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trillizo_y_uno

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Posts posted by trillizo_y_uno

  1. Ok, so what's the verdict using the factory tach with a Duraspark conversion? After reading this entire thread multiple times, Don65Stang made a mention of it working. But how did you wire it up? Did you just leave the resistance wire connected to coil +?

     

    I currently have a Pertronix I setup which works fine with factory tach and resistance wire to coil+. For various reasons, I want to make the change over to Duraspark.

     

    Thanks!

  2. The worst part is, nobody local has stock in wide 14 inch tires. So the car will be up on jack stands all weekend. Had planned to do some serious driving this 4th of July weekend. I should have it all fixed by Tuesday.

     

    72HCODE, interesting your blowout was the same brand as mine. Glad you got your tranny job almost done.

  3. Can anybody provide a part number and/or link to the right vendor for the proper thermostat?

     

    Also, if someone had their engine gone through (as in, torn down, machined, and rebuilt) how would one go about obtaining a proper brass ring as a replacement (or does it come with the correct thermostat).

     

    I ask because I don't recall the brass ring in mine, and while it hasn't overheated (although has run a little warmer than I would've thought it should), I don't want to take any chances.

     

    Thanks in advance!

     

    http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-correct-thermostat?highlight=thermostat

     

    I would start here. Lots of good info in this very forum.

  4. The Cleveland's cooling system is a bit unconventional. I would check the thermostat and the block where the thermostat sits to make sure the brass ring is still present in the block. A correct Cleveland thermostat will have a plug at the end that slides into the middle of the brass ring in the block when open to ensure proper coolant flow. I'm guessing you have an incorrect Windsor thermostat, which is what most auto part shops will sell you. This can and will cause overheating issues, as coolant is not being sent through the block and heads as it would with a proper thermostat.

  5. I'm referring to the little metal clips that mount to the upper part of the door and are presumably used to apply pressure to the window glass (when it's up) to keep it sealed against the weatherstrip. They appear to have been coated with some kind of durable plastic material at one point, but mine are worn down to bare metal and make the window squeak loudly.

     

    I tried to apply some Plastikote rubberized coating on them and that did work briefly, but eventually tore off the clips because I think it was too tacky. Anyone have a solution for this?

     

    I don't believe they were coated with anything aside from black paint. If they are in rough shape, you can purchase replacements. Just pull back the weatherstrip. They are riveted in from the factory. I drilled the old ones out and used stainless screws to secure the new ones.

  6. Well done on the explanation!

     

    Hello,

     

    Here is the latest ... got the drive shaft back today and reinstalled it. FYI, the rear u-joint was replaced 500-600 miles ago. The front U-joint was found to be okay except that the grease fitting was broken so they replaced it and lubed both front and rear. It was out of balance, so they rebalanced it. Originally it had one small weight near the rear u-joint it now has the original one, another at the rear and another at the front.

     

    I reinstalled and torqued the 4 nuts that hold it in place. Took it on the road for a test ... feels better but not as good as I would like it. Will take it for a more extensive drive tomorrow. Some have commented that since I did not index it before I removed it I have a 50/50 chance of putting it back the way it came out. One person suggested to try it and if it doesn't feel right remove it and reinstall 180 degress opposite to see if that helps. Others have said that as long as the drive shaft is balanced it does not matter which way I installed it.

     

    Looking for some advice on this. Should I remove and reinstall or am I waisting my time ? Thanks

     

    Honestly, it shouldn't take you more than 15 minutes to jack up the car or drive it up on ramps, remove the driveshaft, rotate it 180, reinstall. We are talking about a real easy job here. It shouldn't cost you much in time and effort to get your answer.

  7. Believe it or not ram air was presented / certified on a 2V car not the 4V. Because of this, the government would only allow Ford to offer ram air on 2V cars. The one exception is the 1971 Boss 351. A note of interest, the decal on the outside of the ram air hood for a Boss reads "Ram Air" not 351 (or 429) Ram Air like on all other ram air cars.

     

    Mac

     

    Yes and no...

     

    From what I understand-

    The ruling for the 2V ram air only did not go onto effect until about Jan 1971. So many 4V 1971 cars came factory equipped with ram air. Up until then (about Jan 1971) NO 2V cars were so equipped. ANd some early 72 Q codes received it as well (early production 72 models). After that date - of which I am not positive about - no 4V cars received rqam air from the factory.

     

    You forgot about the J code 429 SCJ cars. They all came with factory ram air in 1971. The C code 429 CJ's did not.

     

    Ray

     

    My 1971 M code was built in January of 1971 and came from the factory with Ram Air.

  8. Ray,

     

    Its been a couple years now, but the first thing I did was to paint it Ford Corporate Blue.

     

    The other thing on my car that was removed at some point was the factory AC. I'm guessing it was dumped at the time a previous owner changed the heater core, installing a non-AC core. All the lines, evap, compressor etc. were removed. I still have the original factory compressor however. After reading what another member (72Hcode?) did to install a factory AC system, it wouldn't be worth the trouble to restore it. Classic Auto Air might be an option down the road. But I'm fine without AC.

  9. Good info, thanks guys.

     

    While my car is a factory Ram Air car, the plenum and cleaner were long gone when I got the car years back. I bought the repro set from Don at OMS and never added decals. Guess that is correct after all. That repro set from Don is real nice, btw. Anyone contemplating, no worries on the quality.

  10. I know the pictures aren't super detailed. But the floor and frame rail look to be rusty, but decent. To me it only looks like surface rust. I don't see any evidence of severe corrosion or holes. Again, hard to be sure with the pictures provided.

     

    The next big thing would be the motor obviously. If it turns over, that's a good sign.

     

    To me, that is a super car to be bidding on.

  11. ::welcome:: from San Diego. Nice looking ride. Has any one said to you your spoiler is on backwards?

     

    I was waiting for this one, haha.

     

    Ok, so about the spoiler. It is not the original spoiler. A previous owner removed the stock spoiler and put the current one on. When I got the car, the holes in the trunk lid for the original spoiler were still there.

     

    I'm not sure where the current spoiler is from. The pedestals are taller and wider, and the tilt is also adjustable.

     

    Regardless, I'm fine with the way it is. To each his own.

  12. Man, is that a time capsule, or what? That is truly a sight to behold. More pics!!!

     

    Don brings up an interesting point, the 3.50 ratio must have been mandatory on the 71 Q Code, which might explain why it's not the standard 3.25 with AC. Very interesting Marti report right there.

     

    FYI, my 71 M Code also has the tapped holes for a rev limiter. I don't think that's much of an issue or a big deal.

  13. Can't tell from the picture, but does it have hood locks? If it does, the Ram Air was more than likely from the factory. Only factory Ram Air cars came with hood locks. While the hood locks could have been added after the fact along with the Ram Air, people usually don't go through the trouble of cutting up their hood.

     

    I'd be all over that car, if I were you. A 4 speed M code is the next best thing to a 429 or a Boss, if you ask me. Do you have any better pictures you can share?

  14. That is very interesting, to say the least. I have never seen an AC car from the factory come with anything other than a 3.25. All Ford lit states that ratio as mandatory when AC was ordered. Certainly to keep RPMs lower to avoid damaging the compressor.

     

    So are you going to upload the report? This is exciting stuff here!

  15. Cool. Thanks for posting.

     

    I think 'RETAIL' means your car was ordered by the customer. It wasn't just received by the dealer as normal inventory from Ford.

    That would explain it being sold quickly after delivery too. Some cars sit on the lot for a while... :)

     

    Ray

     

    I never picked up on that, but you may be onto something. Especially with all the options, makes sense it was ordered by the customer that way.

  16. Welcome back to the forum. Your grabber blue M Code looks really nice, and a 4-speed too! Nice options and highly desirable. Am currently putting together a Grabber Blue 1971 Mach 1 J Code, SCJ, with the Detroit Locker; your machine looks like mine will be one day!

     

    Thanks!

     

    It's really a 20 footer. It was repainted at some point and its not perfect. The engine bay is anything but manicured. Heck, I even have mismatched rims and tires, haha! But, its in much better shape than when I bought it a few years back. Its a WIP. A nice driveable WIP.

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