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Vehicle Info

  • My Car
    !973 Mach 1. White w/black stripes. Originally 3512V, now a ford racing parts 460 crate engine.


  • Location
    Suffolk, Va

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dohcsvt's Achievements


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  1. I meant to post this up awhile back. Called ATI and asked about this, got what I consider a half ass answer. I asked about the babbit bushing and was told that the stock bushing could damage the converter hub. I asked if this could cause converter failure (roll eyes) and was told yes...it could cause a leak. I do not consider a leak "converter failure" and also, I do not know how that would cause a leak when it does not affect the front seal... Anyway, that is their official stance, I do not know what to make of it, but my converter is and operating fine with a bronze bushing.
  2. Thanks for all of the feedback! I have owned this car since 1995 and am excited to get it to the track this spring!?
  3. I feel like such an idiot... face palm a million times over.... Operator error... car was in reverse!
  4. My 73 Mach won’t crank. Back ground info. Solenoid went bad, I... like a knuckle head misdiagnosed it as a bad ignition switch. Replace the ignition itch and it won’t start (1 week ago). Head down to oreillys and get a solenoid. Put it in, car starts, but it constant 12 volts at I terminal :@ (bad solenoid). Pull that solenoid off yesterday and go get a warranty replacement and all is good car starts, no constant 12 volts at I terminal. I start rewiring the rats nest that was my aftermarket gages and then want to check and make sure they work and the car won’t crank...GRRRR! Jump the solenoid and the car cranks fine. Take voltage reading at the S terminal and no 12 volts when trying to crank...is my new ignition switch bad I ask myself? So I Disconnect the ignition switch and connect the one I recently replaced and same symptoms. My question, is there something under the dash I may have messed with when I was working on my gages that may be causing this? I looked at the wiring diagram and it appears yellow wire from ignition switch straight to solenoid... nothing else in the circuit. Any insight?
  5. Yes, all connections are correct. Thanks for the feedback!??
  6. I think that I answered my own question. The image below gives a good example of the wires functions and it appears that I tapped into whatever circuit feeds the coil power. Sounds to me like the solenoid is jacked... what’s your thoughts?
  7. My solenoid crapped out on me, so I went and got a new one from orellys. Upon installation the last wire I connected was the yellow 90 degree connection as seen on the right below (not my car... I wish!). Anyway, when I connected that wire, my aftermarket solenoids for my electric fan and fuel pump were energized (as noticed by my fuel pump running). So I left that wire off finished installation and the car started and my fuel pump operated normally. Does anybody have any idea why this is happening? Is my new solenoid screwed up? I have currently just left it in so I can move the car around, but I think I need to remove it and go exchanges it. Thoughts?
  8. Hello, I just placed a new monster transmission in my 73 big block Mach. I used an ATI converter that I bought years ago, but set on my shelf awaiting its need. Anyway, I pull the tranny look at the instructions for the ATI converter and it notes that the bronze front pump bushing must be replaced with a babbitt one. This caused me to wonder why. I did not want to disassemble a brand new transmission to replace a bushing. I measured the torque converter hub against the stock unit and they were within a couple thousandths of each other. I went to other companies web sites (B&M and ATI) and read their instructions and found nothing about replacing this bushing. I made a conscious decision to install the converter with the bushing that came in the transmission. I have started the car and put about 30 miles on it and have experienced no issues. My question is does anyone on here know why ATI recommends this and no other companies do? I am going to call ATI this week and ask them directly, but I just figured I would posy up here for now and see if you guys knew anything? Thanks for any input.
  9. Hello all. I have a 73 Mach that I have transplanted a Ford Racing 460 crate engine into. It has a decent sized aluminum radiator with a nice 16" Zirgo fan. As long as I am rolling down the freeway all is well. However, once I come to a stop the temperature starts to creep up. I am interested in any set ups that are working VERY WELL on a big block swap. Thanks for any input. P.S. I cannot fit dual 16' fans on my set up or I already would have.
  10. Kilgon... I owe you big time! My headers look like new after using your fix. I had to use a 1” to 3/4” reducer as the one you described is almost 2.2” across... probably just differences in manufacturing. Anyway... again thank you so much1 saved me A LOT of money!!!
  11. I will. Without going into great detail, my current headers are pretty smashed on the front 2 pipes. I need new ones. Hate to spend that much coin, but at least I won’t smash the front pipes again.
  12. I contacted them today...$775 uncoated. An extra $250 for coating. Glad to hear the dimple is small. I too have aftermarket mounts.
  13. Thanks for the feedback! How much massaging was needed? Are they good quality? Do you remeber the cost... I don’t see a price on thier website. In the pic below, see the big gap between the front 2 and rear 2 pipes on each side... that’s where they wrap around and go under the K member
  14. Hi all. I am in the process of getting my 73 Mach 1 with swapped 460 back on the road. Currently have a pair of long tubes that wrap under the cross member but they have seen better days. I did some searching and see that there is a company called FPA (ford powertrain applications) that make a mid length header. I found some old threads on here, but not any that discussed install of these. Has anyone found a pair of headers that do not have to be run under the cross member to fit a big block very well? I hope there is a yes to this answer with first hand experience! THanks for looking!
  15. Hello, I am having an issue and hope the fix is easy, but who knows. I bought a freshly rebuilt 9” traction lock center section. I put it in the car with proper fluid and friction modifier. It worked great for a short period then just suddenly started spinning one wheel :huh: Is there anything besides the S spring breaking that would cause sudden loss of limited slip? Has anyone ever heard of one of thes springs breaking? Thanks for any help.
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