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Everything posted by trillizo_y_uno

  1. Well, there were 5,502 people who ordered red/red (vermillion) for 1971. It may be overkill, but certainly a logical color combo.
  2. You can see it behind Jason Statham in the shop, shortly after they arrive in Samoa.
  3. Just for kicks, I was looking at outliers in Kevin Marti's Mustang by the Numbers book. Specifically for odd color combos. For example, there were 12 people in 1971 who ordered Black with a Blue interior. One of those in Boss Decor Cloth. Bold! There were 2 people who ordered a 71 Mustang in Bright Red with a Green interior. Both were fastbacks and 1 was the Mach 1 decor group. Do you think they were fans of Christmas? I love Grabber Blue, the color of my Mach 1. But the one person who bought a 71 fastback in Grabber Blue with a red interior? I wonder if any of these folks took delivery of the car and instantly regretted their decision.
  4. I originally had the P1 and Flamethrower running through the tach/resistance/red green wire. It worked fine and the tach functioned properly. I've since switched to a Duraspark setup. For this, I bypassed the resistance wire and wired the tach straight to the coil. I've had it this way for almost 3 years and aside from my tach reading slightly higher RPMs, it hasn't fried it and has run perfectly fine (despite the increased voltage through the tach). I will say, the Duraspark setup for me was marked improvement over the P1. The car runs and drives much better. Good luck!
  5. I have a 71 M Code, but, it's had stock Boss 351 valve covers on it since I bought it. They are original, with the screw down wire holders. They still have the drippers installed. The Boss 351 sticker is long gone though. I'll try to throw up a pic later...
  6. I'm going to need some help holding on to the spoiler while I rotate the car. What size wrench would that be? I don't think they make 1/2-a-car sizes. This is not a 1 man DIY job. Too many things could go wrong.
  7. lollerz So, are you proposing that they pick up the spoiler, turn the car around, and set the spoiler back down? Priceless. ::thumb:: ::thumb::
  8. Did you guys ever consider the possibility that the spoiler was placed correctly and someone mounted the car backwards???
  9. Is your car manual or auto? If manual, put the transmission in 4th gear and e-brake on for extra insurance. That will prevent it from turning. Works every time for me. If auto, you can try leaving it in gear. Just not sure if it will work.
  10. You didn't have to pull the heads to find a bent pushrod. Any idea how it happened?
  11. Successfully upgraded to Duraspark from the Pertronix I I was running. Wow, what a difference! Had I known the car would run so much better, I would have done it long ago. Also, anyone debating Pertronix vs. Duraspark, Duraspark all the way. Unlike the majority on here, I went with a Duraspark I module, with the red connector over the blue connector Duraspark II. George Pence over at the Pantera forums recommends the Duraspark I as its a more powerful and robust unit with automatic dwell adjustment. Anyone unfamiliar with him and his work should head over there and read his Sticky #3 post. http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/5650045562/m/319104265 A couple of things. First, you have to swap the green and orange wires at the connector if you are using the Painless Duraspark II harness. You also have to trim the tab on the 4 prong connector. Duraspark I also uses a lower impedance coil, 0.7 ohms, and no ballast resistance. My car has a factory tach and it didn't run well through the resistance wire. I also wanted to keep the tach functional, so I simply bypassed the resistance wire, running a 16 gauge wire from the tach to the coil. Tach works fine and the engine purrs like a kitten with the full 12v supply.
  12. Don, Hemi, Thanks for the info. I'm going to be using a red connector Duraspark I module, since that is what I have. I know I have to swap the green and orange wires and the coil is 0.7 ohms, lower resistance than what is needed for a Duraspark II conversion. Hopefully it all works out. If not, I can always get a blue connector Duraspark II module cheap enough. Thanks!
  13. Don, I take it you wired it up pretty much as you laid out in the second diagram here then? http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-distributor-and-ignition-info-thread?pid=110967#pid110967
  14. Ok, so what's the verdict using the factory tach with a Duraspark conversion? After reading this entire thread multiple times, Don65Stang made a mention of it working. But how did you wire it up? Did you just leave the resistance wire connected to coil +? I currently have a Pertronix I setup which works fine with factory tach and resistance wire to coil+. For various reasons, I want to make the change over to Duraspark. Thanks!
  15. Bf Goodrich is the only company manufacturing size 245 60 r14.
  16. The worst part is, nobody local has stock in wide 14 inch tires. So the car will be up on jack stands all weekend. Had planned to do some serious driving this 4th of July weekend. I should have it all fixed by Tuesday. 72HCODE, interesting your blowout was the same brand as mine. Glad you got your tranny job almost done.
  17. According to date code, April 2007. No evidence of dry rot. I was going about 70mph on the highway in traffic when I felt it go. It took me another minute or so to be able to cross over to the breakdown lane and slow to a stop. That extra minute of high speed travel I'm sure contributed to the tires demise.
  18. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-correct-thermostat?highlight=thermostat I would start here. Lots of good info in this very forum.
  19. The Cleveland's cooling system is a bit unconventional. I would check the thermostat and the block where the thermostat sits to make sure the brass ring is still present in the block. A correct Cleveland thermostat will have a plug at the end that slides into the middle of the brass ring in the block when open to ensure proper coolant flow. I'm guessing you have an incorrect Windsor thermostat, which is what most auto part shops will sell you. This can and will cause overheating issues, as coolant is not being sent through the block and heads as it would with a proper thermostat.
  20. I don't believe they were coated with anything aside from black paint. If they are in rough shape, you can purchase replacements. Just pull back the weatherstrip. They are riveted in from the factory. I drilled the old ones out and used stainless screws to secure the new ones.
  21. Hello, Here is the latest ... got the drive shaft back today and reinstalled it. FYI, the rear u-joint was replaced 500-600 miles ago. The front U-joint was found to be okay except that the grease fitting was broken so they replaced it and lubed both front and rear. It was out of balance, so they rebalanced it. Originally it had one small weight near the rear u-joint it now has the original one, another at the rear and another at the front. I reinstalled and torqued the 4 nuts that hold it in place. Took it on the road for a test ... feels better but not as good as I would like it. Will take it for a more extensive drive tomorrow. Some have commented that since I did not index it before I removed it I have a 50/50 chance of putting it back the way it came out. One person suggested to try it and if it doesn't feel right remove it and reinstall 180 degress opposite to see if that helps. Others have said that as long as the drive shaft is balanced it does not matter which way I installed it. Looking for some advice on this. Should I remove and reinstall or am I waisting my time ? Thanks Honestly, it shouldn't take you more than 15 minutes to jack up the car or drive it up on ramps, remove the driveshaft, rotate it 180, reinstall. We are talking about a real easy job here. It shouldn't cost you much in time and effort to get your answer.
  22. Yes and no... From what I understand- The ruling for the 2V ram air only did not go onto effect until about Jan 1971. So many 4V 1971 cars came factory equipped with ram air. Up until then (about Jan 1971) NO 2V cars were so equipped. ANd some early 72 Q codes received it as well (early production 72 models). After that date - of which I am not positive about - no 4V cars received rqam air from the factory. You forgot about the J code 429 SCJ cars. They all came with factory ram air in 1971. The C code 429 CJ's did not. Ray My 1971 M code was built in January of 1971 and came from the factory with Ram Air.
  23. Ray, Its been a couple years now, but the first thing I did was to paint it Ford Corporate Blue. The other thing on my car that was removed at some point was the factory AC. I'm guessing it was dumped at the time a previous owner changed the heater core, installing a non-AC core. All the lines, evap, compressor etc. were removed. I still have the original factory compressor however. After reading what another member (72Hcode?) did to install a factory AC system, it wouldn't be worth the trouble to restore it. Classic Auto Air might be an option down the road. But I'm fine without AC.
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