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Everything posted by judge

  1. It helps if you Jack up car from the lower control arm. Pushing the spring seat up flattens the seat and gives you better access to the bolts.
  2. Assuming that you have a fastback (sportsroof), what year. You can use your inner quarter panels to line them up in some cases
  3. Well said David. Each judge may view it differently, lighting could play a roll also. Keep in mind Fords attempt was to make these parts as near black as feasible. Just look at as many untouched original parts as possible. Junkyard research is valuable knowledge, take advantage of that when possible.
  4. The start up ignition feed is from the solenoid, the running ignition feed is from the ignition switch. I believe that the circuit runs through a voltage reducing resistor wire. What year do you have, and does it have a factory tach?
  5. The metal bracket on the brake support? The green plug separates into two pieces. The engine side harness goes out through the front ( only about 1-1/2' passes through the firewall hole) the green plug being the first thing though.
  6. They appear to be too narrow. I'll try to get a picture and dimensions.
  7. Did they come from factory with green belts. If so post pictures.
  8. Not sure about troubleshooting the msd, buy I typically use a timing light to see if my coil is energized I clamp the center primary on the cap. Also check voltage at the coil primary.
  9. Maybe that is possible, I believe that grasping piece is different side to side. I believe that they have different casting numbers, so that leads me to think that fixed portion is different also.
  10. Jeff is the part you are referring to in this picture? I have one available. PM if someone needs I t.
  11. Welcome from Virginia. There are a couple local Mustang Clubs in your area. Mustang Club of Tidewater and Southeastern Virginia Mustang Club. Both should have Facebook accounts.
  12. I painted mine with krylon, then cleared it with Chroma Clear. It's held up fine since 2000.
  13. I bought one in 82' from the local dealer. With my 40% discount it was $125.00. oh what days!
  14. I use acrylic fingernail materials to patch them. You can buy brand name stuff from Eastwood. It's called Plastix or something like that.
  15. I did those about 4 years ago, I remember having to heat up the panel skin and stretch it to match the cups. I back filled the gap with epoxy to retain the shape.
  16. There not for rubbing. They were for air direction and noise reduction.
  17. You have to have fender off. It's easy to understand when you have access to the back side of the fender.
  18. Yes, on a white top, I have used gutter sealant. It's usually only available in the metal gutter section of your home depot or Lowes store. It's in a aluminum squeeze tube. Very nasty if you get it on you. I think that it's urethane.
  19. I'll have one in Virginia if one of the parts dealers don't have one. I take it that you need the complete bottom seat frame? PM me.
  20. The bumper brackets are definitely 73. On the fenders the difference can be determined by drawing a horizontal line forward of the fender marker lights. A 73 fenders have a taller brow molding and stop about level with the top of the marker light. On the 71-72 the brow trim stops about a inch and a quarter higher. From your pictures, I believe the fenders are correct. The valance appears to have turnsignal mounts in them, also correct for 71-72. The hood latch is correct. I believe only the bumper brackets are incorrect. You can probably sell them for 150 if perfect. Your missing parts are available. I have all from a recently parted 71. PM me if interested.
  21. I have for sale two NOS headlight doors. Both are left side (drivers side) One is painted, one chrome. $125 each.
  22. I have one, was trying to give the vendors an opportunity to hook you up. I'm in VA.
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