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judge

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Posts posted by judge

  1. I've installed the upholstery on probably a dozen Mustangs. The 65-66 are a piece of cake compared to the high back versions. The early cars are ideal for developing your skills. Buy the good pliers as stated by others. Also strongly consider a 8" pair of bolt cutters for cutting the hog rings loose. A 8" diagonal cut pliers are ideal for removing the rings, that's twisting them out not so fun using them for cutting. After cutting two hundred of them, you will wish you hadn't. Get the hog rings from the Mustang parts guy. The hardware store ones are heavier and as above your hands will appreciated this. The seat tracks have two springs and linkages that are often reinstalled wrong. Either do one seat at a time or be sure to note the hook up positions.

  2. I used the standard springs on my NASA hood for 12 years, I didn't know any better. It had the block off plates so I'm sure it was lighter by 5-10 pounds than a ducted hood. Anyway it worked good until I put lithium grease on the hinges, then it wouldn't stay up more than 10 seconds. I proped it up if I couldn't hold it. When restoring it, I put on a standard hood and my problem ceased.

  3. I would cover the outside with blue tape, cut it flush at all edges. When you peal it off, you have a perfect pattern to cut your metal pieces. I would probably use a grinder or cut off wheel to cut away everything that is outside the pattern. ....... Another way, you could scribe the metal then cut to the line. but it's easy to go over the line. I think the tape will work better.

  4. The braces from the shock towers to firewall, the lower pan in the headlight bucket, the angled brackets attaching the headlight bucket to the radiator support, the upper radiator support brackets and the hood latch bracket (which extends from the top two bolts on the rad support to the bottom of the rad support)(only the rearmost portion). All these should be the dark slop grey. By the way the hood hinges, shock tower brackets and the hood latch, should he natural and not painted. Phospho will protect the bare metal. The hood latch and hinges were also treated with clean oil. Per MCA if that matters. You can get details from Ford assembly manuals.

  5. Finding a mounting point was difficult. I was able to get two flat head screws in it. I think I remember using a 6" Philips head driver on my drill. From what I remember, there were only two clear places to get the driver in. I'm pretty sure the glass was out at the time, but try it without removing it. The two screws hold it just fine and there is no glass contact when closing the door.

  6. When I replaced the door fuzzies on my 73 SR. I found that the glass rattles when I shut the door if the window is down. Then I looked for the NOS wide ones for several years. I found a pair at Carlisle in 09, but the seller wanted them more than I did 200$. Last year, while restoring my 71 vert, I tried something out of the box. I installed a second set of outer fuzzies (the ones without metal trim) just below the normal mounting position. When installed, they look just like the wide fuzzies. And when I put the glass in there is never any rattle or metal to glass impact.

  7. Don was dead on target, I've done it both ways. The universals floors are alot of work and results are fair. You should shop for the floors at are specific to 71-73. All the universal floors that advertise fitting 56-73 are incorrect for the later years. When that was all we could get, you just made it work. Most suppliers will have the 71-73 style. BTW its not difficult to adapt the lower convertible reinforcement pans made for 65-70 to fit a 71-73. It can be undetectable with a few hours work.

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