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Posts posted by trillizo_y_uno

  1. Anybody know a shop in the northeast that does floor pans in Mustangs. I’m doubting my ability to do it myself.


    Before you consider having the floor pans fixed, realize the reason the floor rusted out in the first place is due to your cowl.  The floor pan literally rusts from the inside out from all the water leaking onto to it over the years from the cowl.  Having said that, if you don't plan to garage your car and keep it out of the elements, your going to have the same issue down the road.  Basically, it doesn't make a lot of sense to fix the floor pans without fixing the cowl also.

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  2. I must also say, their customer service is great. I asked Ted (the owner) about acquiring and additional male cap so I could swap my plugs over. I originally ordered my distributor with a female cap. He sent me one free of charge.


    Jeff, would anything prevent you from simply removing the stock gear and pressing on your bronze gear?

  3. Thanks for the pic. Yeah that is considerably smaller than mine as the DUI units are based on the Chevy HEI with the coil built in, hence massive in size.


    They actually offer both types, HEI with the coil built in, or small cap utilizing an external coil.  I obviously went with the small cap/external coil option knowing I wanted to keep my Ram Air setup.

  4. More curious as to size as you mentioned it barely cleared the air cleaner etc. I am currently running a custom DUI unit from Performance Distributors which works great but looks hideous under my hood and restricts what I can run for an air cleaner.


    Here you go:



    I went with the female cap option, since it fit my current setup.  However by default it comes with a male cap.  Not sure if the male cap would provide any more or less clearance.  Either way, you can see I'm right up against it as far as space goes with the ram air cleaner.

  5. I got around to installing and the unit this weekend.  For reference, I have a 1971 Mach 1, 351C 4V, with a 4 speed toploader.  The installation was simple and straightforward.  Drop in the distributor, connect the vacuum line, then wire it up.  As far as wiring, there are only 3 wires to connect the harness (4 if you wire in a tach), negative & positive on the coil, ground, and the optional tach output.  Once you are good to go, crank up the engine and set timing to 10 degrees BTDC.


    Below is how I setup my curve:




    And here is the resulting table:




    I didn't tweak any of the values at all in the table above.  But as you can see, you can customize each field or section as needed.



    Something I noticed right away, I have a manual choke carb and no longer need to use it during a cold start.  As you can see by the table above, when RPMs drop below your idle range, timing is bumped up which then increases idle back up.  Also, the unit retards timing to 10 degrees BTDC during cranking, so starting is a breeze.  As far as driveability, I would say it is a noticeable improvement over my old Duraspark I setup.  The engine just feels like it wants to take off at all times, even applying minimal throttle.


    Eventually I'll play with the timing a bit to see what limits I can push.  But I'd like to cycle through the old gas that's been sitting in the tank all winter first.  I must say, it's nice to be able to make on the fly adjustments from your phone, without the need to pop the hood.  Especially for those folks that have AC, adjusting the timing can be a PITA.


    One other thing worth mentioning, the distributor *just* fits under a stock Ram Air setup.  I also have a 1/2 inch spacer under my carb, which is about all you can get away with having Ram Air.  Without the spacer, I would not have had enough clearance.


    Let me know if you have any questions.  I'll have more feedback once I get to test it out more.

  6. I wonder how many entry points does the timing table has?


    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk


    I actually downloaded the app via Google Play and played around with it a bit before making the decision to purchase.  They have an offline mode you can enter without connecting to the distributor itself.  This enables you to play around with the parameters and generate timing tables.  Once you generate the table, there are 144 entry points within the table which you can customize.

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  7. I've been running a Duraspark I (red) setup for several years. I have the distributor recurved with a 10L reluctor, softer springs, and 10 degrees of vacuum advance, 16 degrees of initial timing Honestly, the setup has been flawless and the engine runs great. But after debating the idea for a couple of months, I pulled the plug and purchased one of their distributors. There is a lot to like and the intrigue factor is pretty high. But at the end of the day it will be great to have precise timing adjustments at your fingertips, without fiddling around in the engine bay. I'm expecting this to be everything the Duraspark setup was, and a lot more. Plus, I won't miss the extra clutter the Duraspark box and Painless wiring harness add to the engine bay.


    I'll post more updates once I receive the unit, get it installed, and up and running.

  8. Hi To All,


    Thought i would jump in on this one. When you look at the seats set up for the 1,2,3 Mustangs back in those days, it was very crude and basic. For example, the seat travel forward and backwards did not really cater for tall guys, and as far as going all the way back, still did not provide enough leg room. The seat upright did not have any adjustment to it, which would have made a big difference to overall comfort. Tilt steering helped to some degree, but was not the full answer. Also, the seats did not offer any height or tilt adjustments to them. This would have helped as well to overall driving comfort. Electric/ power seats were available in the Cougar range as options i believe but not for 1,2,3 Mustangs. I don't know if the Cougar power seat tracks offered enough back slide travel, tilt travel, or up and down travel.


    In any case, i am not a tall guy, but in my '73 Convertible, i found the back slide travel not enough when fully set back as far as it could go. I got around this problem very successfully by buying a set of seat frame extensions that bolt on easily to my existing seat frame legs. Year one  Company in America sells them for a modest price. I installed them and they solved my leg room problem. These track extenders will  solve leg room issues mainly, but if you have height or seat upright, tilting forward or backward issues, you may have to upgrade your front seating to more modern seats that offer all these adjustments.


    Lastly, a few years ago, i invented and installed a footrest for our 1,2,3 Mustangs. This footrest has provided me with extra driving comfort and control, and has made a world of difference to my overall driving experience. I mentioned it here in this topic, because it may provide help in relation to finding a better seat setup experience. It certainly did for me. Here is a link to my old post on this subject.




    Here is a link to the extension brackets product for sale.




    Hope that helps.


    Greg. :)





    Hey Greg,




    Curious, how did the extension brackets mount up to the rear holes?  Or did you simply shim the rear to account for the space?  I just can't envision the brackets doing anything on the rear mounts, since they are perpendicular on the seat platform.

  9. ok, I have to maintain some sort of dignity here with such a basic question, but I have not had to add motor oil since I owned the car, and this is my first 351w.  its very different than my 545 and 306 in other cars.  i'm not familiar with oil caps on top of the valve covers, but I see nothing else that looks like an oil cap.  assuming it is, it comes off easily and is only a loose friction fit using gaskets.  and what the heck is the bung coming off the side?  sorry for such a basic question, its embarrassing 




    Just an observation, but that rotten rubber fuel line in the background is an accident waiting to happen.  Change that out ASAP before something bad happens.

  10. How about the one and only '71 Mustang with Black exterior and Red Vermillion Random Stripe interior? It looks like red plaid. That would be my Boss 351. I'm not the original owner, but I certainly wished it was something different.


    Black paint in and of itself is pretty rare, but even more so on a Boss 351.  The fact that it has Red Boss Decor is amazing.  I'd love to see some pictures of it.

  11. At least there was a choice for the interior back in the classic era.  Now you can get anything you like as long as it's black or gray.  Another one from back then that I think would sear the eyeballs is red exterior with a red interior.  lol


    Well, there were 5,502 people who ordered red/red (vermillion) for 1971.  It may be overkill, but certainly a logical color combo.

  12. Just for kicks, I was looking at outliers in Kevin Marti's Mustang by the Numbers book.  Specifically for odd color combos.




    For example, there were 12 people in 1971 who ordered Black with a Blue interior.  One of those in Boss Decor Cloth.  Bold!




    There were 2 people who ordered a 71 Mustang in Bright Red with a Green interior.  Both were fastbacks and 1 was the Mach 1 decor group.  Do you think they were fans of Christmas?




    I love Grabber Blue, the color of my Mach 1.  But the one person who bought a 71 fastback in Grabber Blue with a red interior?




    I wonder if any of these folks took delivery of the car and instantly regretted their decision.

  13. Hi All,


    Several threads out there on this topic, but didn’t come across one with a clear answer to these questions. When running a Pertronix 1 and a factory tachometer ...


    1. Does the tach require use of the red/green wire with resistance from the ignition to the coil for proper function? A 12V source will not work and/or will damage the tach? Or, does the voltage going to the coil not matter for tach function?


    2. Does the Flamethrower coil require a full 12V input to function as they suggest, or will it work off the voltage from the red/green wire?


    I currently have the P1 running off switched 12V power, and a stock coil using the red/green wire. I’m considering going to a Flamethrower coil, but need to understand how this would need connected for both the coil and the tach to function.




    I originally had the P1 and Flamethrower running through the tach/resistance/red green wire.  It worked fine and the tach functioned properly.  I've since switched to a Duraspark setup.  For this, I bypassed the resistance wire and wired the tach straight to the coil.  I've had it this way for almost 3 years and aside from my tach reading slightly higher RPMs, it hasn't fried it and has run perfectly fine (despite the increased voltage through the tach).


    I will say, the Duraspark setup for me was marked improvement over the P1.  The car runs and drives much better.


    Good luck!

  14. Did you guys ever consider the possibility that the spoiler was placed correctly and someone mounted the car backwards???


    I'm going to need some help holding on to the spoiler while I rotate the car. What size wrench would that be? I don't think they make 1/2-a-car sizes.


    This is not a 1 man DIY job. Too many things could go wrong.

  15. Did you guys ever consider the possibility that the spoiler was placed correctly and someone mounted the car backwards???




    So, are you proposing that they pick up the spoiler, turn the car around, and set the spoiler back down? Priceless. ::thumb::



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  16. Successfully upgraded to Duraspark from the Pertronix I I was running. Wow, what a difference! Had I known the car would run so much better, I would have done it long ago. Also, anyone debating Pertronix vs. Duraspark, Duraspark all the way.


    Unlike the majority on here, I went with a Duraspark I module, with the red connector over the blue connector Duraspark II. George Pence over at the Pantera forums recommends the Duraspark I as its a more powerful and robust unit with automatic dwell adjustment. Anyone unfamiliar with him and his work should head over there and read his Sticky #3 post.




    A couple of things. First, you have to swap the green and orange wires at the connector if you are using the Painless Duraspark II harness. You also have to trim the tab on the 4 prong connector.


    Duraspark I also uses a lower impedance coil, 0.7 ohms, and no ballast resistance. My car has a factory tach and it didn't run well through the resistance wire. I also wanted to keep the tach functional, so I simply bypassed the resistance wire, running a 16 gauge wire from the tach to the coil. Tach works fine and the engine purrs like a kitten with the full 12v supply.

  17. Don, Hemi,


    Thanks for the info. I'm going to be using a red connector Duraspark I module, since that is what I have. I know I have to swap the green and orange wires and the coil is 0.7 ohms, lower resistance than what is needed for a Duraspark II conversion. Hopefully it all works out. If not, I can always get a blue connector Duraspark II module cheap enough.



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