detritusmaximus

Now that's nice! Cars okay, I guess. I use something similar that has a flat 2x10 top to put the jackstands on top of it. I figure the less the stands are extended, the more stable it is.

KROIL! Best stuff on earth... A word about working with jack stands...when you raise the car and take the wheels off, slide the wheels under the car ahead of the jack stands. If anything happens, the car lands on the tires, not you.

I have used both. To me it depends on where they are placed. I would not want a plastic one where it could end up against something really hot, like a motor or exhaust. The glass ones are okay, but the weak points are the potmetal center bolt, the end fittings and the rubber seals. Over tightening the threads can lead to leaks and the rubber seals can dry out and split (probably more so if it is placed over an engine). Really, the glass seems to be the most durable part. There are some glass bowl type remote filters that have none of these drawbacks and have brackets for hard mountin

I recommend you schedule an appointment with your cars urologist.

Go here... http://www.fordramair.com/new/products/shakers.htm

One of my favorite AMCs.... https://barnfinds.com/holy-grail-hornet-1971-amc-hornet-sc-360/

My personal favorite... Working on removing a cylinder head on an engine with headstuds, there was aluminum corrosion inside the headbolt hole. The head would slide up a little and stick, so I had to work it up and down. Finally it was free, so I grabbed it both hands and pulled. It came off...almost. My right hand was too close to the stud as the head came up and the web of skin between my outstretched thumb and forefinger was pulled into the headbolt hole. Once again the head was stuck. So was my hand. I had to yell for my boss to help free it...and me. The head had also wedged on

Just like cars, the older we get the more trips we make to the shop... Congratulations on a successful trip!

"Tears are cheaper than Band-Aids"

Sometimes it's like that. You lose interest or inspiration for awhile...like a phase., it may pass. I know every time I have gotten rid of something because I felt a lack of interest, I regretted it later. Although, I do know how much fun small two seaters are! Especially if the top goes down and it has a manual transmission. Some people will never know what it's like. Maybe it will come back, if not, have fun either way!

Is the 70 and up disc spindle beefier than the drum spindle? Aside from having the caliper mounting on it.

I believe the reason for the drum spindle is there is no caliper bracket on it, so much easier to mount a custom bracket. There are better quality rotors and pads out there, but with such big wheels, they would still look a little small.

For a parts car to be worth anything it's got to have parts that are worth something...to you or someone else. One thing to remember is that for any given model of car, generally whatever is wrong with yours will probably be wrong with a parts car. All the same parts wear out, rust out, get hit, etc. The only two variables are storage and region. Unless...you find a decent car (restored or original) that recently got damaged. Or a rusty car that sat in a garage for 35 years. I'd love to have the rust free Grande David has. I'm not hung up on "it's got to be a rare Mach or Boss

Okay, so it seems you have an additional type to consider which is the rebuilt compressors. So there is 'good' new, 'cheap' new, 'good' rebuilt, and 'cheap' rebuilt. And then which type of belt drive you want. Here is a Holley branded black Sanden. It says it is OEM Sanden in the listing. "Black SD508 is the compact high performer of the Holley compressors. It tolerates bursts of higher RPM better than other compressors and has a light weight clean design. This also is an OE manufactured compressor. (Sanden)" https://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-199-103-SD508-

I think those are the ones sold under the Sanden name, not 'Sanden-style'. I guess they have to be 'genuine' Sanden.