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judge

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Everything posted by judge

  1. If you get down to lower convertible pans (the ones that the torque plate bolts to) mine were ate up. I got 1965-70 pans and modified them to our specs. Mostly for the emergency brake cable routing purposes. Took about an hour to modify both. Came out great.
  2. +1 to Don, they are after market. Had them on a 69 Chevelle. Pull the rubber starting on the end, it peels back like a banana. The metal sections were pop riveted to the body.
  3. The only thing they have similar is wire. They are different in major ways.
  4. If you have a coupe or grande some of the rear most pieces have nuts from the inside.
  5. Looks like a healthy project. I finished an equal one on my 71 vert last year. I had to replace the inner front clip, left frame rail, both floors, quarters and cowl. Used two coupes for parts. The new metal was limited to floors and the lh rail. All doable part time. Good luck.
  6. Check web for McMaster Carr. They have a good selection that include unique characters and custom made ones as well.
  7. Better spending a few more hours now, than getting 200 more parts on the car and wishing you had done it earlier.
  8. I believe we are only talking convertibles on this issue. I have worked on a few early ones up to a 71. Normal flex (depending on jacking point) is about 1/4-3/8" total. That's from the point of most compressed with door open to the other extream most spread (also door open). The flex is concerning but when on wheel points it's always back to normal. The above measurements are approximates of what I've seen. And were with good floors and frame rails....... flex is reduced when jacking one side at a time. Paint impacts during compression should be considered, but don't seem to be an issue if I keep doors latched, as the latch and pin keep door from hitting the quarters.
  9. They don't learn. They do have a faster/slower adjustment on the inside. The 12 volts energizes a magnetic coil every couple minutes to wind the movement spring. The twelve volt circuit is completed by a small contact in the clock. So if the contact is not clean, the power can't energize the coil and wind the spring. Hope that helps.
  10. I'm voting on the fuel pump. I believe the leak is in a turbulent environment causing this spreading of debris. But keep in mind the lower etc cover seal is in the same environment. I would wrap the fuel pump with tissue and tape and retest. See if the covered tissue gets wet.
  11. The pads should be replaced with the top. I usually replace the header tack strip and the rear bow tack strip also.
  12. I've fixed several over the past thirty years. 80% had pitted contacts. Filing with an ignition file corrected most. The ones with burnt coils I skipped over. Rather easy to work on, just be gentle.
  13. All these questions are answered in the build manuals. They are a good investment.
  14. I checked the assembly manual. It does not specify a different air cleaner or a different hood seal for the convertible with ram air. I did notice that the diameter of the 73 fans were smaller than prior years.
  15. I believe you should have black shocks with a red or orange paint daub. Your build sheet would specify the color.
  16. Try Lucas power steering treatment. It's great at stopping noise and plugging small leaks.
  17. The convertible brackets have the flat ledge at the upper most section of the mount, its about a 1/2" wide flat area that's next to the first slopped section. As stated by others lowering the front raises the back. It does this by pivoting on the trans mount. I'll check assemble drawings for allowences or differences in the ram air section that make up this lowering.
  18. Some 71s used that hole in the fender to mount a plastic air diverter. The diverter was discontinued before 73 production. Yet the hole remained, but unused. The hood bumper is the only other attachment nearby.
  19. That is some interesting fabrication work there along the front aprons.
  20. Tool box drawer liner. Sheet rubber like roofers use. Truthfully I don't think it moves when tightened. But, I used the roof sheet EPDM rubber about 1/16" thick.
  21. I've found that I have had to get some of the assembly manuals in the 71-72 version to get all the details.73's seem to cover the changes.
  22. Mustang monthly did a tech article on identifying them. Check February 2013 issue.
  23. You could use 289 hipo headers and factory h pipe from a pre 68 Mustang. The under floor sections are so similar that you probably could install a whole 66 dual system.
  24. +1 to Auron73, the latch appears to be 66. They have (on the hood ) a centering pin guide and a heavy rod latch that is parallel to the radiator support. So the rod catches in those two hooks. Your upright support is from a 69-70 Mustang. They won't work on 71-73. They are easy to find. A well stocked Mustang yard on the east coast is Old Dominion Mustang. They also have an eBay store.
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