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Everything posted by judge

  1. I've seen some on Norfolk VA Craigslist
  2. The lower trim is installed at the break line
  3. You should ask the guys at Old Dominion. They fix cars for sale and have a local shop that does their body work. There's a big Mustang show this weekend there. About two miles from the store. I would think it will cost about $2500-$3500 for the metal work and reassembly. It's as involved as doing a complete floor.
  4. I have an excellent one for sale in VA. I paid $200, you can get it for that.
  5. You can not confuse the convertible panels with others. There's a clear pocket in the top edge. The pockets are about 4" wide, starting at the trailing edge of the window the top edge turns in 4 inches, then turns rearward for about 10".
  6. This is the section of the diagram that covers your parts. Yhe ambient air sensors are installed in the front of the door post (almost level with the antenna cable hole), I don't believe that they are visible with fenders installed.
  7. Picked up a few catalogs at Indianapolis show, they indeed have added many items. We are lucky to have the trims available, I set mine with window weld. They are set for life.
  8. NPD or cjpony will have something close enough to work.
  9. I've read, that the new painters were assigned to paint the backside of the body parts. It's not unusual to see heavy runs on the backside. Going concourse with it Here are some close-ups of the quality control on the primer
  10. I'm skeptical about the diagnosis. I'd get another opinion. I think that you would have some really rough engine operations prior to the failure. If anything would be turning, it would be the crankshaft. The cam and distributor would be still be if the chain was broken.
  11. There is a Mustang junkyard on I 95 just above Richmond VA. Old Dominion Mustang. They will have the top. You should get it cut into the trunk and wheelhouses. And six inches down on the quarters. No need to weld between the trunk and window.
  12. There was a firm piece of cardboard under the carpet at the sill. Runs full length of the sill area. I remade mine from 16 guage galvanized metal. It keeps the aluminum sill plates from pushing carpet into wire trough.
  13. There is no benefit to what has been done. If anything it's a loss. The balance would be different rod to rod. Although the difference would probably not make any difference on a street engine. The surfaces appear dark, have they run without oil.
  14. The screws actually go into the transmission tunnel, they are about 1-1/4" long self threading bit tip type. You have to be real careful not to snag the carpet.
  15. It looks like someone added extra attachment places to your car. Mount it to the fenders first and see what lines up. Should only have one or two bolts at the bottom of the hood latch support members.
  16. You can use wax and grease remover to release the build sheet. It's slow, don't rush it. It will float away
  17. I've parted a couple, don't have a full set of trim but probably 85 percent of it. I'll sell individual pieces only.
  18. judge

    door panels

    If it's not cracked, only dented you are probably looking at losing a point or two for condition. Wrong color interior is s a severe deduction, probably 25 points. For concourse it should appear as the dealer delivered it. Your door data tag dictates your colors.
  19. Like Mike said, it is hard to distinguish colors from a picture, but look at Silver Blue from 65-66 time frame. I believe that there is a Smoke Grey (same period) that seems to appear anywhere from silver to light blue depending on the sky and background.
  20. I think the little black box. Meaning the rectangle thing that's about 5/8" by 1-1/8" is the accessory circuit breaker. Kinda hard to tell from the back, but it appears to be crimped on the sides. If the other side has two studs on it, it's a breaker.
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