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Everything posted by judge

  1. They are a direct replacement for the chrome bumper. Both use the same inner structure, bolts and brackets.
  2. Clean it out real good, as a filler use the metal filled body putty. Evercoat makes one called "metal to metal". It is a month sag filler. It's filled with ground aluminum.
  3. I've installed the upholstery on probably a dozen Mustangs. The 65-66 are a piece of cake compared to the high back versions. The early cars are ideal for developing your skills. Buy the good pliers as stated by others. Also strongly consider a 8" pair of bolt cutters for cutting the hog rings loose. A 8" diagonal cut pliers are ideal for removing the rings, that's twisting them out not so fun using them for cutting. After cutting two hundred of them, you will wish you hadn't. Get the hog rings from the Mustang parts guy. The hardware store ones are heavier and as above your hands will appreciated this. The seat tracks have two springs and linkages that are often reinstalled wrong. Either do one seat at a time or be sure to note the hook up positions.
  4. +1 on orange/black, correct. The breakers are the same as convertible.
  5. I didn't notice what ignition system you are running. But I use OEM style components. I've had the ignition condenser fail and result I'm the same symptoms. BTW replace the points also, condenser failure causes them to pit badly. Filing the points can get you about ten minutes of run time if you're stranded.
  6. Pintos have the same rubber. Bought two nos complete just to get the rubbers.
  7. I used the standard springs on my NASA hood for 12 years, I didn't know any better. It had the block off plates so I'm sure it was lighter by 5-10 pounds than a ducted hood. Anyway it worked good until I put lithium grease on the hinges, then it wouldn't stay up more than 10 seconds. I proped it up if I couldn't hold it. When restoring it, I put on a standard hood and my problem ceased.
  8. You don't have to use a sealer with the block off plates. I've never had much more than a drop of water get through. It's just not an issue.
  9. I would cover the outside with blue tape, cut it flush at all edges. When you peal it off, you have a perfect pattern to cut your metal pieces. I would probably use a grinder or cut off wheel to cut away everything that is outside the pattern. ....... Another way, you could scribe the metal then cut to the line. but it's easy to go over the line. I think the tape will work better.
  10. I use binder clips to make spring steel parts. They are cheep and work well. You can hammer them flat to get a 4"x2" piece. You can make most needed items from it.
  11. The braces from the shock towers to firewall, the lower pan in the headlight bucket, the angled brackets attaching the headlight bucket to the radiator support, the upper radiator support brackets and the hood latch bracket (which extends from the top two bolts on the rad support to the bottom of the rad support)(only the rearmost portion). All these should be the dark slop grey. By the way the hood hinges, shock tower brackets and the hood latch, should he natural and not painted. Phospho will protect the bare metal. The hood latch and hinges were also treated with clean oil. Per MCA if that matters. You can get details from Ford assembly manuals.
  12. If you have shaved or surfaced the heads? An equally sized spacer needs to be placed under the rocker pedestal to make up the difference and permit valve closure. Just something to think about.
  13. [attachment=20463]Here is the other side of the spring removal tool.
  14. I built this tool to remove the springs from my hood hinges. It can be used while hinges remain in place. Just prop open the hood. I've used it many time.[attachment=20462]
  15. If you haven't blasted yet, I've been told it weakens them and may not hold hood up. I usually wire brush them then phospho coat. I may have a single flat. I'll look tomorrow.
  16. I use lower door skins from Mill supply. Still some work but the joint is about 2" above the brake so it's easy to block level it.
  17. Finding a mounting point was difficult. I was able to get two flat head screws in it. I think I remember using a 6" Philips head driver on my drill. From what I remember, there were only two clear places to get the driver in. I'm pretty sure the glass was out at the time, but try it without removing it. The two screws hold it just fine and there is no glass contact when closing the door.
  18. When I replaced the door fuzzies on my 73 SR. I found that the glass rattles when I shut the door if the window is down. Then I looked for the NOS wide ones for several years. I found a pair at Carlisle in 09, but the seller wanted them more than I did 200$. Last year, while restoring my 71 vert, I tried something out of the box. I installed a second set of outer fuzzies (the ones without metal trim) just below the normal mounting position. When installed, they look just like the wide fuzzies. And when I put the glass in there is never any rattle or metal to glass impact.
  19. The outer oval is nearly blocked by the headlight body support that uses the welded nut above and below the oval hole. Be sure to leave them intact. I believe the larger hole satisfied the battery cooling.
  20. Don was dead on target, I've done it both ways. The universals floors are alot of work and results are fair. You should shop for the floors at are specific to 71-73. All the universal floors that advertise fitting 56-73 are incorrect for the later years. When that was all we could get, you just made it work. Most suppliers will have the 71-73 style. BTW its not difficult to adapt the lower convertible reinforcement pans made for 65-70 to fit a 71-73. It can be undetectable with a few hours work.
  21. I stand corrected. I just checked my 73 (BD10/72) it also has them.
  22. They are only used on 71and 72. The 73 grill is shaped differently and they were not required. They cover the access holes for the fender leading edge trim.
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