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judge

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Everything posted by judge

  1. My 73 SR came with four brown wheels and one black spare wheel. The body color was Medium Brown Metallic (Code"5H" I believe). It also came with stock full wheel covers. Only about 1/2" of the brown was visible with covers in place. Build date Oct72. Anybody else? Any other colors on your wheels.
  2. The factory disc brakes work just fine with factory 14" standard wheels and hub caps. They also work fine with repo 14" Magnum 500s. No issues at all.
  3. I had one like it in the mid 70s. If its made with standard threaded rod, which it appears to have. The threads will bind up under load. The one shown at the Cougar parts store appears to be made with the proper acme thread type rod. It will not bind up. They both have cons. In that you are compressing the spring where it sets. It picks the spring by using the lower saddle. So serviceing that is now difficult. The pro for this type, its safer in having the spring contained inside the tower. And great if only working on upper control arms.
  4. Well if you want to do it once and forever. You should get a new cowl. If it so bad that you can poke an awl through it, then you have bigger problems than surface rust. If holes are possible then you will never stop the rust growth unless you remove all of it. I've found that a 1/8" bubble on the outside usually means a quarter size cancer on the inside. From your picture it looks like rust across the front, if so the lower cowl will have the same rust.
  5. +1 Turtle5353. On the 80 gal IR. I run mine at 165 lbs then through 3/4" galvanized distribution system . Pressure reduced at some quick connects. Air stays cool and is near moisture free. Had a 30 gal craftsmen from 84 to 87 motors wouldn't last. No problems with IR since 87. I don't even give it a thought. I run skat blast. Hutchens straight line sanders. Pump cycles while still working. I run it like a body shop would. I would have been through several of those homeowner units. And oh yea. They rust through also. Get a ASME rated tank.
  6. Tim, I rechecked mine. It is an exact match of the pad color. It's not black as stated. I've handled so many black ones in the shop that I assumed to much. I believe avocado int cars matches their pad as well. The quarters and tail trim about two feet behind the quarters should be same color tone as doors. On standard interior doors, the door panel topper will match as well.
  7. When my top switch handle broke off ten years ago, I disassembled the switch and replaced the short metal peg with a section of an arc welding rod. Then I carefully drilled the black handle to allow a deep pocket for cementing. It works great and I have hit it several times without issue.
  8. Don't know about G2, but aerosal can by Plasti-kote is called cast finish gray, available at the national auto stores or Eastwood. Eastwood calls it spray gray.
  9. +1 to Austin vert. Good advice. The only patched ones I've seen that the owner isn't a shamed of were done by pros. The vinyl kits sold by parts houses are not worth the money or time. I have tried every new one for the last twenty years. Dr. Vinyl the franchise that I have seen service the Cadillac dealers used cars does undetectable work. I'd do that or wait for money for the new ones. We are very lucky now. We couldn't get repo parts for our big cars until the last ten years or so.
  10. I have a NOS ginger dash and it is closer to the color of your kick panels. I have also had my ginger interior car since it was 2 years old and I remember the color matched the NOS dash. Your dash color should be very similar to your kick panels. By the way most times you can look at the backs of the original parts, some times the surface material wraps around to where the sun don't shine. That won't be faded. I'm not sure what you mean by the crown.? Your mini console color appears correct. I use the two aerosol paints to mimick the variably shading of the door panels. Where I use it is on the interior quarters. They must be out and prepared. Then I paint with the darker color. While it's still very wet I mist the lighter color so they blend, I look for something that matches the door panels. There are many manufactures that supplied Ford, and many surface types. This lead to many different colors in the ginger cars.
  11. +1 to everyone that mentioned the oil embargo and safety regs. I remember that I could only buy gas every other day. And being limited to something like ten gallons. Had my 73 SR then. Bought a 65 6cyl to drive to work just to save money. They were selling used Cuda's with big blocks and 6packs for $1,500 and having trouble selling them. Now they sell at BJ for 100k easy. Dad bought a new Pinto then later a Mustang ll both for better fuel mileage. The Mustang ll went twice as far as my 73 on the dollar. Still paying for the car, I would have lost money had I sold it. It was cheaper to keep her.
  12. I use State Farm. Same company as my daily's. $10k agreed value runs about $120 yr. $20k coverage runs $225 yr, $40k coverage runs $340yr. Never had a claim on mine. But, I have repaired a club members car that also had State Farm. Repair cost @ 3,500. They were very easy to deal with. He had $26k agreed value.
  13. I'd have someone drive it while you follow. Observe all four wheels for hopping or shaking. Could be rust on drum at wheel mounting position. CB bent axle from previous accident.
  14. Neutral safety could be defective or misadjusted. It is one or the other. Is yours in the shifter housing or on the transmission?
  15. The jamb vent is the same from 70 mustang they just switched sides. That might help you locate one.
  16. Thanks Jeff. Its worth picking up spares. thanks again. Mark
  17. For those trying to remove or clean up their build sheets. Use wax and grease remover. Pep boys or any auto paint supplier will have it. Keep it wet if in the car. It will float loose. When out of the car I lay it flat in a 1" deep baking pan, I put about a 1/4" of the wax and grease remover in the pan. The asphalt base will float off in a few days work without hurting the paper or print.
  18. I use a spare sand blast gun that I got from harbor freight. I use the suction down the tank, hook up the air line and blow it into the gas tank. Once it starts flowing it keeps going. I can drain the tank in about two minutes.
  19. Yes, I drive the green vert to all the local cruise-ins. I and wife show both. The brown one I trailer if weather is questionable. Also have a 65 Mustang hipo vert GT silver blue. I show it often also. I know of about a dozen 71-73s in the local area. We will be at Charlotte, Carlisle and Savannah this year.
  20. It floats around. Put on after boot is mounted to floor. Slip it over the shifter and down to the second fold from the floor, it should be off the floor about 5/8-3/4". Then put the console over it. The console will touch the plate. The plate slides around under the console as you shift.
  21. +1 on both comments. You have 71. The 73 models will have a groove for the end flex hose that is stapled on. 71 had the end flared out which made it impossible to mount an end hose. The 73 flex hose turns down to the cold air intake duct that extends under the battery. The duct is made up of two plastic sections. Basically one is vertical and one horizontal.
  22. It fills the gap between the shifter boot and the console
  23. It's on your build sheet if you have found it. Looking at your picture it has to be CA. All the right letter portions are there. They had three different ones for 72. Two for the 2 bbl units. One for the 4bbl units.
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