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Everything posted by judge

  1. Welcome from eastern Va. I'm also a 73 Sportsroof owner. I've had mine for about 38 years.
  2. I have sanded them with the DA. Sand blasting or soda would work. I have repaired them with pink bondo. There are many specialty products out there on the market. But I have perfect results with the basic bondo. Flex additive is recommended by the paint suppliers when painting the bumpers and such but, I have had no problems skipping that additive. I just read the above note from JimNiki. I saw a two part mix at the paint shop for big chunks. I use the bondo on gouges up to 1/8".
  3. The plug with orange, black, and pink is the seat back latch circuit.
  4. Yes, I use a bead of black weatherstripping adhesive in retainer. When you pullout the old, you should have to clean the old adhesive from the shinny trim piece. Put it where the original was.
  5. I heard in Charlotte that the radio knobs have been reproduced. You could adapt one.
  6. It needs to be folded another 70 degrees or so to match the angle of the rocker panel. You can measure the existing panel from the brake fold to the rocker. There is a slight gap(1/16") after folded for the seam sealant.
  7. I've never been that concerned with that measurement. I adjust to the fenders, and adjust the fenders to the hood. I usually start with the doors and move forward to the fenders, then the hood. There may be some small adjustments to the hood and fenders for final fit.
  8. It can affect caster. But jacking up the back does also. The only sure way is to have the alignment checked.
  9. I have bought them at the local hardware store, and in a pinch I have used a slip style clip from a carburetor kit in its place.
  10. Mustang Masters in Jacksonville Fla. usually has one.
  11. The 73 paint is a very thinly applied charcoal grey. I thought it was black the first fifteen years of ownership. Once its out with all the trim off you can see the color change.
  12. The early GT Mustangs 65-67 time frame received the pin mounted letters. By the time the 71s were out, we had the stick on ones as the service replacement. It was good when the repo market made them.
  13. The standard 73 grills are painted. I believe the standard 71-72 grill is also painted. Never seen a nos deluxe grill painted. Stilman's Obsolete usually has a NOS unit in stock and can advise.
  14. While doing some last minute dusting at a show, I found that the cleaning wipes made by Armour all, the ones in the purple labeled jug were destroying the shifter curtains. Luckily, I carried extras. Still keep two in my prep bag. Haven't had a failure since realization. Been ten years without a failure.
  15. I have freed a frozen engine block that looked equal with Evaporust by soaking it. Other products I tried along the way were Kroll, an equal mix of atf/mineral spirits, oil and then kerosene. Had the Evaporust not worked I was moving on to electrolysis (check the web for this process). In my case, I wanted the dated block and Hipo caps. It soaked just short of two weeks.
  16. They are on rt 1. Just above 295 in Ashland. They have a Mustang salvage yard. And sell new parts also. I got a cross member there a few years ago. It had been loosely welded in as a replacement. It was just like nos. Found it in the yard wondering around.
  17. Reddrum, I notice you are from Virginia. Have you tried Old Dominion Mustang for parts.?
  18. I've seen the rims painted argent with the normal black areas. Then polished trim rings were added. It almost looks original.
  19. I have had to section out and replace the rusted sections in the past. Then grind flat and level with light filler. So far I have not had to exceed about 8"x 2". They come pretty good.
  20. Does someone have some tips on how he can do this without removing the glass?
  21. They are the same as used on 65-66 models. NPD. Cjpony and others.
  22. I use 36 grit paper on a straight line Hutchins sander. Bought thirty years ago, best investment I ever made. Ingersol Rand makes one also but I have not used theirs. After contouring, you prime lightly then skim coat to fill scratches. Then use da with 80 grit. If you see primer showing through you need to stop there. Don't sand into primer or you risk changing the contour. You can do this in this in a hour or less. If you want to do this without a sander. Contouring can be done with a 14-18 tooth hacksaw blade in semi-hard bondo. Holding blade on each end in upright position. Drag it across the bondo, it will level high spots. Extreme low spots may need additional fill. When you find metal in small areas, a slight bump with a pick hammer will depress it. It's a practice thing.
  23. My vert has the deluxe panels made by mustang market that are sold by most vendors. I have tmi upholstery. All in black. I see no differences in color.
  24. I'd simulate the bend without inserting. Then see if the bending is causing the cable to pull from the gear. I'm assuming you have the driver gear installed in the transmission and the driven gear is matching up.
  25. That's good information Paul. I'll remember that one. I would remove the top of the carb and put the eye on the fuel. I'm guessing there is none. That will direct the next steps. On the two barrel that's about 6 screws and the big air cleaner stud and choke linkage to remove the top. No fuel: line issue, filter, pickup or fuel pump and don't over look the needle and seat. If you have fuel carb blockages mentioned by others and rubber valves also mentioned. But you need to see if fuel is the bowl. Then move in one direction from there. This new fuel can cause some rubber to soften and create issues in carb and line connectors.
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