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Duncan Mach72

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Everything posted by Duncan Mach72

  1. Here's my recent experience. My car is very similar, only drivetrain difference is I have 3.50:1 gears. I used to run a Ford M6250A341 cam which has 510/536 lift & 214/224 duration at 50thou. I had a Performer & a 3310 (750VS) Holley. This was really tame! It delivered easy driving bottom end, you could make a sharp turn in top gear & drive off normally! Not really what I wanted from a musclecar with a stick, I want to work it & be rewarded. After driving round with a 429 with similar cam (lame top end, 14s/98 quarter mile) I recently put the 351 back in with a better cam & manifold. I reasoned if 0.5" lift was tame but 0.6" was race spec then I wanted 0.55" & figured I wanted to go up on duration to about 235/245. I struck lucky as a guy near me was selling a brand new Lunati solid lifter cam (41107LUN Grind SP02-305) 0.55/0.559 237°/247°LSA 108. Quoted Rpm range is 3200 – 6800. Basically with a 351C 4V it appears that if its cammed for 5500 rpm you will have 350 hp & if it can make 6500 rpm you will have 450hp. That's how the heads seem to work. I also got a Performer Air Gap at a good price, I am still tuning & because I am using a "too big" carb (850DP). I have just blocked off the plenum divider cutout, which is a crutch for a small carb. Prior to this the air/fuel ratio was all over the place but even so when I gassed it at 3000 rpm it pulled really hard, made me grin & I have not been above 5000 rpm ish so far as I'm supposed to be running it in. Looking forward to the next test drive/tune session this weekend. Get a good cam, ditch the Performer, don't look back!
  2. You really need a more secure connection. As it is now, a bit of dirt or corrosion & you won't have a circuit. You really need to cut off the ring terminal, cut the original lead off a few inches back, splice both leads together to the one socket (or boot as you call it). Also, did you remove or bypass the pink resistance wire from the ignition switch? The Pertronix needs direct 12v feed I believe. You know on the original circuit the coil has a non-resistor feed from the solenoid when cranking and then the resistance feed when running? If you only have it connected to the 'run' position it won't spark while cranking. That one caught me out.
  3. Changed the oil on the recently rebuilt 351C from Amsoil Signature series 5w-30 to Fuchs Titan Race Pro S 10w-50. I'm a firm believer in modern synthetics after reading 540rat's oil test blog. However with the 5w-30 pressure was dropping right off when it got hot. The issue is that I am using a stock pump & have worn lifter bores. I should really have had them sleeved. I didn't put in the hv pump I have as previously it used to empty the sump into the valve covers. So I put the 10w-50 in as a temporary crutch. Went for a half hour cruise around & it's a lot better, lowest oil pressure I saw was 40psi at idle & low speed cruise. The longer cammed soild lifter 351C with aluminium flywheel drives very differently to the short cammed 429 I used to have in the car. Only gone to 3500 rpm so far, cam is good for 6500.
  4. I also have the V6 master cylinder with aftermarket proportioning valve like the Wilwood shown. With stock front discs & rear drums I have had to turn the prop valve all the way closed and depending on what tyres I have on the rear they still lock up first sometimes. Anyone got ideas on how to improve this?
  5. It has been below freezing & snowing most days this week in the UK. Today is a bit better, 4 degrees Celsius after a 1 degree start & some sleet. Snow is now melting. My mate came over from the post-industrial city of Sheffield to help me fire up my rebuilt, forged piston, solid lifter Cleveland motor. The garage was warm enough & we just pushed her backwards til the rear was out in the carport. It all went pretty well, fired right up, 70psi oil pressure at 2500rpm & cold, from stock Ford pump, around 60 when it warmed up. Ran her for about 15 mins total, between 2000 & 3000 rpm. Finally dropped down to 1500 & set timing. Going to run some more another day before installing lambda sensor, checking valve lash & setting idle. Looking forward to some dry warm weather soon to get her out for a test drive on the local bypass. The way it's been lately it could be quite a few weeks to go.
  6. Understand the stock look thing, fair enough. With alternator, 200A x 13.6v = 2720 Watts so you could install a 2kW sound system in there...maybe not what you want.
  7. Nice build but why the 200 amp alternator? - not criticizing, just asking! Also, I think you should ditch the mechanical fan & fit a pair of electrics, will gain a bit of performance & economy, plus a nicer, safer place to work when doing timing etc!
  8. The last time I had the heads off my Cleveland I used the gaskets without the heat passage hole, not realising they won't hold up. When I took it apart they were burned thru. This time I have cut pieces of aluminium bar, filed to fit & driven them into the heat passages on the intake side of the heads. I used a very small amount of sealer too. But then I scored a s/h RPM Air Gap to run instead of the Torker I was going to use so I needn't have bothered! Fire up estimated in 2-3 weeks.
  9. I've had EBC Yellow Stuff on my 72 for a year. They work really well, don't fade on repeated application & don't seem to produce much dust relatively speaking. I have pulled the car down from nearly 100mph numerous times with them - my local strip has an early turn off otherwise you go to the end & turn around. I always take the early turn which means braking quite hard. I was thinking of a Wilwood kit previously but I'm now happy with what I have got.
  10. Hi Finmach. thanks for advice. I've been researching C4 vs C6. It seems that C4 can be built to take lots of power but will require frequent clutch replacement. C6 can nowadays be cheaply upgraded with E4OD/4R100 6 pinion planetaries etc & torrigton bearings for less friction. There are some guys on the 460 forum running a BBF powered altered into the 7s with a nearly stock C6! I'd love to buy a lot of those parts from you but sadly my finances are fully committed for the next 6 months on a new blown methanol BBC for our altered and then we will have to replace the stock case powerglide too... Maybe in a few months I can afford to buy the front bumper from you.
  11. Something else to be aware of - with 17" rims the front wheel rim is right in line with the end of the upper A-arm - I had rubbing problems when the front end went light. Here in the UK 18" rims are a far better choice than 17s as there are almost no decent tyres for 17s that are not crazy low profile but there are many choices for 18s. However low profile tyres on leaf spring cars do give a harsh ride. In the rear I think 5.5" backspace would be optimum with 9 or 9.5" rims. You definitely don't want much more than 4.5" on the outside. So a 9" rim (10" overall width) with 5.5" backspace will have 4.5" on the outside. If you err on this side, you could always space it out a little if required to tailor the looks.
  12. Thanks for all the advice folks. At the moment I run the ordinary Hoosier Quick Times which I think are bias ply? I'm putting the original 351C back in for this season with a 0.55" lift solid lifter cam, 10:1 cr, forged flat tops & an Edelbrock Air Gap. I managed to get these parts together over the last 5 years at good prices which is useful as funds are a bit tight at the moment. Engine is in the car, I am swapping the toploader input this week. Be interesting to see how it goes. 385 build will have to wait til next winter.
  13. > Is that 2.24sec 60' with street tires or slicks? Embarrassingly on Hoosier Quick Times, 275/60/15. I started the season on 255/50/17 street tyres and had so little traction I had to baby it off the line. I got used to doing that over 3 meetings, then I got the QTs & did another 3 meetings. I was told I would not need to burnout the QTs. Wrong - wheel spin at shift into second cost me my first possible final round win. I've been afraid to really hit the clutch hard as I was afraid of twisting the small input shaft plus I was trying to keep a consistent launch. I'm putting a big input in the gearbox this winter so I hope to hit it harder & drop the times some.
  14. I have noticed that all of the fast cars in my class (10-12s) run Caltracs. Are the split leaf springs ok to drive on the road? Yes they work well just run a good adjustable rear shock like a QA1 . Then stiffen them up at the track and back em off for the street. Sounds good, if things work out financially in 2018 I might do that. My pb 60' is 2.24, I think it's an area where I can pick up quite a bit!
  15. Backfiring can be caused by the timing being too far retarded, inlet valve still open. I'm no mechanic, but I think I'm right. Also Duncan, would that be Santa Pod you're at? Been a loooong time since I was living in the UK and for all I know it's long gone but?? Geoff. Hi Geoff I used to live 10 miles from "the Pod" & spectated there for years. However I have recently "emigrated" to Yorkshire & my nearest track is York Raceway where I have been running in American Super Stock. I did get down to the Pod for the 'Dragstalgia' meet where a lot of us northerners joined in the southern Nostalgia Super Stock. It was quite funny, all the guys from the north got thru the first round! I also run a BBC comp altered team & we finished 2nd out of 34 entrants in our class - not bad in our first season! The Pod is going stronger & better than ever - easily the best strip in Europe. Competition there is intense. Right now they have torn up the asphalt to lay a brand new concrete track. We've been trying to raise money to save the York track & get it resurfaced - have just made the minimum target of £100,000. Dunc (apologies to OP for hijacking thread)
  16. Before we go any further, "detonation" is not back-firing through the carb. Detonation is usually caused by too much spark advance for the octane rating of the fuel or a weak mixture or overheating. It sounds 'pinkily pinkily' when you put your foot down. Back-firing thru the carb could well be a sign that the accelerator pump shot is not big enough (pump jet too small) or coming in too slow (pump cam too gradual). I recently experienced both these problems tuning a 'too big' carb for my engine. At first if I tried to 'wing' the throttle from idle in neutral there was an ear-splitting bang (no air cleaner) and the engine died immediately. This situation is easy to test so try it first. I did get my carb tuned, once I could drive it I used an AFR meter & it took 0.15 secs off my 1/4 mile time.
  17. I have noticed that all of the fast cars in my class (10-12s) run Caltracs. Are the split leaf springs ok to drive on the road?
  18. Hiya folks Next year I really need to replace the rear leafs on my 72 Mach1. Currently it has some cheapo replacement 4 leaf stock style units with an extra main leaf added by myself because they were saggy. These are very stiff although flattening out a bit now. I run bolt-on traction bars and Quick Times on the track. It's a genuine street/strip car which will be running 13s next year and probably 12s in 2019. I think some compliance in the rear could help it a bit on the road & strip. I'm guessing 4.5 leaf standard eyes would work but I'm open to suggestion. So any recommendations? Dunc
  19. I'd like to shed some weight, hood would be a good start as I'd like more room for ram air on taller manifolds so maybe get the 'Dominator' style. It's a shame they don't make the nicer 72 bumper in glass. I have searched before, most glass parts from Crites, Mustangs Plus etc look like they originate from US Body. Ally heads are a real possibility when I rebuild the big motor end of next year. I've decided to run a 351C + toploader in the 2018 season as it's ready to go.
  20. My buddy has been telling me I should replace my toploader with a C6 as it would be more consistent & quicker. I wasn't sure about the quicker part. I thought each gear change was maybe taking 2/10ths. So I extracted the audio from a video another mate did of me on my pb of 14.11. I extracted it with VLC then opened the mp3 file with Audacity. It clearly shows that each gear change is taking me 5/10ths! So that's 1.5 seconds right there. I don't know how long a C6 with a shift kit takes but I bet it's a lot quicker than me! I've been driving stick cars exclusively on the road for 30+ years so I thought I knew what I was doing. When my finances recover next year I'll look at getting a C6.
  21. I suspected I had an oil control issue at the top end of the strip on my 429 as I thought I heard the lifters getting noisy in the last 30 yards. However the stock oil pressure gauge never moved as it is slow to respond. I fitted an aftermarket gauge and I was right - I lose pressure at the top of 3rd right before I shift into 4th. It recovers then because the oil can drain back into the sump. The pressure then starts to dip again in 4th right before I cross the line at 98mph. So obviously the mechanical gauge is a lot better at telling you what is really going on. I have it in a pod on top of the dash with an AFR gauge & vacuum gauge for tuning.
  22. CheersTommy, that sounds like good advice. As a matter of interest, what rpm does your motor pull to?
  23. I have FPA headers installed. I recently subscribed to the porting info on 'Reincarnation'. I ported the C9VE heads about 25 years ago from info in the Ford Performance book by Pat Ganahl. They do need a little more work but they are nearly there. Given shipping expense etc It's probably best to do it myself or buy some FRPP SCJ heads or John Kaase P51. However I've crippled my own budget by becoming owner of a comp altered dragster! I already have bronze valve guides & new dual valve springs (Comp 924-16 I think) in stock. They would suit my proposed Comp 274XE cam. The engine really needs a rebuild for performance use as it has one odd replacement piston & is not properly balanced. I did think the Performer might be an issue, it's definitely a step up on the current build over the original small port Torker I was running. I think the current Torker may be best if I want to retain ram air otherwise I'd get a Perf Air Gap.
  24. I do know of a nitrous kit that is currently redundant & I may be able to buy it for a good price. But I race the Mach1 in a dial your own handicap class so I'd rather have it just on the motor. I don't want to start breaking stuff as I drive it 50 miles to the track & back.
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