address that at some point.

  9. I figured it was worth making a few notes on my installation experience, for anyone curious in the future.  The installation was pretty straightforward, but the instructions from CAA are vague in some areas and downright inaccurate in others.  It wasn't all that hard to improvise.  Here are a few tips:

    1.  You do not need to pull the whole dash.  You do need to remove the top of the dash, glove box door/insert, passenger kick panel, and center console.  Speedo panel optional, I left it in place, but it would give you more room to work with for the driver's side duct.  I recommend pulling the passenger seat also, as it will give you more room to work with.  This is especially important when removing the factory heater box.

    2.  While you are back there, run the orange wire loom for the heater valve through the firewall.  It's also a good spot to run your own wire out to the engine bay which will eventually connect to the high pressure switch.  The wires on the switch itself are not nearly long enough to reach, so you need your own wire

    3.  Before installing the CAA heater box, install the drip tube and install the defrost ducts to the correct ports on box.  Much easier to fish the drip tube out the firewall into the engine bay than vice versa.  With the defrost ducts, It's very hard to reach those ports once the box is installed with the dash in place.

    4.  You can *barely* reach the drivers vent with the supplied ducting.  You also have to end up using one of the ports marked for the center section.  Not a big deal, since they all shoot out air the same.  But it won't reach if you use the designated port.  The side vent adapters supplied are also way to big.  Literally only one side will mount.  Move both clips to the outside edge and mount to the factory vent.  The ducting will pull it and keep them securely in place.  The center adapter was too small.  I had to cut it on the side to get it to mate up.

    5.  I tapped into the brown wire with orange stripe which went to the original heater switch for power.  It is connected directly to the fuse box, 30A if you had factory air.  CAA calls for a 20A fuse, you can easily swap it out.

    Well, those were the main issues.  If I think of anything else, I will update this post.

    Thanks!

     

    • Like 1
  10. 1 hour ago, 71coop said:

    FWIW - I’m running mine without that bracket and on the PS/water pump pulleys. I gave the kit for a heater-only car - no issues so far. It cools my interior well.

    Right, but this really only applies to factory AC cars who have the 3rd AC belt slot on the crank and are using the factory AC brackets and idler.

  11. Yeah, that bracket is essential to secure the idler pulley to the compressor.  Without it you only have it mounted via the 2 bolts to the water pump housing and it's just not very secure/stable.

    It sucks that CAA has a long history of shipping these kits without that bracket and they continue to do so.  You literally cannot properly secure the Sanden compressor to the factory brackets without it.  Also, it took about 3 weeks for me to get my kit after I ordered it.  I had no issue with that, CAA was upfront about the delays due to the pandemic.  But what really stinks currently, I cannot get in contact with CAA at all.  I realize Texas (where they are based) is in a bad way right now.  But they don't answer the phone, reply to voicemails, emails, or messages left via website.  No indication on their website or via phone messaging they are shut down either.  Overall, not very impressed with their service.

    Having said all that, I have no idea if/when I might hear back from CAA.  I don't want to simply order the bracket via their website and wait another 3 weeks for it.  So I simply ordered the bracket from CJPP.  Cost me an additional $50, but they had it in stock and I will have it tomorrow via overnight shipping.  I simply want to wrap this project up at this point and enjoy the ride for a bit.

    Thanks to all for their assistance!

  12. 48 minutes ago, mezell29 said:

    As luck would have it, I keep every receipt. I used a Duralast 17550 which is what Autozone showed for the car. Fit perfect. I have the cardboard from around the belt in my hand! That said, that's for use with the idler that attaches to the bracket as my car was factory air. If you are looking for the longer one to use without the idler, I am not sure. 

    I agree with you Mister 4x4. As I mentioned my experience was lackluster for sure, however keep in mind that there is a location in TX and FL. FL is original parts, TX is the repro systems, so they have to order from the other one.  While I want happy with the service, the product worked well, I was just on my own to figure it out beyond the provided instructions. 

    Ok, Duralast 17550 it is!  That saves me the hassle of doing the string thing, thank you!

    One other question for you and Mister 4x4, what did the bracket they supplied you look like to allow the Sanden compressor to mount?  Literally the last thing I need to do is mount the compressor, I have the factory bracket and pulley in place.  They supplied me a bracket which mounts to the bottom of the factory bracket to allow the Sanden compressor to mount to it, but nothing more.  Based in pictures I have seen, there appears to be a small adapter bracket which attaches the top of the compressor to the pulley assembly.

    Thanks!

  13. Are these the extenders that you're using?

     

    https://www.yearone.com/Product/1964-73-mustang/sb246p#prettyPhoto

     

    Not sure how they came up with the 64-70 seats being the same as the 71-73. The front section would work, but the rear needs some sort of spacer and preferably a bracket to support the rear of the track against the floorpan.

     

    Yes, those are the ones.  But they don't install on the floor, as they indicate in the picture.  They install between the seat and seat tracks, so they basically just allow the seat to move further back without altering where the tracks mount to the floor.

  14. Hey guys & gals.

     

    I'm 6'2" and am trying to add these extenders to my seat tracks.  When I bolt the extender plates to the seat and then try to add the tracks; the tracks seem to have a bow in them which I think is the way they are suppose to be.  But when I try to add the tracks, the tracks are hitting the bolt that the extender plate bolted to the seat (front) and leaves about a 1/4" gap between extender plate and seat track.  If I tighten too much i may been the tracks.  I tried to find seat bolts (3/8"-16X1") with a shallow head and have been unsuccessful.  Any one have any suggestions without adding a bunch of washers.  I really don't want to do it that way.   By the way, I have 1972 mustang mach 1 with bucket seats.

     

    Thanks,

    Jimmy t.

     

     

    I noticed the same issue when I did mine. If I remember right, the issue was more pronounced on the front end. You could slide in a couple of washers. But I decided to just go for it and tighten the tracks down. I had a spare set of tracks on hand, so I figured if anything went wrong, I was covered. At any rate, the tracks did flex just a bit as a result, but it didn't in any way impact their structural integrity or operation. No issues to this day, they have been solid. And a super worthwhile upgrade for comfort I might add, especially for us long legged folks.

  15. I’ll go under and try to take some photos, but the passenger side seems to be sagging a bit. The floor has been patched with sheet metal screws and pop rivets in a few places, but along the rockers it looks like many of the pinch welds are rusted out. Think it’s mostly the cumulative wear and tear of 47 years in New Jersey. I can just weld some braces in, or do I need to pull the engine and trans and mount the body on a jig?

     

    Pictures would help, and more so if you pull the carpet back.  Does the car have AC?  If so, the driver's side floor is probably in better shape, since there is no cowl vent hat on the driver's side of AC cars to rot out and let water in.

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