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Everything posted by judge

  1. Drive down the road and give it throttle until it dies. Cut it off and coast to a stop. Pull the top of the carb to check fuel level. You will know for sure which direction to go in. I had a truck do this, tried all those normal trouble shooting things. Turns out that rubber trash in the bowl was blocking the jets. If would float out of the ports after resting. If you have no fuel, the other items mentioned are very reasonable reasons for failure.
  2. My standard gas pedal broke in the 77-78 time frame. It probably had 32,000 miles on it at the time. I bet I wasn't alone. Had to buy a new one from the local Ford dealer.
  3. No. I'd be looking for proper vacuum. I'd put a tee at the modulator and run a temporary vacuum line to a place where you can observe it while operating. Can you take the car to the rebuilder for adjustment.?
  4. When in a jamb, I have used the little clips that come with carb rebuild kits. Little silver thing made from spring wire. Never had one come off.
  5. The gasket should be marked "FRONT". As stated it will be the front and facing up, so you can read it while laying on the block. Some holes do get blocked in some applications.
  6. If you want to use the chrome bumper. You will have to get the arms and cross member used to support the bumber. Also different is the lower valance. And the point where the valance attaches to the hood latch support is different and will need slight modification. A generous part of the 71 valance will be exposed as the bumper will ride about 3" higher. So this may appear strange without lights down there (unless you go all 71 up front). I'm pointing these things out just so you'll have more info prior to choosing a direction.
  7. I checked a spare case this morning. After removing the round retainer clip, I spread the damper blade slightly about 1/32", then I rapped on the end of the damper rod a few times with a small hammer. It popped through the lone rear hole and moved about 3/8" inside the damper blade. I expect I could work it the rest of the way.
  8. Mine was in the sheet metal against the rod. It keeps the fold together and pinches the rod.
  9. The blend door shaft comes out next. Remove the round clip on the back carefully, it needs to go back on. Then there is a screw holding the shaft to the damper. Work the damper off the shaft. Then pull out the heater core.
  10. I run 3.56 in my 73 302 fmx SR. I think its just right. I don't drive it more that 45 miles to shows. It also has antigue tags anyway. That limits use anyway. I think it came with 2.73, and I drove it x country like that. Now it will jump off the line, never would before. I have a 65,298hp,4sp,3.50 rear, I think the 3.50 gear there is just right also. My buds with higher gears usually swap them out in a year because the rpms are just too high going down the road. None of them have overdrive.
  11. When I look at this picture it looks like there was a gasket missalligned. The dark surface around the port seems unusual. But maybe I'm missing something. Agree with Kit the screw hole is no big deal. Even without sealant it shouldn't make a difference.
  12. Don't have pictures yet. But the hood latches are different on 73s. The grill supports and standoffs are different also. The best direction would be to get the upright mount attached to the radiator support and everything to the plastic grill. Latch, standoffs, grill brackets(sometimes one,sometimes two) it get from a parts car.
  13. I've bought from NPD for years. Bought and installed probably 12 front to back lines on the 65-73 mustangs. They easily straighten from their shipping configuration, install as easy as possible. I would get the attachment kit as well. It can't get easier. On our years, you also have a fuel vapor return line running near the brakeline. Your fuel line is probably outboard near rocker. On a restoration it's just easier to do all three at once.
  14. I appears to me that someone applied something after several years of service. That ridge line that is about 5/8" away from the hat riser appears that it could be formed by something being behind it. Like as if there was a heavy dirt collection there when painted. Then maybe sometime later the dirt and most of the riser disappeared, leaving this ridge. All this from a thirty second evaluation. It seems possible. Never seen those colors in factory painted cowls. Looked again, missed putty in the first look. Had to enlarge pic. All appears to be aftermarket. But you should be pleased with conditions.
  15. If you do Google search for "homemade car lift" it shows many ideas on how to accomplish the task. Some may be expensive, like buying new wood. But sometimes guys have house builders for buds and scraps from a new house are just right.
  16. I have seen a bad condenser exhibit the same symptoms. Had intermittent coil problems at times, but the intermittent coil would cause loss of acceleration and just bog down. I'd try a new condenser go for a ride.
  17. I have found over the years that a 1/4" bubble outside equals about a quarter size cancer on the inside. A quarter size defect outside equals about a 4" cancer inside. 100% removal is recommended to prevent future growth.
  18. It looks like part of the selector. the inside shift lever reaches in under the valve body. There is a u shaped end on it. This looks like the base and side of the u bend.
  19. I think the key here is that it functions correctly in one position ( the accessory position) And does not function at all in the other(the run position). The others are correct, if you have center gauges-the engine temperature and oil pressure will be operating incorrectly and similar to the fuel gauge(under this bad switch scenario). If you have standard dash gauges, the fuel tank sensor is the only one feed by the regulator circuit.
  20. Jim, is that a guess? It doesn't make sense to me with his scenario. I'm leaning toward a bad ignition switch. Where as the regulator is properly feed while in the accessory position but the switch being defective on the post that feeds the regulator during the run position. Any thoughts guys.
  21. I'd measure the voltage at the motor to be sure, but I'd be leaning towarda bad switch. I believe they are easy to take apart. Might just need old grease cleaned out and new white grease put in.
  22. I've found when dealing with NPD on EQUAL items that they be higher than than cjpony. But NPD has this in stock. When I need it, I need it. I don't want to wait three months for a back order. Somehow they get it from Charlotte NC to Va coast overnight, at standard rate mind you. If they ship from Fla it takes another day. There has to be some value for that kind of service. I get your point on 2x pricing, I seen some of the items come from mid east. You just can't be assured of the same quantity. When I see vast differences in price, I look deeper to find out why. Sometimes there is no difference. I've used Mustang Market deluxe panels on two cars without issue. Probably got them at NPD.
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