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Everything posted by judge

  1. +1 To Paul of MO. I bought door shells of a new van to go on my van back in the 80s. They came from a burn out. I blasted them. Treated with rust converter(hate that stuff now)then later on a redo tried etching primer. Then High build primer and aycrilic enamel. I couldn't keep the rust and bubbles from coming back. It was such a waste of time. If the paint was burnt off, you have your work cut out for you. I'd replace every panel you can. You will be ahead. Por15 or powder coat was not popular then, but may offer some resistance.
  2. In 1975, at age 16, my first was a a 1973 Mustang Sports roof. 302, A/T. Dad wouldn't let me get the Z28. He said I would kill myself with it. A half hour later, he cosigned so I could buy the Mustang. I still have it today. [attachment=21110] My 73 Sportsroof
  3. Jeff, the part number for the clips is C8AB-63423B26-A. The generic part number from CarPak is 75-4187. Mark
  4. Welcome from Yorktown Va. [attachment=21041][attachment=21040]Pictures from Yorktown Va.
  5. Well it's not a Shelby. The only Shelby in our body style were the Mexican Shelby's of 1971. I'd say he wishes to play on the uninformed.
  6. I would be real careful with the grinder. The metal is thin and will distort quickly. Also, The grinders tend to cause edges that you have to build up with heavy primer or light filler. After messing around for thirty years or so with these cars, I have found that 80 on a good DA is the way to go. You will go through a roll on the car and running the vacuum for dust is a good idea.
  7. The 71s had stick on letters. Sportsroof; coupes and convertibles all. 72-73s had the script Mustang on the lid just like the one on the front fenders. The Mach 1s and Boss 351 were the exception. By the way, the letters are the same as the 65-66 GT Mustangs except that the early cars had pins and retaining clips instead of the double stick tape. No 71s had holes.
  8. Regarding the front fender portion of the decor group moldings. They were changed for the 73 model year so they would line up with the bottom edge of the new taller bumper. On the 71-72 models the fender to valance joint lined up to the lower edge of the bumper and so yhe molding went there. When purchasing the parts. The early years have a bent edge that fits into the fender/valance connection. The 73 front section is surface mounted like the rest of the molding kit.
  9. It would be good to know if anything works. Lights?radio?turn signals? Or just won't start. If it's won't start and all the other things work? If so use proceeding suggestion of checking for power on I.
  10. What I believe you have is a homemade trunk light assembly. The terminal strip is generic, available at Radio Shack in the 70s. A contact switch is being used against the torsion rods to activate the lamp holder. It has an indexed socket for the lamps side pins. And also visible is the center lamp contact. Good luck.
  11. I had the same problem when I put my vert together this summer. I eventually picked up another seal at Carlisle when I noticed it was much softer. The second one was from Cjpony. I was able to shut it after that. The first seal, though it was new, was twice as firm.
  12. There was a running change at some point when the dimples were discontinued. I've seen original pictures of a 71 and it has them. I'd check date codes on your quarters if you want to be sure. It seems possible to recieve one of each. But, from your pictures it appears that the left side quarter has some extra filler that is not present on the right side. I'm thinking the right side is original.
  13. Great pictures guys. Jeff if your metal piece is missing, most likely you are missing the rubber ends that bolt into the quarters. Might want to search them together. Also the bumper brackets are deeper on a 73. You may need them also.
  14. It's called a Radiator Air Deflector seal. NPD has it, part number is 8349-1A, 32.95. Look in the radiator support section. Fits 71-73 only.
  15. The metal strip under the rear bumber is a 73 only part. The 73 bumper set about an inch further from the tailight panel. (By having longer bumper brackets. The holes in the quarter are 73 only, they were to hold rubber filler cups, to make up for the added clearance mentioned above. All this was for government mandated crash requirements. On to the front, there is a metal piece behind the bumper. The bumper arms hold this, then the bumper mounts to it.
  16. I found another build sheet, It is a 71 H code Grande, the BS says it is a 5A alternator code. Just like the 73 H code bs I have. I checked the assembly manuals, they show 7 different alternators were possible.
  17. The 71-72 Mach 1 stripes will work on the side of the vert. But not the back. The trunk lids have different dimensions and the trunk stripe is too short. Also, I believe the lock cylinder doesn't line up right.
  18. I have a repo spoiler on my 71 vert, I've heard they are lighter. I looked tonight, it only has one spring. I think I did have to adjust it to the max adjustment when installed. Been on two years. No sign of weakening.
  19. I just looked on eBay motors. There is a whole assembly there with good pictures. Listed as 1971 mustang heater box core. I believe vendor was "steed". Appears to be about 6" by 3" radiused on each end. Its black and about 1-1/4" thick, near as I could tell. I was thinking one of those Maguire's foam pads could be cut down to fit. If too thick it will compress. I looked again at ebay. The thickness looks more like 3/4” or 5/8. And it appears to be made from a HVAC product called Armaflex, the material was used as an insulation material. I use it in my tool chest for cut to fit nut driver organizing. Good luck.
  20. Very nice will e. I bought a 66 from a guy about ten years back. The plate was missing when I got it. When I inquired about it, the seller said it was missing when he bought it. It was his daily for two years. I have not seen any fatigue cracks from its absence. As stated by others. The early models had upper and lower reinforcements in the convertible body. I'm thinking you should fabricate an extended plate that will clear your GV and future exhaust. Twisting flex is what I believe to be the issue.
  21. 65-68 seats bolt down differently than 71-73s, so keep that in mind it thinking about the modification.
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