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Everything posted by judge

  1. There should be a black plastic insulated pad there. It should have some over spray of the gray trunk spatter along the trunk floor and wheel wells. The closest appearing product I've found to match the original is a fender cover material sold by " Snakeoyl" they sell it by the foot also.
  2. I use Body Shotz for duplicating the spray on sealers. I have gotten it from NPD. Body and paint suppliers have it also.
  3. That under car support is available in reproduction. Are you wanting an original?
  4. found it Eastwood online catalog "Plastex" . I think that's the correct spelling.
  5. The guys are right on about the stainless ones. I keep a new flimsey set for shows. I switch back to a driver set between shows.
  6. I fix these all the time. I use a product called"Plastix" available from Eastwood. The black kit allows for almost an undetectable repair. It is an Acrylic powder.
  7. My carburetor did that once. Tighten it to manifold.
  8. It looks to be in better condition than what most people start with. Glad it's not near me, don't think I could stop myself.
  9. I've done it several times with great success. To be effective, make sure you have enough of the colored disc. Like he said don't move on to the next grade disc until the scratch is not seen. It needs 5" hook and loop pad on the DA.
  10. You need rear bumper guards. The fasteners are hidden inside.
  11. I bought Ford service parts for my 65 back in 1983, they were not marked on the top edge like early models were on the original fenders. I did date stamp them to match production fenders. They did have stamped date codes on the fenders inner support near the door post. My 71 with original fenders and my 73 with original fenders both have the date stamp code on the top edge like every original Ford I've seen. They also have the inner support stamped. For about ten years 84-95 I was recording build dates, glass dates and metal part date codes on every Mustang that I could. The list included about a thousand or so cars. I stopped when the Internet could provide all the answers.
  12. The inspectors had the odd shaped hand punches, they would punch as the assembly passed their station. It's possible to decode your paper build sheet and at least one Mustang restoration book that has many of the codes.
  13. The most rear turn of the trim on the exterior sale panels must be accessed from the inside. It's pot metal also.
  14. I don't see anything that would prove that it's not. All the Sprint parts are there except for the wheels. He advertised as a Mach 1, which it is not.
  15. One of those hose remnants in the picture(on the left) has a inner rubber wrapped with metal wire mesh then a outer rubber covering The hose clamps are aftermarket, more likely the hoses have been replaced. Maybe the po used hydraulic hose stock.
  16. I bought PPG locally and removed their logo prior to installing. Had a Carlite stamp made by Office Depot. Installed it myself. After removing the old one, nothing is difficult.
  17. The zinc would be proper. And it would be Autolite for 71.
  18. Jeff, Mustang Masters out of Jacksonville FL usually has a set. They have a website.
  19. They are black, just like pulleys and and engine compartment.
  20. I have one in VA. Probably about $140 with shipping to California.
  21. I use the acrylic fingernail materials, you can build up the back for strength. You can wet and dust on powder as necessary to make the missing pieces. There is a name brand product called"Plastix" that works as well.
  22. Once you tighten the wheels lug nuts, the hub and drum will act as one.
  23. Interior trim CA for Black Knitted vinyl, correct but you don't see many.
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