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judge

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Everything posted by judge

  1. They are 8x32 oval head Phillips. About 5/8" should be suitable. I bought 1-1/2" at home depot and I cut them to length.
  2. Thanks for posting that information David, that will help me. These are pictures of the late 80's lug nuts in use on the 73 wheels.
  3. I use a factory ford lug nut on my 73 aluminum wheels, it is a solid chrome one piece design. They were used in the 1988 time frame on Mustangs and Thunderbirds. I first started using ones found at a Mustang salvage yard. Then later found some nos ones. I'll post pictures tomorrow of them in use and one positioned next to an original. The 66188 gorilla nuts are use able if desperate. I've seen the correct profile nut used as factory equipment on some car trailers but haven't had any luck tracing down the manufacturer.
  4. There should be some set back, see Don65stang thread for vert idea pictures. You can see the set back.
  5. I'll search the local mustang wrecking yards. Haven't seen new ones.
  6. I secured them about a 1/4" lower than uppers with about 4 flat head self tapping screws. Had to create two half inch access holes to get the tip in there.
  7. Jeff and others, had mine rechromed, they came out perfect. They drill out all the corrosion and copper plate the pot metal, then they solder up the holes. All for about $100 each at royal silver Norfolk Virginia. Been on for three years still perfect.
  8. On my 71 they were originally run on the front. I looped the hoses.
  9. It's possible that when tightening the cables on the solenoid that the large terminal spins to make contact with another terminal within the solenoid. A back up wrench is recommended when securing the cables.
  10. Short of having an Allen wrench that big, I'd see if one of those threaded rod couplings would fit the female socket of the core plug. Then use it and the appropriate socket and breaker to unscrew the plug.
  11. I have it. I'll post a picture tomorrow or I could send one today to your email. If preferred send me your email address by PM.
  12. They call it the exploding buckle cause of the way they brake. Does your button have a two leaf crest or a star burst pattern.
  13. I checked the NPD book they are in there. They call them lower seals and they run about 40$, does both doors.
  14. Don't ignore the ignition coil and ignition condensor. I've seen both cause lack of power and cause intermit backfire
  15. That's because we didn't know what they were. I took a chance and ordered a set. But, sadly the suppliers haven't done much to promote them. They will stop the glass from rattling when you shut the door. They are a little tough to secure but worth it.
  16. I can tell from the circuit board that the first two from the left on inside edge of connector are your dash lights. Putting 12 volts on those two would power the dash lights. Tracing them out one at a time is how I would proceed.
  17. I would surely reach out to the National Capital Region Mustang Club. Many times capable members can perform the work or point you in the right direction.
  18. I've seen the stud spin in the transmission arms. I've welded them for local guys. They have to come out for inspection.
  19. Mike, if the lack of the space bums you, I've seen guys add a dot or dash in the appropriate place to clarify the meaning. Also seen guys run the other plates without stickers, but I think that's risky.
  20. The removal of the booster or master cylinder is probably required. It's been a few years since I did mine, but that and the items that you mentioned. I'd take out the instrument cluster to for ease.
  21. It will fall on you for sure after you lube it. That hood is too heavy for standard springs. The lack of lube is probably the only thing keeping the hood up. I'd do a joint at a time till you have the free movement you want.
  22. Eddyw. See his top picture. At the top end of the shock is a squared off U-bolt. Looks like a drawer handle. That goes in one hole and loops around and comes through the second hole. That leaves the two threaded ends sticking out, and the squared flat side in the frame rail. That's how the install starts. Two nuts go outside to retain the rubber retainer bracket. I've used a curved piece of wire to thread it through. String on the first leg helps also. Some times you can grab the string.
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